1/4" torque wrench

Bret4207

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I'ce found the best thing for removing exhaust studs is the "hot wrench". Torch off the heads, get the manifold outta the way and by then the heat has sunk in enough that they come out with Vise-Grips. If they don't, heat some more and they will.
 
I

Intheshop

Banned
A really clean 0-75,Proto dial type just went,no bids. I'm,no money. Isn't going to be a problem getting one other than that. Gotta be patient.
 
C

creosote

Well-Known Member
I've Ground a slot with a cutoff wheel, then unscrew with flat screw driver.
& easy out, & last resort, dental pick remaining threads.
Heat is what I wish I had done first...... Before the bolt head broke.
 
I

Intheshop

Banned
Got a Proto,made in the good ole USA 1/4" dial type off evilbay. It is mint,never been used. You can tell by looking at the 1/4" sq drive and a factory sticker is still on the side.

Didn't get a "story" in the description but hazzard to guess,somebody's getting rid of a large lot bought from a biz gone under?

I don't drink(or smoke)but,a cpl cases of cheap beer,and two packs of cigarettes is what it cost. Came with factory blow mold case,pics forthcoming. Looking forward to see where the heck my action screws have been all these years. And seriously gonna think about a screw in,threaded weldment affair to replace a handle on a 4500 lube sizer. More as a learning experience. Making the adapter will take a 1/2 hour so that's negligible. Just curious on a cpl bullet sizing efforts to see if there's something to be gained?
 
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P

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
Years ago I worked with a guy who's method of tightening fasteners was, "As far as it will go and then one more turn". Needless to say we got pretty good at extracting broken bolts and repairing things he had fixed.

There was a time when measuring stretch was considered a better measurement than measuring torque. This only works when dealing with studs and nuts. A dial indicator was used to measure how much the stud stretched when the nuts were tightened. A torque wrench is still needed with bolts in blind holes.
I think measuring the stretch of a stud with a dial indicator finally fell out of favor in most main stream applications. Some engine builders still use that method for connecting rods but it requires new studs of a known quality each time (All of the new studs must be made at the same time, from the same alloy and you must sacrifice at least one on a jig to determine the amount of stretch needed to achieve a known value).
All bolts, studs, screws - stretch a bit when they are tightened and materials involved play a big role in those clamping forces.
 
Rally

Rally

NC Minnesota
So your saying not to replace exhaust studs with Grade 2 bolts? LOL
I worked on a lot of late 60's early 70's Chrysler big blocks in late 70's. Everybody was installing Hooker Headers if they could afford them, and Black Jacks if they couldn't. Chrysler big blocks were horrible for exhaust studs breaking off. We felt pretty good if you got out 50% without them breaking, and all of them leaked.
 
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