1/4" torque wrench

[Intheshop]

Got a 1/2" old,very nice digi-torque. The kind where the handle is sleeved and marked. Turning it "in" increases torque. Also have another,old 3/8" beam style that is very nice.

What's needed is a 1/4" drive,not for vehicles and machines but for rifle action and scope rings/bases.

Besides the two versions above which are VERY well represented on evilbay,there's also a direct reading "dial" type. Snap-On makes one I'm looking at. But they aren't the only co. making this style,but in general ARE harder to find.Just feel like the dial type is going to be easier? May take awhile to find one,will keep you all posted.

 

[popper]

Calibrated in inch-pounds? Dial type should be easier to read but maybe dial gets in the way? Used the old Mil. click type, never thought they were extremely accurate but lots easier to use. Mine is the old scale type, accurate but not that easy to use/read, a 200# ft 3/4" drive - always works but getting a little rusty now. Shop instructor taught the torque & verify method to get good reading, even with the clickers.

 

[Ian]

Click sux IMO.

I use a Matco beam-type 50 in/lb wrench and reduce it to 1/4" when needed. Most of my $$ workhorse Torx and Allen bits are staked into 3/8" drive tools so no adapter required for scope rings/bases/action screws. I personally prefer a beam for a couple of reasons: Minimal moving parts to futz up or suffer percussive decalibration, and the feel. You can't beat the feel of sneaking up on a spec with a beamer wrench.

 

[Intheshop]

Yeah the click type work for heavier loads because for me..... you never really know how much it went over,once they "click". So if it's 70' #'s it's one thing to be over a lb or two. But get down into lower ranges and that represents a larger percentage.

The beam type 1/4" are very $ reasonable. Heck,used Snap-On dial type isn't "that" expensive. Reckon folks just aren't dropping $ on the 1/4" size compared to the larger brethren,supply demand?

 

[S Mac]

You need to pay attention to the range, many 1/4 inch start at 30 in lbs, maybe more than you need.

 

[Intheshop]

Two distinct model S-O's..... 0-30,and 0-75 inches.

One pretty durn nice 0-75 went,1 bid @49.95 free shipping a cpl days ago. Don't see any cheap dial types right now. I'll watch for a month or so and then if no nice ones,will snag a beam style.

It's not like action torque is end/all,be/all but it would clean up the "equation" a bit. Before reading about it,had already discovered the Savage "floated" rear tang. And didn't/don't need any torque wrench. But,that's being short sighted,somewhat. What I feel Savages actually need is a micrometer "style" rear action screw with embedded spring. And a torque wrench,like a wind meter or chrono, does put numbers on things in a way that your brain can process better. Long way of sayin,think I could use one....

 

[RicinYakima]

I have always used a beam type, but had a clicker when racing many years ago. For pre-loading and adjusting coils springs on the gasser, you where never going to see a dial or a scale.

 

[creosote]

Long story short.
I need one too. Just looked till I wanted to smash phone.
The common everyone has one for 25 bucks inch lbs. All Look to be made by the same tiwanian company with two different plastic pointers. Red one & a black one. (No plastic for me thank you)
Msc tools? Wants 3x' s more $$
Pro torque tools has made in USA with a genuine steel pointer. (Around 150 bucks) I have no affiliation with them & this forum is costing more money again.

 

[popper]

Mine only gets used when tightening lug nuts on alloy wheels or tightening barrel nuts - not much use anymore. Was good for head bolts and studs.

 

[JWFilips]

Could one just use a 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch adapter to bring down the size or does that mess with the readings?

 

[Bret4207]

Fortunately, I was born with a torque wrench built into my elbow. I'm never, ever off...............well, hardly ever.

 

[Ian]

Mount a dial indicator on your sling stud and check the barrel movement as you torque the Savage rear action screw. If the barrel moves, you have a problem. All my Savage action screw torque settings are recorded (all but one the same, oddball is in a Boyd's stock, full pillar + skim bed) and duplicated upon reinstallation. It matters.

 

[Ian]

Fortunately, I was born with a torque wrench built into my elbow. I'm never, ever off...............well, hardly ever.

I got one too, it even has a predictive function: "1/4 turn before it breaks".

 

[462]

My ol' clicker elbow is usually pretty close enough, but for more precise work I prefer the Air Force load crew method: Tighten it till it starts to smoke, then back it off half-a-turn.

 

[S Mac]

Could one just use a 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch adapter to bring down the size or does that mess with the readings?

1/4 to 1/2 or vice versa won't matter. What does change readings is when you offset, ie a Crowsfoot.

 

[Rick H]

I use a Taiwanese clicker type for rifle action bolts. It is a vast improvement in consistency over the "precision elbow" and it is repeatable. Dial would be nice but I'm not sure you would gain much. I used to use beams types for automotive uses but have gone over to clicker's there too. The clicker is easier to use from all angles and just as accurate (when compared to the beam types).

 

[Intheshop]

BMW,uses "angle torqueing" on a surprising number of fasteners. You bring the nut or bolt to bear,then go so many degrees past. Works OK.

Which is sorta what I have been using on action screws. Then put a little witness punch mark. The biggest issue that I have is once bedded properly,taking an action in and out should show no real or "practical" change in POI. If it does,you ain't doing something right? Same with Weaver tip off scope mounts.

 

[Snakeoil]

You can use any wrench and a spring scale or digital strain gage to measure torque. Done it many times when no room for torque wrench. Trigger pull scale would work fine for this.

Don't forget the condition of threads change torque reading. Lubed threads use less than dry. Torque is just a simple way to measure bolt stretch.

 

[Ian]

BMW,uses "angle torqueing" on a surprising number of fasteners. You bring the nut or bolt to bear,then go so many degrees past. Works OK.

Which is sorta what I have been using on action screws. Then put a little witness punch mark. The biggest issue that I have is once bedded properly,taking an action in and out should show no real or "practical" change in POI. If it does,you ain't doing something right? Same with Weaver tip off scope mounts.

If you bedded it, wouldn't maintaining the torque used when bedding be the thing to do? I've never done it differently so I don't know.

Until you actually put a dial indicator on the barrel and start adjusting action screws you won't know how good or bad the bedding is. Savage 1X and 1XX bolt rifles are usually pretty good in this department due to pillars but as you know half the back one is notched out for the sear and that puts stress into the action. I have managed to re-pillar a few and get more like 75% contact, and the result after filing and peening the pillars to the action and bedding the action with the pillars torqued to it with bushed screws has always yeilded a true stress-free system. If you don't have pillars the screws won't hold constant torque as weather changes happen, so torquing action screws by any other means than the feel of the screwdriver may be pointless.

 

[RicinYakima]

If you went to flat actions like US model 1903 or Winchester model 54's, you wouldn't need to worry about it. Round actions are cheap, that's why you have to worry about them.