Modifying a Miroku (Winchester and Browning) High Wall ejector

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
I have a Browning 1885 High Wall in .38-55 and several of my shooting buddies have the Winchester version in .32-40. When Miroku built these, the completely changed the trigger mechanism. Heaven knows why. The originals were pretty bullet proof. Don Hamilton called the Miroku trigger assembly a 7th grade shop project. Anyway, in addition to the trigger mods, they added an ejector. The centerfire High Walls never had an ejector. Only the .22 rifles had ejectors.

The ejector shoots the empty case out of the action like it was launched with a slingshot. That may be fine for somebody hunting with modern calibers. But anyone shooting old straight wall cases is sure not going to eject them on the ground and leave them. They probably would not want to even drop them on the ground for fear of damaging the case.

The original Browning BPCR rifles did not have the ejector, only an extractor. But it appears that the extractor, which is the same piece used in the ejector, was designed to be held down after the action is open to allow a new cartridges to slip over it. It then slips under the rim because it is spring loaded when the action is closed. With just the extractor feature, that extractor does not have spring pushing it down and the rim hits it when you chamber a round.

If you breech seat, this becomes somewhat of a juggling act because you have to either push the extractor down or push the case home as you start to close the lever. For my 86 year old shooting partner, this is a bit of a struggle. What I did with my .38-55 was replace the orginal ejector spring with a much lighter one I had in my stash of springs. It kept the ejector functioning as designed, but now does not kick the case out of the chamber more than an inch or so. It also keeps the extractor all the way down so you can insert a case all the way without the rim catching on the extractor.

I went to the hardware store and checked their spring assortment. They had a spring that looks like it was made for this. I picked up 2, put one in my partner's rifle, which I have hear and will install the other in my buddy's rifle at the match on Sunday.

If you would like to do this mod, it's a 2 minute job.

Remove the forearm. Ejector assembly is on the left side just ahead of the action.
While compressing the spring plunger, rotate the release arm down and then take it off its pivot pin. You can now remove the spring, plunger and spring block. Put the new spring on the plunger, insert it into the spring block and put it back in place over the ejector rod.
Now compress the spring and plunger while you put the release arm back onto the pivot pin.
Rotate the arm so it enters the spring block and then make sure the nose of the plunger enters the mating hole in the upper short arm of the release arm.
You are done.

The terms to describe the parts are mine. So, if you look at a parts diagram, they are probably going to be different. But the system is so damn simple that nomenclature should not cause confusion.

If anyone struggles with this, I'll take my rifle apart and take some pics.
 

Ian

Notorious member
If I ever get around to making one of these from scratch, I'll be certain to use JMB's original design, for which I have detailed blueprints somewhere.
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
If I ever get around to making one of these from scratch, I'll be certain to use JMB's original design, for which I have detailed blueprints somewhere.
Winchester actually made some changes to the original 1878 design by Browning before they made their 1885 model. And if you have dwgs, somebody else drew them. A complete set of original engineering dwgs have yet to be found.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Winchester actually made some changes to the original 1878 design by Browning before they made their 1885 model. And if you have dwgs, somebody else drew them. A complete set of original engineering dwgs have yet to be found.

Well, by the time I get through hacking one out of bar stock out I'm pretty sure none of the parts will be interchangeable with an original anyhow ;)
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
When Wyoming Armory rebuilt my Model 1885 .22 target rifle they suggested removing the ejector and replacing it with an extractor so the .22 cartridge was better and more uniformly supported against the firing pin blow. With the tight match chamber the empty is difficult to get out especially when I have the Fecker scope mounted. I made what I call a "flicker" out of a piece of plastic cut from a Wolf .22 ammo box. I use a paper punch to make a semi circular hole in one end of a 3" long by 3/8" wide strip of the plastic. I snap the notch over the partially extracted case and lift or flick it out. A friend with a Uberti Low Wall .22 saw my flicker and made a nice one of brass with a turned and stained hard maple handle. I have about 6 plastic ones lying around, but nothing classy like his.
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
When Wyoming Armory rebuilt my Model 1885 .22 target rifle they suggested removing the ejector and replacing it with an extractor so the .22 cartridge was better and more uniformly supported against the firing pin blow. With the tight match chamber the empty is difficult to get out especially when I have the Fecker scope mounted. I made what I call a "flicker" out of a piece of plastic cut from a Wolf .22 ammo box. I use a paper punch to make a semi circular hole in one end of a 3" long by 3/8" wide strip of the plastic. I snap the notch over the partially extracted case and lift or flick it out. A friend with a Uberti Low Wall .22 saw my flicker and made a nice one of brass with a turned and stained hard maple handle. I have about 6 plastic ones lying around, but nothing classy like his.
My Low Wall in .22 gave me a similar problem. I bought the rifle off Gunlist many years ago and when it arrived the bore was gone. Seller apologized and sent me a check to discount the rifle. I sent the rifle to Sonny France and he rebarreled it with an original Winchester octagon barrel and then relined it to .22 LR. I had him put a match chamber in the rifle. The ejector spring was long gone so it would only extract and that became a PITA. I made a similar "flicker" out of a popsicle stick and another from a piece of 1/16" aluminum. Both did the job. I then decided I wanted the ejector feature. I tried to find the spring, but nobody had them. I've since found them. But anyway, after staring at some pictures of the spring and figuring out how the ejector worked, I bent up a spring from spring wire I had from doing trigger jobs on S&W and Colt's in years past. It works pretty good. But some brands want to stick where others just get flung out. I might put the correct spring in there to see if it makes a difference.

I am surprised to hear that they told you the extractor was different from the ejector. As far as I know, The extractor used on the centerfires and the ejector used on the rim fires is the same piece. Maybe they had an in-house mod that made the extractor smaller for better case support. Where the cases bulge is where the extractor is relief cut for the firing pin so dry firing won't peen over the rim cut.