Getting back into shotgun slugs

Rally

NC Minnesota
Good to hear your hand is improving. I also add about 1.5% tin to my slug casting to improve fill out, end up with nice clean corners on the drive key bases, and cast at @ 775.
I cast a bunch of the Lee 7/8 slugs again this afternoon. Filled that ice cream bucket, ended up with 45.6 lbs of them. The mould I replaced the sprue plate screw on worked so well, I'm going to do the same to the newer mould. Still waiting on the Russian moulds.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
I can't wait to get a lathe. The pins on the Russian molds come apart into several pieces. I want to try a few different pins to see if I can change the center weight either forward or rearward. Several people I talked to on Facebook have said that these don't fly right unless you have the tail wads on. I loaded up a few to test that. But finding time is the biggest problem I have to test things.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Its salvaged RIMFIRE lead. From a rimfire only range.

Good ta hear your hand is not botherin ya badly. ( I was looking to post & ask)

I have been using it in 10:1 & 16:1 and its beautiful lead!! I assume its lead and tin as most LR RF lead is such.

CW
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I got ahold of a ton of that 22lr lead and ended up mixing it 1 part to 3 parts old school ww's, then tossed in a hair more tin.
it's always cast real nice for me, it seems some malleable but with a good toughness to it [copper maybe?]
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
Finally got off my butt and went to the range. Was not shooting for accuracy. Had to sight in the scope and get some velocity #'s at the same time.

Got it sighted for 50 yds. Velocities were slow just as I remembered from the lyman slugs I used to load. With 25gr of herco, bp x12x gas seal, 3/8" fiber wad, small brush wad gas seal, slug were 1120fps roll crimp in Federal hulls. Same speed using Brenneke KO slug hulls. But S&B high brass buckshot hulls was 1220fps.

Same stack above with 28.5 grs herco in a KO slug hull was 1250fps.

I also had some win aa hulls that I used a fold crimp that were running 495fps! Never seen a load that low before. It sounded like a blooper. I checked each time to make sure everything made it out. It shot 2 feet higher at 75 yds. Must be from the longer time in the barrel.

I got done what I wanted today. Had a guy come up to me trying to sell me some wolf 223 shells. He had 3 boxes of them and 1 box American Eagle 223. Wanted a $1/rd! I laughed and told him to keep walking
 
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Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
They were ones I had messed up the fold crimp. I was setting up the 600 for the crimp. Once the crimp was fixed they ran 960fps. Same 25gr herco but a windjammer wad with petals removed then screwed to the slug.

One thing I was wondering is if the speeds slow down like pistols do when you powder coat the slugs. I am powder coating them so no leading like a normal foster does.

I think I may order some 1/2" hard cards. These fiber wads were turning to dust when I shot them. They are herters and Alcan waxed fiber wads. Or are they supposed to?

Speeds should be accurate. I had the chrono about a foot away from the muzzle and a foot low so I don't shoot another one
 
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Rally

NC Minnesota
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Played hooky today, had a few hours to check out the new Russian moulds, so cast a few of both the 12 ga. and the 16 ga.. Can't tell you how tickled I am with the 16 ga. in particular right now, and I haven't even shot any yet. They weigh 365 gr. from my COWW plus 1.5% Sn alloy, more than 3/4 Oz, less than 7/8 oz. The ones in the baggie are SOWW plus 1.5% SN.(Pewter).

