Let's see where you do your casting ? ?

Glaciers

Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
OK the first thing I'm seeing here is most of the casting pot look clean! Mine is covered with crud!

I thing what your seeing Jim is some people have some pride to clean up a little before taking a picture that will get shown around. So it maybe a pride thing. Just saying.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Heck,
That is like Smearing Oil all over a cooked Turkey to make it better looking in a photo!
Anyway I could not scrub the years of crud off my pot if I wanted to!
 

Ian

Notorious member
I've had my Lee 4-20 since about 2008 and the liner is getting thin after somewhere around two to two and a half tons of lead has been run through it. I clean up my pot periodically and try to keep it that way, the main mess is all the little specks of lead everywhere from it dripping sometimes. I use an old pump control box lid for a four-sided containment system and that really helps contain the bits of lead.
 

Glaciers

Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
Well I'm hoping my pot gets a little more ware and tare on it, as I have about 2500 pounds of lead that's laying around not doing much of anything and I'm finely coming up with some time.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
I picked up an Ove glove after all the hoopla. I tried it but can't warm up to it. I still prefer my heavy cotton gauntlet gloves. Guess maybe because they are so tight fitting. Those silicon dots just don't work for wiping lead off mould surfaces.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Got a photo of those gloves John? Any place we can get some to try?
The Ove Glove was a huge improvement over the simple leather glove I was using. That thing worked unless I let my hand sit a little to long and the heat got thru.
Being able to hold onto things for more than a few seconds made me a believer. A believer with fewer burns too.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Your wish is my command.

IMG_1654.JPG

Haven't looked into places that sell them. These are from when I still worked for a living.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
I can tell ya what gloves are most definitely NOT for casting, was in a store several years back and found a pair of pigskin work gloves. Tried them on and thought wow, these are the most comfortable work gloves I've ever seen. Bought them and the very first sprue plate I opened wearing them raised blisters. :eek: Zero thermal protection, none, nada. Was just like wearing no gloves at all. I think we need to leave the pigskin to footballs.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
These gloves might be close to what I am using................

Magid Safety HeaterBeater 97KGT Hot Mill Gloves | 24 oz. Cotton Canvas Hot Mill Gloves with a 5" Gauntlet Cuff - Large, Off-White (12 Pairs)

Copy and Paste on Amazon's site. Good reviews, too. Unlike the same manufactures, thinner offering.
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
Winelover,
Oh, no!!, decaffeinated Costco coffee?

We drink the real stuff. I save the cans, remove the label and use them for cast bullet and brass storage.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Winelover,
Oh, no!!, decaffeinated Costco coffee?

We drink the real stuff. I save the cans, remove the label and use them for cast bullet and brass storage.

Never drank decaffeinated coffee...........probable got that can from the MIL. In fact, I don't drink canned ground coffee. I buy whole beans , on line from: www.CoffeeAM.com
 
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Ian

Notorious member
The Ove Glove is for the hand that holds the mould handles. I used to get deep tissue heat damage to tje web of my hand and base of index finger running heavy brass moulds hot with Lee handles. After 45 minutes to an hour the heat really sneaks up on you and starts killing cells. The extra cush and grip of the OG is great for when ya gotta whack the pivot bolt with a mallet, something which with a thin glove is in and of itself fatiguing to tendons and cartilage after a few hundred repetitions.

The sprue hand glove needs to be thinner and preferably fairly smooth for wiping smears, picking up dropped sprues, handling a Q-tip, mallet, etc.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Wood is a pretty good insulator. Why would the mould hand get hotter than the hand that opens the hot sprue plate?confused-face-smiley-emoticon.gif

Sorry, I have to maintain balance....................thus matching gloves are required. 12014.jpg
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
My daughter in-law does some glass blowing and handles the hot glass with Kevlar gloves . I've cast many times with the rubber palmed cut protection gloves . They fit like knit gloves and are quite thin the rubber gets hot and makes sweat , which results in hot water . The gloves she uses have thick palms and thin backs so they disipate heat much better . I hate gloves but I could I think wear those for an extended session because they fit well and run fairly cool .
 

Bisley

Active Member
Here's what I re-set up after a five year hiatus. It's a wooden table at about sitting height, just outside the garage. Lee 20-lb dip furnace at the left, rubber mallet sprue-knocker, Lyman ladle at the bottom, drawer to catch sprues and pour them back in. Teaspoon and pliers (in the box) to stir the pot. The mold is an old Lyman single-cavity without air vents, throwing 454190 at a nice plump .455 inch.

IMG_1933 (3).jpg

Now I have to get the GFCI outlet immediately adjacent to the table repaired so I can put the extension cords away. The table is about 30 inches high, 30 inches wide and about 36 inches long. The smaller children's table is of solid construction, but I did not use it. The whole thing runs in and out of the garage in about five minutes.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Wood is a pretty good insulator. Why would the mould hand get hotter than the hand that opens the hot sprue plate?

Because one hand holds the mould constantly and the weight puts a lot of pressure on the hand, and the one that opens the sprue plate touches it for about .2 seconds every 15-30.