Double rifle ........
- Thread starter RBHarter
- Start date
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Missed it, but thanks for verifying my memory at least sorta works!
RBHarter
West Central AR
I have a 10 ga Lyman roll crimp tool 12 ga decapping pins .
It just kills me to spend as much for plastic shotshells as I spent for 1x 32 Rem and 264 WM cases .
$11 each for A turned brass case .........a guy could get some 20mm cases and a swage die and make money turning the swage hump off the head .......
Ok , that was just a frustrated blurt , but you can see the point .
Ian that was exactly the idea .
A 10 ga stage gun . That would certainly make it faster to point .
Maybe just a barrel insert to start , proof of concept .
Is it an integral suppressor device if a sub bore barrel retention nut has a plus one caliber exit and vents gas into the void between the chamber adapter/sub caliber barrel and the full ID of the OM barrel ?
No you're right I don't want to be the test case either .
Maybe it's best just to file this under the good idea fairy .
It just kills me to spend as much for plastic shotshells as I spent for 1x 32 Rem and 264 WM cases .
$11 each for A turned brass case .........a guy could get some 20mm cases and a swage die and make money turning the swage hump off the head .......
Ok , that was just a frustrated blurt , but you can see the point .
Ian that was exactly the idea .
A 10 ga stage gun . That would certainly make it faster to point .
Maybe just a barrel insert to start , proof of concept .
Is it an integral suppressor device if a sub bore barrel retention nut has a plus one caliber exit and vents gas into the void between the chamber adapter/sub caliber barrel and the full ID of the OM barrel ?
No you're right I don't want to be the test case either .
Maybe it's best just to file this under the good idea fairy .
I have had some experience with this type of project having built 2 of them. The first was a 45/70 built on a 20 gauge SKB 280. Someone had put a wad of snow in one of the muzzles and fired it with predictable results. SKB barrels are built using the mono-block system so the barrels are easily removed and replaced. Regulating them took some time but I was eventually able to get them to shoot to within an inch and a half of each other at 50 yards. This is the one gun I really really regret selling.
The other one I still have is built on a Winchester 20 gauge Model 101. For this one I was able to find a set of wrecked Winchester 20 ga. M96 barrels. The M96 was a less expensive version of the M101 but a lot of the part were/are interchangeable. These barrels were also built on mono-blocks. This one, for some reason, was easier to regulate. Perhaps it’s because the barrels are stacked or maybe I just got lucky. Another thing that made this conversion easier was that I was able to simply get a set of .410 extractors and recut the with the 45/70 chamber reamer.
Anyway while I did not have to do this with either of these two projects because they relativity modern firearms for your own safety, yes I know there are a lot of safety concerns on a project like this but I haven’t seen this one mentioned, one must bush the firing pins to a smaller diameter if you are converting to a cartridge with a chamber pressure higher than that of the original. If this is not done a face full of hot gas and perhaps even splinters is a definite possibility. Good luck with your project. If you are looking for suggestions, I think I would go with 2 fully rifled 12 ga. barrels.
The other one I still have is built on a Winchester 20 gauge Model 101. For this one I was able to find a set of wrecked Winchester 20 ga. M96 barrels. The M96 was a less expensive version of the M101 but a lot of the part were/are interchangeable. These barrels were also built on mono-blocks. This one, for some reason, was easier to regulate. Perhaps it’s because the barrels are stacked or maybe I just got lucky. Another thing that made this conversion easier was that I was able to simply get a set of .410 extractors and recut the with the 45/70 chamber reamer.
Anyway while I did not have to do this with either of these two projects because they relativity modern firearms for your own safety, yes I know there are a lot of safety concerns on a project like this but I haven’t seen this one mentioned, one must bush the firing pins to a smaller diameter if you are converting to a cartridge with a chamber pressure higher than that of the original. If this is not done a face full of hot gas and perhaps even splinters is a definite possibility. Good luck with your project. If you are looking for suggestions, I think I would go with 2 fully rifled 12 ga. barrels.
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Ian
Notorious member
Good point on turning down and bushing the firing pins.
I'd ask Tim's opinion on regulation and liner length. My approach would be to O-ring full length liners in on both ends and make muzzle bushings that thread on the liner and could be re-made eccentric if necessary and castellated on the end so they could be tuned with a spanner or choke wrench without rotating the liner itself. If you really wanted to be crafty, thread the muzzle of the liner back about an inch, make a 3/8" long nut that O-rings to the barrel for center and regulation (eccentric if necessary, or have a selection of them made), then have 1/2" long flanged muzzle nuts made to pull the liners in tension inside the barrels. I don't think there's any chance a short liner is going to make it more quiet, and none of the chamber insert makers have been indicted for making "suppressor parts" in the case of a 6" .22 LR or 9mm insert stuffed in, say, a 34" 12-gauge tube, so I wouldn't worry about that. Only legal issue is 18" is minimum barrel length even if you have it totally stubbed out or barrels completely replaced with metallic cartridge barrels...once a shotgun, always a shotgun unless you paper and engrave it as a short shotgun or AOW.
For extraction, I'd just put a fingernail relief in the face of the liner and either remove the 10-gauge extractors or clearance the rim of the liner for them so they don't interfere with each other.
I'd ask Tim's opinion on regulation and liner length. My approach would be to O-ring full length liners in on both ends and make muzzle bushings that thread on the liner and could be re-made eccentric if necessary and castellated on the end so they could be tuned with a spanner or choke wrench without rotating the liner itself. If you really wanted to be crafty, thread the muzzle of the liner back about an inch, make a 3/8" long nut that O-rings to the barrel for center and regulation (eccentric if necessary, or have a selection of them made), then have 1/2" long flanged muzzle nuts made to pull the liners in tension inside the barrels. I don't think there's any chance a short liner is going to make it more quiet, and none of the chamber insert makers have been indicted for making "suppressor parts" in the case of a 6" .22 LR or 9mm insert stuffed in, say, a 34" 12-gauge tube, so I wouldn't worry about that. Only legal issue is 18" is minimum barrel length even if you have it totally stubbed out or barrels completely replaced with metallic cartridge barrels...once a shotgun, always a shotgun unless you paper and engrave it as a short shotgun or AOW.
For extraction, I'd just put a fingernail relief in the face of the liner and either remove the 10-gauge extractors or clearance the rim of the liner for them so they don't interfere with each other.