Going to make “speed green”

Roger Allen

Active Member
So I have the beeswax and I have 2 stroke and I understand it’s a 3:1 ratio beeswax to 2 stroke.

My temps range from 20 in the winter to 105 in the summer

The ideas is 357 mag at 1100-1300 fps and 38-55 at around 1400 fps.

Other things I have is slightly reduced jpw, gulf wax, various greases. Can purchase things if necessary.
 

Ian

Well-Known Member
Do you have the correct two-stroke oil to make "Speed Green"? It matters. I don't think you'll be happy with it in the heat unless you bump it with 5% liquid Alox and cut the ratio to 4:1 wax/oil (I think that's the recipe anyway).

I would recommend LBT Blue Soft if buying, or make SL-68B or SL-71B which is designed to handle the exact temperature range you have and shoot clean.
 

Roger Allen

Active Member
I can deff do a 4-1 ratio if you believe that’ll be my huckleberry. The liquid alox.....will that make a good change? I know your a reliable source for things chemical.

I have synthetic blend 2 stroke oil.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
speed green was made with bullshop's bullplate lube.
there has been a lot of speculation on what exactly it is, and umm 'probably' even some testing to find out.

Dan wouldn't even tell his kids how he was making it.
but the original recipe was 3 parts wax to 1 part bullplate.
however I'm with Ian I wouldn't use the 2 stroke in that high of a concentration, since I'm 99% positive the original stuff was manipulated.

I can make some suggestions if your just wanting to play around with stuff on a Saturday.
but if your just looking to make some lube and shoot it then Ian's recipe above will work just fine.
it wouldn't hurt to finish cooking off a TBS of the JPW as a start, then adding the 2 stroke and Alox stirring on higher heat [200-ish] for just a minute before adding the wax and mixing that whole mess together on/off the heat until it's all incorporated together.
 

Roger Allen

Active Member
Yeah there was some concensous that 2 stroke would work fine or prob fine. I was semi afraid to start using a soap lube because of botching the cook time and end up messing up my soap melt
 

Ian

Well-Known Member
I've made more smoking messes than bullet lube when using soap. After a couple of years I finally got it down where it can be duplicated. Most of the people who've tried it have met with success the first or second try after studying the documented process. JonB's thread on soap lube here is a good one, has photos which are invaluable, and some input from several of us who are familiar with the process.

I recommend the soap lube because it will with stand hot storage and hot barrels same as LBT Blue, and those are the only two pistol-suitable lubes I know of that will, aside from Walt Melander's old Texaco grease which was just about as good as it gets for handguns.
 

JonB

Central Minnesota
First, I much prefer SL68B to any beeswax based lube like Speed Green.

But... years ago, as a newbie bullet caster, I had used Speed Green with seemingly no problems, except for it's insane stickiness and messiness. I, therefore concocted my own version, with the help of other members. I added a tiny amount of Lanolin and a bit of reduced JPW. Initially, I met with some failure (purge flyers) ...and after some trial and error, I found the oil, that I chose to use, needed to be about 20% (or less) of the mix, instead of the 25% which I started with. The recipe is at the "other" site in the Sticky "Lube Recipes: just the facts" thread ...Post #93 IIRC?

I used Amsoil Dominator (synth 2 cycle racing oil), I chose Dominator because of it's advertising that it has excellent film strength for high-heat, high-rpm motors and that it burns clean. I hoped it would deliver similar results in a gun barrel. I learned later, that the PAO based oil is know for it's slipperiness and that is why less is needed.

If you share what oil your want to use, some members here could point you in a direction of where to start for a percentage.
That's my 2¢
 
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Ian

Well-Known Member
Is there any fear of the normally semistrong alkaline nature of soap against carbon steel?
It isn't alkaline if you make it right. pH runs about 6.7 on 68.1 with no beeswax, haven't tested any of the "dash B" formulas. The free fatty acids in the castor oil soak up any excess sodium hydroxide.

