Mp 452 374

[Brad]

Look at the lower outside corner of your firing pin atop. It likely has a large radius where it contacts the hammer when the slide recoils. That large radius makes racking the slide with the hammer down easier.
Original had a very small radius, just a broken corner really. This means more force is required to cock hammer. It slows recoil and makes a big difference in how recoil is felt.
I got an oversized firing pin stop and had to fit it.

 

[Ian]

Brad speaks the truth. With a correct firing pin stop, the action stays locked up longer and keeps the slide from battering the frame which is really helpful if you run heavy bullets or slower powders, and mitigates felt recoil significantly. No need for an extra-heavy slide return spring either (notice I didn't call it a "recoil spring", because it isn't. The hammer spring actually serves that function, provided that the firing pin stop bears on the hammer with the appropriate level of mechanical disadvantage.)

 

[358156 hp]

I have one on each 1911, one thing to watch for is that there are different FP stops for Series 80 vs Series 70. There are also special short FP stops for slides with low mounted rear sights like BoMars.

Slide Parts - 1911 Parts

www.egwguns.com

Sorry I'm late. I didn't realize we had drifted into 1911s yet

 

[Ian]

Heck, I'm surprised we haven't drifted to cam phasers or woodworking by now

 

[CZ93X62]

Nice, John Browning-esque GI Ball bullet form on those castings.

I have been binge-shooting A BUNCH of 45 ACP and 45 A/R of late. There is quite a pile of nice clean brass in the garage awaiting refill. Some of both case types will get Lyman #452374 just for grins, a thing I meant to get around to today. Not quite, I started messing with my fishing reels a bit and that turned into A Project. Things happen, when I am left to my own devices--and Penn reels are devices I like a lot. The brass will be there tomorrow.

 

[freebullet]

Thanks guys. I do remeber the thread when Brad did his fitting. I will check the fit on ours. Not likely to mod it though.

It's a 1918 usp marked colt. Been refinished so makes for a dandy shooter. It was having some hangup with my Lee 200fn & I didn't want to change stuff. This mold , approximating the ball bullet ok(little longer/skinny) will hopefully put the old girl in action.

I did get a bunch of the gi lip checkmate mags for it to. I try to pay attention.

 

[Ian]

Since dirty rags with years of use on them are "in" these days, and all prior attempts to drift this thread have been unsuccessful...

 

[freebullet]

I have that one, yet to be used.

I been known to drift away & like pictures.

 

[358156 hp]

I'm working towards Ians example with a 4 cavity MP 452374 brass mould. I'm a bit astonished at how hot that mould needs to be run for good results, especially with 1:40 alloy & hollowpoints. I remelted the entire first batch because of wrinkles, then changed the mould over to RN configuration and ran it bottom pour as fast as I could to see if I could take some of the fight out of it. Now it's time to try 1:40 again. BTW, it needed to have the block parting line beveled slightly for venting.