New Caster

Ian

Notorious member
I've said many time about many different jobs that the correct tool is often more valuable than the highest quality tool. A $10 Buffalo gear puller is often better than $350 worth of Snap-On prybars. I can buy a lot more cheap, correct tools at HF (or Lee Precision) than anywhere else. Also, for tools that will be modified, I'm a lot more likely to hone out a Lee die or de-gas-check a Lee mould or take a torch to a HF end wrench than a Snap-On or Accurate.
 
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Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Interesting . . . A discussion of LEE molds is now a discussion of ALL things tools.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
you expected something different from this crowd?

I had been casting jeez for well over 20 years before I got my first aluminum mold [can't recall if it was a Rapine or a NEI] and closer to 30 before I ventured a LEE mold.
now I got 2 of them.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
you expected something different from this crowd?

From LEE molds to Snap-On mechanics tools and in the same paragraph no less. Those Lee molds are quite the deal because after all Lamborghini makes cars.


confused-face-smiley-emoticon.gif
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Hey, you poked the bear.... :rofl:

Nope . . . All I said was that I had bought my last LEE mold. Never said anyone else should or shouldn't. Never even said why, only that I had bought my last one. Nor was it me that compared LEE molds with Snap-On tools.

I'll admit to a certain satisfaction that 20-25 years ago I bought a LEE mold and it was my last one. ;)
 

Ian

Notorious member
And all I said was I probably wouldn't have gotten so heavy into casting if it hadn't been for the availability of a cheap furnace.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Well dang, if I would have had to start with a LEE casting pot or LEE molds I couldn't even have started casting.

What year did LEE start? I should have waited. o_O
 

popper

Well-Known Member
Qtip to the sprue plate and bolt,top of mould blocks and alignment pins when hot. THEN wipe down with a paper towel. Lube should be just visible! Rotate the mould, open, drop and close and close sprue plate WHILE upside down. Less chance of alloy smears damaging the top of the block. Mold is usually sideways when I cut the sprue (gloved hand) anyway and the sprue drop into catch pan. I find sprue plate temp more critical than mould temp - hard to keep it hot.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
Oh, my goodness, 462! Our next door neighbor in Napoli had a 1970 Miura, burnt orange. His garage man
would warm it up for him when he was going to drive it. Just across the narrow street/alley, which my bedroom
window adjoined, so about 25 ft away. At least two or three Saturday mornings, I was awakened from a
sound sleep at 8 or 9 am (Saturday) by the sound of the Miura's V-12, rrrrrr-whooof, raaaap, raaaap, raaap, raaap - as he blipped
the throttle to warm up the oil. On several occasions, I dressed quickly and popped out to almost literally
drool over the car. This was 1971 and the Miura was absolute king of the car hill, at least in my book for a
street car. The garage man several times opened the rear bodywork to reveal the four triple Webers and
the gorgeous ribbed aluminum heads, block and transaxle, all an integrated sidewinder V12 unit. He let me
look closely inside, too. I told him, once all was quiet and we could talk - "Bella macchina! Bellisimo!, signore."
"Macchina da corsa!" "Fantastico" (My fairly limited Italian - "Pretty (or nice) car! Beautiful, sir. A racing car.
Fantastic or great")

Fond memories, even nearing half a century ago.

I am pretty sure nobody compared Lee molds to Snap On tools. More to HF tools, good enough most
of the time for non-pro use. I REALLY needed a 1000 ft-lb 3/4" drive air impact, and could in no way
justify the price of a good one. I could swing the $95 on sale with discount HF price and it did the
job.

Bill
 
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Dr. Mac

New Member
Hi guys. I’m a newbie, but lovin’ every minute of it. Considering the state of our Union I call call my cast bullets “freedom pills”. As some more experienced casters have said, my biggest problem was getting my moulds hot enough. After that casting at 720-750F was a breeze. I’m now searching for the best hard lube for 1800-2000 FPS with .35 and 9.3 cal rifle bullets. Started with Orange Magic but find it a little messy to work with. Any suggestions? Blue Angel or Carnuba Red???