Ben's is good basic lube but like most recipes doesn't stay put in extreme heat.
 

Roger Allen

Active Member
First, I much prefer SL68B to any beeswax based lube like Speed Green.

But... years ago, as a newbie bullet caster, I had used Speed Green with seemingly no problems, except for it's insane stickiness and messiness. I, therefore concocted my own version, with the help of other members. I added a tiny amount of Lanolin and a bit of reduced JPW. Initially, I met with some failure (purge flyers) ...and after some trial and error, I found the oil, that I chose to use, needed to be about 20% (or less) of the mix, instead of the 25% which I started with. The recipe is at the "other" site in the Sticky "Lube Recipes: just the facts" thread ...Post #93 IIRC?

I used Amsoil Dominator (synth 2 cycle racing oil), I chose Dominator because of it's advertising that it has excellent film strength for high-heat, high-rpm motors and that it burns clean. I hoped it would deliver similar results in a gun barrel. I learned later, that the PAO based oil is know for it's slipperiness and that is why less is needed.

If you share what oil your want to use, some members here could point you in a direction of where to start for a percentage.
That's my 2¢
So this is what I picked up


Same brand and all. Yeah. I saw the post about dominator....didn’t know what dominator was but turns out it’s a awesome brand of 2 stroke. I’m here to gleen info from you all
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
I will second the LBT Soft Blue recommendation. I have never had any issues with this lube,
and it has always done a great job. If somehow I was forced to choose one lube to use forever,
no chance of changing ever, I would grab LBT Soft Blue and never look back.

I do make what I call Red Max, from a recipe which apparently traces back to poster with the
handle '357 Maximum' (and happens to be red) on the other site that has done equally good work
for me. And I still use some old NRA 50/50 formula with satisfaction, too.

I have the ingredients in hand for Ben's Red, but haven't gotten a round tuit yet.
And same for Glen's Black, but still short on round tuits.

As to bullplate.... I have no interest in harming BullShop's business, but I have casually
noted that Stihl 2stroke oil is about the same shade of green. Coincidence? Could
easily be. No idea at all. Still have and use Bullplate lube.

Bill
 
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Roger Allen

Active Member
Yeah, I’ve heard that speed green can be made from various sources of 2 stroke.

I’m gathering from the crowd that the 3-1 ratio may be a little rich, that certain brands will cause purge fliers from first cold shots, there’s better lubes. I’m all ears.

I can buy different ingredients just pefer to be able to source them somewhat locally and also easy enough for a beginning lube maker to be able to handle.
 

Ian

Well-Known Member
You want a lube that will do what you need, or one that's easy to make? Are you starting to see the issue here?
 

Roger Allen

Active Member
If I had a choice it would be better to do it right w a superior product.

Do you have any helpful tips on making a soap based formula as to less complicate what I would consider the soap melt process? It’s not overly complicated but what I read was you can go from melted soap to burnt easily.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
LBT Soft Blue is REALLY easy to "make", and zero mess. :)

Quoting from a grand master at soap based lubes:
"I've made more smoking messes than bullet lube when using soap."

Bill
 
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Roger Allen

Active Member
Yup. Let me look into lbt blue a little more. Even bens red. I might have a lot of things down but making semi complicated lives not so much. Still interested in ideas how not to botch the soap melt process Ian.
 

Brad

Administrator
Staff member
Soap lubes need high heat but not always a fast heat. You need to get into the 450° F range. Stir a bunch but don’t splash any on you, it burns like a somnabitch if it hits bare skin.

Adding beeswax too soon can lead to scorching it.

Do this OUTDOORS! It smells a bit and I can assure you that spouses do not find it humorous when their kitchen stinks of lube. Good use for a small electric hot plate.

Here is the tutorial you want.
 
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Ian

Well-Known Member
Look back through the old threads in this section, way back. JonB did one with photos, Gman did one (best basic recipe to follow is there), and I did a photo tutorial a few years back. Title keywords SL or Soap Lube.