I think you nailed it, Ric, gotta "match the hatch" as Theodore Gordon would say. I love casting with Linotype and a good, certified Lyman #2, but those pretty bullets don't shoot worth a darn if the alloy doesn't match the situation at hand. If you build your load around the alloy, well, the CBA records speak for themselves.
We all get a little myopic about these things, I tend to see how close to jacketed performance I can get with all of my rifles, it's just something that interests me and drives me because it is so challenging and in most instances the limiting factors not very well agreed upon nor understood. However, I don't compete in sanctioned matches where precision and repeatability are the name of the game...and velocity or terminal performance are really quite moot points. My goals are shoot a lot for cheap and make a superior hunting bullet, and while striving for good groups is always part of the process for me, my standards are not anywhere near competition level and naturally my choice of alloy will be different.
Three parts pure lead and one part true Linotype will give an alloy consisting of 3% antimony and 1% tin with not much else in it. Pretty close to clip-on wheel weight metal, actually. There is just enough tin to make it cast really well and also to form 2% Sb/Sn matrix, leaving 2% "free" antimony. This three-component alloy will heat treat well, cast well, and serve very well from anything from the mildest load up to at least 40K psi if heat treated. It is also very good for hunting bullets pushed to over 2K fps in heat-treated form, and does pretty well in the expansion department with cup point bullet designs. Add another one to two percent tin to change the properties of the alloy from a shearing, linear-plane material to a more tough, malleable, cohesive material.