22-250 with cast bullets

[Billy G]

I have a 22-250 with a 9 twist & another with a 12 twist. Any suggestions on cast bullet weight & powder charge with Re7 & H322?

 

[RBHarter]

The 12 will be easier to get going . My 222 shot the 225-62 NOE about 2600 fps the same as Hornady, FC , Rem and Winchester factory 50s . A guys gotta get brass somewhere and when it comes with the rifle ......

 

[fiver]

322 might be a bit sketchy as far as ballistics go... it can sometimes wander a bit [velocity wise] if it's lowered without a filler.
but try a 3/4 223 load under a bullet and see what you get.

 

[Billy G]

A guys gotta get brass somewhere and when it comes with the rifle ......

Man was you right about finding 22-250 brass. I looked at every web site that sells brass, even the ones that sells it used. Nobody has any & some said it was discontinued. So I'm rebarreling 1 to .308 & rechambering the other to 22 BR. I have plenty of brass & bullets for both.

 

[RBHarter]

22-250 is easy . 308 to 243 then down to 22 and push the shoulder back or use the 250 or 300 Savage and neck to 22 . 6.5 CM should be just a neck and shoulder bump .

 

[RicinYakima]

If you have a iron single stage press and Imperial sizing die wax, you can pump one out every 30 seconds.

 

[Billy G]

Easy ? After you push shoulder back a little over .100 , then you size the neck down in 2 steps, then you trim neck back same as you pushed the shoulder back then you probably have to turn new part of neck you just made, then FLS the case. You can probably push the shoulder back in 30 seconds. The rest is more than I want to do when I would rather have a 22BR & a 308 anyway. But that's just me. I could not find any 250 or 300 savage brass either.

 

[fiver]

hows bout some 243 or 6.5 man bun?

 

[Billy G]

hows bout some 243 or 6.5 man bun?

What? Please explain, I must be a little slow.

 

[fiver]

they'll both squish into 250 cases no problem.
especially the 6.5 since it's based on the 250 sav. case.

 

[Billy G]

they'll both squish into 250 cases no problem.
especially the 6.5 since it's based on the 250 sav. case.

To late now anyway I've already rechambered 1 to 22BR & will order a Shilen 308 barrel Monday. thanks anyway

 

[Billy G]

I did not want to start a new thread so I'll ask here. what about a cut rifled barrel for coated lead bullets. I was thinking top of lands will probably have sharper corners than button or hammer forged rifled barrels. Wondering if it would cut through coating rather than just mashing into bullet. Any thoughts?

 

[Reloader762]

I could not find any 250 or 300 savage brass either.

300 Savage is even easier to make for once fired 308 Win. or NATO brass than 22-250. I've probably made over 500 pieces over the years from 308 Win. or NATO brass people left lying on the ground at the range. The old Sav. 99 love a cast bullet as well.

 

[fiver]

they shot cut rifle barrels with lead for about 500 years before a button was even thought of.
anyway the key isn't the edges of the rifling but the leade into them.

 

[Billy G]

Are you talking about the freebore? If so there should not be any thing in freebore to touch bullet, but if your talking about the throat are you talking about the deg. or how well bullet fits? I thought cut would work on cast , I was worried It mite cut into coating.

 

[fiver]

it'll just push the coating in like a copper wrapper does.
the point of the mash test is to prove the coating moves and flows with the lead.
it doesn't prevent any lead flow it just covers it.

i tested my coating method by taking an 8mm bullet and swaging it up to 35 caliber.
the P/C took the squish up like a champ with no distortion other than what the bullet was shaped to.
if it was gonna cut it would have cracked being distorted like that.