I Grabbed another mold...

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Most of my moulds were snatched up back in the day when an average price was maybe $25. I've gotten then for less than $10. Times have sure changed! How are you planning on cleaning it up?
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Most of my moulds were snatched up back in the day when an average price was maybe $25. I've gotten then for less than $10. Times have sure changed! How are you planning on cleaning it up?
Evapo - Rust. Probably but may not be needed. Might be cleaned by hand.

CW
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
From what I see on that mould the interior isn't bad. Some 4/0 steel wool on a pointy stick will rub most of it away I think. On the outside I'd use the same 4/0 or maybe a soft wire wheel. I might be inclined to put some 320 paper on a piece of glass add a little light oil and polish the outside to rust free that way too.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Vinegar.
Last year, when I was refurbishing a new to me wood stove that had been stored in a unheated barn for umteen years and had pocked rust. Before I applied the special wood stove paint, I sanded it down, but knowing there'd be rust in the pocks, I soaked it in vinegar and wrapped it with shrink wrap and put it in the hot summer sun for a few hours. Vinegar does better at removing rust when there is some heat.

You can see the rust coming out of the pocks.
vinegar wrap Jun2021 500px.jpg
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Any acid, well most acids anyway, will remove rust. There are dairy cleaning acids available at Tractor Supply that remove all your rust and a lot other stuff off your stoves, moulds, tools, etc. There are readily availble acids that will eat the aluminum transfer off your chrome plated chainsaw cylinder that galled. But the question is, "Is it the best choice available?" Sometimes yes, other times no. I think the question becomes, "What am I left with after using it and what downsides will I then discover?"
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Evapo Rust is dead easy. But Ill try oul cloth and maybe fine steel wool first.

Heck just casting has a way of nullifying light surface corrosion. Cannot exactly tell but might be all thats there.

Ill know soon enough, you guys will know shortly after!

CW
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Any acid, well most acids anyway, will remove rust. There are dairy cleaning acids available at Tractor Supply that remove all your rust and a lot other stuff off your stoves, moulds, tools, etc. There are readily availble acids that will eat the aluminum transfer off your chrome plated chainsaw cylinder that galled. But the question is, "Is it the best choice available?" Sometimes yes, other times no. I think the question becomes, "What am I left with after using it and what downsides will I then discover?"
Mostly, I used grocery store vinegar for this wood stove project, because it is safe and cheap. It's rare for me to go to that extent on a project such as it was, but this wood stove, while having been manufactured 30 yrs ago, it's appearance clued me in as it hadn't really been used beyond a test firing. I had never used vinegar for rust removal before for other projects, I've read it is quite slow and I tend to be somewhat impatient, so this was kind of a test of sorts, for my future projects...cuz you know there is always another project around the corner.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Mostly, I used grocery store vinegar for this wood stove project, because it is safe and cheap. It's rare for me to go to that extent on a project such as it was, but this wood stove, while having been manufactured 30 yrs ago, it's appearance clued me in as it hadn't really been used beyond a test firing. I had never used vinegar for rust removal before for other projects, I've read it is quite slow and I tend to be somewhat impatient, so this was kind of a test of sorts, for my future projects...cuz you know there is always another project around the corner.
That's a Fischer, (sp.) We had a Grandpa III in our cabin/shack up on the Flambeau. Loved that stove.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
That's a Fischer, (sp.) We had a Grandpa III in our cabin/shack up on the Flambeau. Loved that stove.
It's not a Fisher...or a Fischer.
I have noticed many stoves by other manufacturers look like mine...including Drolet.
This one was made in 1991 to the new 1990 EPA Standards (according to the owners manual.)
Made by Haugh's in Brampton Ont CA.
This model is the Cabot Elite #S173E
I 'think' Century (out of Quebec) bought out Haugh's in the 1990s or maybe just copied the design exactly?
Because my buddy has a Century stove that is exactly the same.

here is a better photo...curing the paint in the driveway.
BTW, the top plate surface had very sharp corners, the first thing I did was
to use a grinder to round the corners as well as smooth all the edges before
I repainted it.
7 fireup cure paint AUG2021 500px.jpg
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
you have to be very careful about breaking off that thin driving band getting the bullet out of the mold.

give the bullet plenty of time to harden off before opening it.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
It's not a Fisher...or a Fischer.
I have noticed many stoves by other manufacturers look like mine...including Drolet.
This one was made in 1991 to the new 1990 EPA Standards (according to the owners manual.)
Made by Haugh's in Brampton Ont CA.
This model is the Cabot Elite #S173E
I 'think' Century (out of Quebec) bought out Haugh's in the 1990s or maybe just copied the design exactly?
Because my buddy has a Century stove that is exactly the same.

here is a better photo...curing the paint in the driveway.
BTW, the top plate surface had very sharp corners, the first thing I did was
to use a grinder to round the corners as well as smooth all the edges before
I repainted it.
View attachment 28811
Look very good, nice work. What's the Allis Chalmers orange thing parked behind it with the modern wheels?