A Better Loading Block

Charles Graff

Moderator Emeritus
001 (640x393).jpg 003 (640x480).jpg Over the past 55 years, I have used all kinds of loading blocks in my reloading activities. I have used wood, plastic and machined corian. Recently I ran across some loading block made by some folks in Tyler Texas out of CNC machined aluminum. I ordered two in 38 Special, my most loaded caliber.

They arrived and I like them. They have a wide solid flat base and are heavy enough so you have to work at knocking one off your bench. Here are some pics. I bought these off Ebay, but their web site is www.LongRangeAccuracy.net
 

Charles Graff

Moderator Emeritus
Oh yes, I paid full price for these and don't know anybody involved in this enterprise. I just saw them on Ebay and had money in my PayPal account burning a hole in my pocket. I just sold some guy a pair of Colt Target Grips for over $300.00. I just wish I had more of them to sell....
 
9

9.3X62AL

Guest
Those have to be the most STALWART loading blocks I've ever seen. That alone suggests I get a pair in each of my most-loaded rifle calibers. These would make excellent gifts for a reloader as well. Just what I need--another facilitation of my tool passion. Many thanks, Charles.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
They are very nice blocks. :cool:

However, I've never had a use for them. I always dispense powder and seat boolit immediately. Works even better since I obtained a RCBS Chargemaster. I'm seating the boolit while next charge is dispensing. My loading blocks are used for storing lubed and sized rifle boolits.
 
3

358156hp

Guest
They ooze class, don't they? They beat the heck out of my Delrin loading blocks.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Very nice, Charles. If they made them in brass for .473" case heads, in at least 5x11 rows I would have a set immediately .
 

Ian

Notorious member
5 wide, eleven long, so I can batch-load 50 at a time and advance each processed row as I go. Ever lose your place when working your way through a full loading block? Sometimes I use two blocks and advance from one block to the other, but I prefer sticking with just one that has one empty row.
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
"Ever lose your place when working your way through a full loading block?"
Lost my place just typing this.

Use wood blocks for black powder cartridge loading. Aluminum conducts electricity way too well.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I use a couple of plastic baskets. Empty case is charged, bullet seated, placed in other basket. Everything I load is done this way except those loaded on the Dillon.

That said, those are the Cadillac of loading blocks.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
Those are way cool Charles. I should ask the guys at work to make me some like that! Brass would be sweet too!
 

carpetman

Active Member
Certainly nice looking and $20 wouldn't require most of you to take out a second mortgage. But I'm with Cherokee in that my approaching 50 year old oak blocks are still working fine. I'm sure others have had the same idea, but here's how I made mine. I had friend that had access to a planner. He could use rough lumber like used for pallets and it finishes out and looks nice. He would make two pieces the same size--one was 1/4" thick and the other the thickness I wanted the depth to be. I would drill all the way through the depth board and didn't have to be concerned if it splintered a little when the bit went through. After drilling, I glued the 1/4" pieces on the bottom (which hid the splintering) and made for a flat bottom.
 

Cherokee

Medina, Ohio
carpetman: I made some of my loading blocks like that, except I used 1/8" plywood for the bottoms, no planner involved.
 

carpetman

Active Member
Using plywood for the bottom is a great thought Cherokee. I might make one for .380. Don't have access to the planner any longer.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I use a couple of plastic baskets. Empty case is charged, bullet seated, placed in other basket. Everything I load is done this way except those loaded on the Dillon.

That said, those are the Cadillac of loading blocks.

Or the large, plastic Folger's coffee cans. Dump brass from can into hopper, pull handle, repeat until it's filled again.
 

Cherokee

Medina, Ohio
carpetman: I always have scrap 1/8" stuff. for the 380, I used two pieces of 1/8 glued together, then drilled the holes through with a brad point drill, then glued the bottom on. YMMV