First Iron Mould from Accurate

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Cut my casting teeth on RCBS iron moulds, over forty years ago. Besides being two cavity, they tend to cast smaller diameter bullets. Pulled out two 35 caliber RCBS moulds, the other day. I haven't cast with those moulds for probably twenty years. Sure enough, the 158 SWC GC was dropping bullets of .3575 diameter. Good enough for the three tight throated J-frame Smiths but I really don't require a GC for 38 Special. So I figured it's time for a custom mould. Always wanted to try one of Tom's iron offerings..............I already own Accurate moulds in brass and aluminum.

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Decided on a mixed cavity. Two PB and two GC of the same design. PB for 38 Special, GC for my 357 revolvers and carbine.

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Notice the shortened sprue plate..................first time I've run across something like that from Tom. Not sure I like it.

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Another first, is the venting on the top of the mould block. :cool:

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Mould arrived Saturday afternoon. Already was too hot (mid 80's) to cast outdoors. So I fired up the pot, yesterday morning and proceeded to ladle cast for a couple of hours. Bullets dropping out of mould at .3605 diameter. I specified .360 with WW +2%...................which is a approximation of my recovered bullet alloy, from my backyard range.

The iron blocks that Tom uses are massive. I was expecting something much smaller, along the lines of the four cavity iron Saeco, I borrowed from Rick...........not even close. Weight of the mould is 1.99 lbs, without handles.:eek: Comparing that, to a four cavity brass, that weighs in at 2.42 pounds...............not quite a half pound difference. An RCBS, two cavity, is a mere 13.2 ounces.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
When I ladle cast, the short end is is nearest to the handle hinge. I use a Rowell #2 and the overflow builds up on that step. One time it built up between the mould and the handle, where I was unable to open the blocks.............without careful prying. Might have to try different brand handles, that will increase the distance of the mould from the hinge. I was using RCBS handles.
 

Cherokee

Medina, Ohio
That large hole on the end of the sprue plate will allow one to install the Lee type lever for opening the mold, which is what I have done to all my Accurate 5 Cv molds. I also use the Lee handles.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
No need for that lever, when ladle casting. Mould is up to optimun temperature when I can open with a gloved hand. Besides, it adds unnecessary weight to brass or iron multi cavity moulds............that are already too heavy for this old fart.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
turn the mold around on the handles.
I find it a whole ton easier to open with a gloved hand.
I can use the handle and the plate like a reverse scissor action and the sprue ends up in my hand.
 
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Ian

Notorious member
I too fuss about the "short" sprue plate with the angle catching lead on the end, but it's a small problem easily overcome by tilting the mould slightly.

Tom's steel moulds are best ones IMO, lead no sticky and the temperature uniformity is very good. The vent lines on top are a new feature that I really like, it precludes the need to break the inside top of the block edges with a file.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Use to cast with the sprue plate turned to the rear...................found out I liked it better at the top.

Tried a different set of mould handles, yesterday. Used a set made by RedRiverRick (KAL handles) out of Canada. Twice the distance between the mould and the handle hinge, than the RCBS handles. Mucho better.
 

Cherokee

Medina, Ohio
Another example of the individualistic nature of this hobby of ours; different styles and methods, all good, to get to the same result.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I have a couple and they are very nice handles. Best I own.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Bought a few different sets, years ago. Have one set for Lyman 4 cavity moulds with 1/4" slots, that I've never used. Mostly because I don't own any Lyman moulds. Broke one set of handles but Rick replaced them. Instead of using full thickness stock and bending them...............he milled the bends. He has since, mended his ways. Wouldn't hold up to use with MP's heave brass four cavity blocks.

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CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
Not sure I need any more moulds beyond the 90+ that now crowd my shelves and Plano containers, but if an idea to get another occurs to me it will be one of Tom's iron blocks.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Cast the bullets, Sunday. Lubed and sized to .360 diameter, Monday. Loaded some ladder loads, Tuesday. Shot them, yesterday. They did not disappoint. Data out of Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook (4th edition) using Lyman's #358665 (RNFP) cast bullet.

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Both the 13 grain load and the 13.5 grain load were a toss up. Both right @ 2 MOA for five shots. Both had three shots in 3/4" groups. Only difference being a slightly higher POI for the extra half grain. The 14.0 grain load was half grain over book listing. No apparent over pressure signs. My current load for a 158 SWC is 14.5 grains. I could probably go there but it is starting to exhibit vertical stringing.

Targets shot at 60 yards, sitting, with a camera tripod supporting the Rossi carbine. Sights were Vortex 2 x 7 Scout scope set at 5 power. Scope is only used for load development. Normally, the carbine wears a Vortex SPARC red dot.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
that's my preferred 38 cal bullet also.
sometimes it seems to get a little flighty at the high end if it isn't launched just so, IMO it's because that nose is just a smidge too long.
but I have oh jeez,,, 3-5K of them loaded up pretty much at all times.
 

S Mac

Sept. 10, 2021 Steve left us. You are missed.
Maybe I missed it, what do the bullets weigh? Looks real similar to my Saeco 353, 180 grns. Plain base.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
I'm preferring the plate 'handle' next to the handles as left index finger opens it easily and no hot hand. Sprue drop in pan, gloves hand stays cool.