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The reason I'm so tickled is pictured above, which is the BPI Z16 wad with the slugs in them. This particular wad had to of been designed for this slug! The slug actually "snaps" into the wad, fits it for length, and even the beveled edge on the bottom of the slug, matches the bevel on the inside of the shotcup when seated. The wad has relief cuts at the bottom of the shotcup and a retention band at the top, which allow a little stretch when the slug is inserted and the slug actually "snaps" into position when it bottoms out! I'd almost bet somewhere in the world there is a company selling these two as a loaded round. When the slugs are snapped into the wads I can turn them upside down and they stay in place! Pretty rare to find anything in the 16 gauge world of reloading that actually works this well.
What really tickles me is that the BPI 16 gauge manual has load listings for the RIO hulls I use, with the Z16 wad, and Herco powder, which I just happen to have a bunch of, with recipes from 26 gr at 1375, to 30 gr. loads at 1550. It also just so happens the Z16 wad is what I load my pheasant ammo with! I'm a happy camper today!
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This last picture is while I was casting the full bore 12 gauge slugs. Pretty neat moulds both of them. Both are single cavity, cast well, and both well designed. I was really impressed with the sprue plate design, which has a bevel and tapered cut which holds the plate tight to the mould when closed. Also interesting is the retaining screws and sprue plate are stainless, and the screws bottom out when tightened, with no adjustment, vent lines on only one half of mould. Recesses in the mould for the pin are smooth and just barely turn when installed and the mould closed.
Real easy to cast with, and all I really did was clean it with a toothbrush, hot water, and dish soap first, then alcohol. Lubed it up with full synthetic 2 cycle oil (Mercury Quicksilver), and went to casting. Figured out a routine where I would fill the mould, let it frost over, cut the sprue with one lite tap to the sprue plate, open the mould, tap the handle hinge bolt and both the pin and slug fell out onto my towel. I'd pick the pin up with the slug still on the tip and set it to one side on it's nose. Towards the end I was putting them in rows of 10 on their nose. Slugs released flawlessly. Never smoked the pin nor mould, and both inside and outside mould surfaces are mirror finish. Edges of sprue plate and top of the mould had already been beveled. Pretty impressed with both design and function. The full bore 12 ga. slug drops at 620 grs. (between 1 3/8 oz and 1 1/2 oz) with my allow, and fits well in the bore of 3 of my imp. cylinder bore guns. Now if they'll just shoot!
 
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Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
Before you load any of that lyman copy, get yourself a hot glue gun and fill the base of each slug. Let them cool off then trim flat with a razor blade. The skirts collapses on them sometimes and causes flyers. And the skirts can crack from this also. So the glue helps to prevent this and from the wad getting shoved up into the base.
 

Rally

NC Minnesota
These Russians Have a thicker skirt than the Lyman, and I'm using a stronger alloy to start. I'm going to try them the way they are before filling the hollow. I'm thinking the alloy and fit of these wads may eliminate the collapse, infact the way the tail is beveled may actually improve gas seal at launch. Just a guess on my part now, but I'll tell you when I get to shooting them. I've got lots of hot glues and chaulkings around here, the wife is a crafter! LOL
Right now I have a 7' tall snow pile that is @ 28 yards from my back door to shoot into also, so may be able to recover a few to see what they look like after being shot.
 
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Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
From before I found you had to use almost pure for best accuracy. Especially the 20ga version. I ruined a chronograph by using some WW lead. The skirt cracked and shot right through the chrono ending up just past the rear screen.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Good show TB! Glad ya got out! How was accuracy?
I have yet to buy any molds for shotgun. I have only shot a few of the 410 slugs I was gifted but was quite happy keeping all but a few on a silhouette target at 125 yards. The once that missed I SAW them strike the ground many yards in front of the target and its my assumption these had the wad come off the slug.
I like the slug you chose but I like others as well. Maybe I will grab one if I do Ill get a different one. Just to see if any different. I think all there slugs are pretty well proven. I read that one should order direct for a savings...

CW
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
the fiber wads are probably okay to poof apart.
they are really nothing more than a space filler, but I'm imagining they have to be what is killing your velocity.
they are giving up too much room in the case too quickly.

I'm running around 24-25grs of unique in one of my buckshot loads and I can assure you they are going more than 900 fps.
I'd try a cork spacer in their place.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
I loaded up a couple with hard cards and the brush wad to check vel. used the 28.5 gr load

I found 50 3" S&B hulls while I was there. And 25 Kent nickel plated 3" steel shot hulls. I suppose those all take the larger cheddite primers right? I also have a bunch of 3.5" somewhere. Should be able to cut these down to 2 3/4" and 3" no problem