New RCBS Pro Melt 2

[dannyd]

Starting my Journey as soon as RCBS sends me the right part. It comes with a drip and they have a new part to stop it. This unit is more of a Lee Pot instead of the old Pro Melt.

 

[Rick]

Interesting, I didn't know they had changed it except for the PID unit. Is it really a LEE pot other than the color? Kind of strange that RCBS of all people would do that.

 

[GRMPS]

 

[dannyd]

side view

 

[Rick]

Ah . . . Now I recognize it.

 

[dannyd]

I had a Pro Melt 30 years ago and this is not anywhere close to that one. So, if you buy one remember that. But I love new reloading things just like young ladies like shoes.

 

[Kevin Stenberg]

When my Lee 4-20 gave out. I tried looking at both the Lyman and RCBS. But i couldn't justify the price for either one versus a new Lee. I have to pinch every penny i can.
I will say that the new 4-20's are much better than my old one's.

 

[dannyd]

Well got the new part, will give it a try tomorrow. PSA: if you get this pot make sure you have Metric hex wrenches because the screws are Metric.

 

[Pistolero]

Oh, yeah you can see that they are entirely different.......

Are they pulling your leg? Or am I missing something in the photo?
They look like they came off the screw machine one behind the other to me.

Bill

 

[358156 hp]

The new one appears to have a different taper in the seating area to me, and that area appears to be a little shorter. The main body diameter seems a bit larger, but that could be an optical delusion

 

[dannyd]

Well, RCBS should have called this a Super Lee Pot and not a pro melt. The PID sensor is in the bottom of the pot. That's not going to work well, so you will also need your regular gauge. Once got everything setup worked okay. The cool down is a pain. Takes about 30 min. with about 1 inch of lead and fan blowing on it.

 

[Rick]

Center bottom is exactly where the thermocouple is supposed to be. Even on the Magma that's where it is. It's the electronics that need to be kept insulated from the heat.

 

[dannyd]

Center bottom is exactly where the thermocouple is supposed to be. Even on the Magma that's where it is. It's the electronics that need to be kept insulated from the heat.

How do you ever get the temperature right between top and bottom. I was at 720 on the PID and 550 to 600 at the top. Nozzle would not work. My PID thermocouple probe goes in the top and works fine on Lee 4-20. The Lyman mag 25 kept good temperature too.

 

[Rick]

Heating element is wrapped around the sides of the pot, placing the thermocouple anywhere near there would give false readings. Same as placing it at or near the top of the pot. By placing it center bottom readings will be more uniform. PID on my Magma reads temp correctly and without any issues. The thermocouple has a nut welded on the outside of the pot center bottom. I know it's there cause I put it there per Magma's written instructions. The thermocouple is secured to that nut with a machine screw. Haven't looked at the Lyman Mag 25 but I would be willing to bet the thermocouple is attached center bottom just like the Magma and the RCBS.

 

[Ian]

The only problem I see is the electronicals being mounted to something that will melt them to goo without a fan.

Here's a shot of the dipper pot innards. Zip ties and hot glue.

The temperature probe connects to the PID with ring terminals, which means the leads can be extended. Same with the heating element wires provided some high-temp braided wire is used to extend them. The PID head and SSR can be put somewhere else, like in another steel box two feet away from the hot furnace. I don't think you'd need the cooling fan at all but it could be transferred too along with its power supply to the new control box. The back half of the pot housing could be cut off and thrown away and the back feet remounted to save space (in the case of the dipper pot like mine).

 

[Ian]

Here's where the temp probe connects: Directly to the heating element. I'm really regretting mot having just bought another Lee Pro 4-20, my first one still works fine and holds temp after 12 years, but the screws keep working out of the guide rod support and I've re-staked the aluminum channels for them as many times as they'll suffer.

 

[Brad]

Separate box for PID controller? Like this?

 

[Ian]

Yeah, exactly like that.

 

[Pistolero]

Does the new ProMelt COME WITH THE PID? Or did the user put the PID in the case himself?
I saw it in the first pic, assumed it was a user installation.....and didn't like the idea of electronics in
the same box as gets super hot right next to it. I agree that the electronics will live a lot longer when
cooler in a separate box.

Bill

 

[mattw]

Not sure I like the way they take the temperature, they are directly controlling the element and not the melt temperature. I use a long K type and it is submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of my 1984 Pro Melt.