Good mold temp to shoot for?

waco

Springfield, Oregon
Just bought an infrared heat gun. What is a good mold temperature to shoot for. 350°?
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
Nice. About to use my first MP brass mold. Got the penta pins in. 358429
Ran it through four heat cycles up to 400 after cleaning. Got a small propane torch handy to help the pins along.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Just like the alloys they're going to vary what's optimal. Hollow points a little more really large block maybe a little more a really small block like a leaf would be less. But yeah I think 350s a good target.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Shoot for 350-400, bottom line is that the mold will tell you. Once you get the mold temp to a good casting temp adjust your casting Rythm keep it at that Goldi locks temp and perfect bullets will fall right out of the mold. If that temp is 350, 400, 425 so be it, each mold will be a bit different.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Wow Temperature ...I do not know But I put my molds on my hot plate on medium setting and start my Lee 20lb pot.
When that get to liquidus I scrape the pot thoroughly ten take it up to 720 deg and seal it with bees wax and light it!
Then I shut off the hot plate and start casting! If I'm lucky most time the first cast are right on!
Now the 25 cal 60 grain mould needs to run real hot and the pot is 780 deg and I cast fast
Never measure anything but th pot
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
i've measured steel and aluminum molds but never a brass mold.
i just let them heat sink and cast with them, they seem to even out and then stay pretty much right there.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
I like the way brass holds heat longer. No bullets sticking to pins right from the get go. I did help them along with a torch from the start. Very happy.
 

Josh

Well-Known Member
I run my MP 402-190-HP mould and my 30-180-SIL HP very warm, 425 degrees or warmer. I actually prefer to be too hot on the mould temp and slowly let it cool as I cast until I hit the right spot. I've found PC covers up frosty bullets pretty easily.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
I can not cast well with any brass mould! Had them and sold them fast!
I can not cast well with any brass mould! Had them and sold them fast!
I thought I'd never get that MP to run ....... Once it finally got its patina it was a whole different animal to use . It's a 462-420 w/HB pins so its also a nose pour . New in box I must have washed it 6-7 times and heat cycled it 20+ times and run 18-19 sessions more than that before I got more than a dozen bullets in 35-40 pours I could use . I had the "dirty cavity" , "oil migration" , bad alloy , add tin , hot/cold halves , no filling out , over heated , can't keep it hot enough, gonna throw it off a cliff into 200' of alkaline brine lake so nobody else can get hurt with this rotten , lousy , son.......you get the picture.

It's sure nice to use now if I'm in the mood to pour a couple of pots of 380gr HB or 417gr solids or 50/50 for full boat sledgehammer truck wreckers .

I think it gave me more fivehead than the teenagers did .
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
I can not cast well with any brass mould! Had them and sold them fast!

Brass is a fine mold material and is a pleasure to cast with, get it to its Goldi Locks casting temp and don't run the pot too hot and it will be raining bullets, its downside is weight. Like any mold material there is a learning curve. People that learn on one mold material often have trouble when switching to another, iron to aluminum or aluminum to brass for example. Anything worth doing is worth the learning curve. I never had any of the issues that RB mentioned. Neither have I ever heat cycled any mold, never saw the point. Clean it well with denatured alcohol, pre-heat and cast.

As a side note, even after pre-heating it will take 7 or 8 pours to even out the mold temp (think Goldi Locks, just right) with any mold material, the first pours will be the lightest bullets of the casting session.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
I lived in the land of "what's rust" a polished brass fitting not exposed to the wind will take years to discolor . I've picked up steel cans with perfect labels on the bottom side and the aluminum top sand blasted away. 12-18% humidity and 3.5-4" of annual precipitation ...... Now I don't think I can get it down to 25% in 400° oven and 3.5-4" is a weekly deal .
 

PGPKY2014

Active Member
I have and enjoy using iron/steel ,aluminum, and brass moulds.They are all different and have their pros and cons. Ido agree with Rick about the heaviness of brass. Arthritis,no long sessions
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Brass (4 cav) is too heavy for my wrists. I had several and sold most of them.
.
I still have a Accurate 3 cav brass 41 cal WC, talk about goldie locks, once I get it hot enough to rain bullets, it starts to "tin" on a couple spots on the mold face (pointy edge) next to cavities. I tried to put on a artificial patina, and it helped a little.
 

beagle

Active Member
I like it right at 400 degrees. Seems to cast best for me there. Milage will vary due to cavity size, size of blocks and number of cavities. Have to see what works best./beagle