I’m using a progressive press from Dillon with Dillon dies same set up I use for the jacketed Bullets so thinking one will work why not the other
The press makes little difference.
Your thinking to load cast like jacketed is getting you some pretty awful results right now and is why you are here asking for help.
We've been explaining why hot loads of 4198 pushing an ill-fitting Barlow bullet from a cartridge prepared with standard jacketed-bullet tools won't work for cast bullets in a semi-auto.
To make cast bullets group you have to have two things going: The bullet has to be introduced to the bore absolutely straight and on center, and you have to have consistency in everything that affects the bullet launch.
To get the bullet going straight you first have to have the case neck holding the bullet straight. Since cast bullets must be larger than jacketed to seal the bore and not lead it up from gas cutting, the neck tension needs to be adjusted for the larger bullets. Sizing for jax and then expanding for cast, or not expanding and cramming a .31whatever into a case neck prepared for .308" bullets is going to stretch the neck to the side of least resistance and be off-center to the bore. Not resizing the neck too small with jax dies in the first place is the best policy, hence the recommendations for collet or bushing neck dies. You will need an expander to bell the mouths slightly and true the resized necks for uniform tension. 1.5 to 2 thousandths is all the tension you want or need on a cast bullet. In order to know what size to make your bullets and what size tools you need to prep your brass for the aformentioned tension, you need to know your chamber neck and throat entrance dimensions, hence an accurate chamber cast of some kind (there are several ways to do this) is needed. If you're full-length resizing your brass every firing, the cases will be too small for the chamber and cannot support the bullet straight in line with the bore. Minimal sizing, minimal headspace, and reduction of all tolerances to the minimum is of paramount importance to accuracy with cast bullets in a semi-auto rifle.
The seating die you have may or may not work well for cast bullets and may seat the bullets slightly crooked. Rolling cartridges on a platen and looking for wobble is a good way to see if your bullets are seating straight or not. If not, a Forster seating die can help provided you didn't screw up the necks in the resizing and expanding process.
Certain bullet shapes work better than others for the velocity and pressure needed to function your rifle and make good groups. We explained which ones work for us and what to cast them from, and how you can determine the size you need to make them to fit your particular rifle's chamber.
We explained what powders to look at using and why.
This is a step-by-step thing where you figure out what tools to use to achieve the fit and function we have described, then you use the bullets and components recommended for a fast-track around a big part of the learning curve, and get back to shooting where you can make observations, ask questions, make some adjustments, and eventually get things dialed in.
We haven't even scratched the subjects of bullet lube, barrel vibrations, seating depth, primer brisance, neck hardness, neck turning, primer pocket uniforming, flash hole deburring, effects of different crimp styles, alloy tuning, weighing cases, weighing bullets, or even getting all the copper out of your barrel before shooting cast bullets through it. Most of that stuff is trivial and light years ahead of where you should be thinking right now.
What you should be thinking is "How am I going to get this squishy little blob of lead alloy stuffed in a case and blasted through my rifle with 40 thousand pounds of pressure in such a way that it exits the muzzle with a true and balanced form that will actually go where it's pointed at 170,000 rpm".