Elric
Well-Known Member
NOTE: Sperm Oil is NOT currently available -OR- legal. The substiture is ATF fluid.
NOTE: Play with carbon tetrachloride at your own risk... I would personally avoid it.
Bullet Lubricants
Handloader’s Manual by Earl Naramore
Small Arms Technical Publishing Company, Plantersville, South Carolina, Sept 1937
Pages 207-213
Bullet Lubricants
Of the materials most suitable for making bullet lubricant for reloading purposes the following are the most common; Japan wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, ozokerite, cerasine wax, tallow, paraffin, petroleum jelly or vaseline, and automobile cup greases of which there are a variety. Vaseline and cup grease arc related and because of their softness arc best used as softening agents for the harder waxes. The first five waxes arc all excellent bases for bullet lubricant but all of them are too hard to work through the lubricating and sizing machines unless they are softened by the addition of other substances.
A brief description of these and a few other commonly available materials follows:
Ozokerite.
Ozokerite or earth wax, as it is commonly called, is a mineral wax that is dug out of the ground. It is a sort of crude paraffin and varies in color from a light to a very dark brown. In its natural state, it varies greatly in consistency also, being found in some places as a soft wax and in others as a dense hard substance. Ozokerite forms the base of most of the commercial lubricants of a brown color that are sold for reloading purposes. Its natural differences in hardness are reflected in the consistency of the refined wax and it is necessary to vary the quantity of softening agents used with it according to the hardness of the particular lot of ozokerite that one gets. The melting point varies widely with the consistency or from 58 °C. to 100°C. Presumably the combustion point varies as well and I have known a ripple of complaints of leading to follow the distribution of a new lot of lubricant made from this substance.
Cerasine Wax.
Cerasine is ozokerite refined by drastic treatment which clarifies it considerably and renders it from a light yellow color to nearly white. It is closely related to paraffin and, like it, lacks the tackyness to make it stick in the bullet grooves. It varies in consistency and the amount of softening material used with it must be varied also. Cerasine is commonly used as an adulterant for beeswax and is sometimes colored and sold as beeswax or as beeswax substitute. It is a good lubricant and there is nothing to worry about if you happen to get cerasine wax when you think you are getting beeswax. The melting point varies between 61 °C. and 78°C., which is not as wide a spread as its parent, ozokerite.
Cerasine wax is the lubricant used on Filmkote and Kleenkote .22 Long Rifle bullets. Being one of the most inert if not the most inert wax there is, it does not have much tendency to pick up grit. These bullets are lubricated by a process patented by Mr. Pedersen, the designer of the .276 Pedersen automatic rifle that was under test by the Ordnance Department a few years ago. In general the process consists of dissolving the proper amount of cerasine wax in heated carbon tetrachloride and with the solution held at the exact temperature necessary, the bullets are dipped. The time they remain in the solution is very important for if removed too quickly, the coating of wax will not only be too heavy but it will chip off easily. It is quite a trick to do even with the proper temperature control and entirely impracticable without special facilities. When the bullets are removed from the solution, the tetrachloride volatilizes out leaving a thin and almost imperceptible film of wax on the bullet.
The Pedersen automatic rifle operated on the delayed blow-back principle and did not function too well with dry cartridge cases, especially if the cases were hard and did not stretch much, as the setback of the case was necessary to good functioning. As a dry case normally grips the chamber walls, Mr. Pedersen developed this method for lubricating the entire cartridge with cerasine. The thin coating left by his process was not noticeable, did not pick up dirt readily and the chamber heat caused the wax to melt, affording perfect lubrication and certain functioning. The use of this wax in such a thin coating on Cal. .22 bullets offers a good example of its excellent lubricating properties.
Heel-Ball.
This is the black, waxy residue obtained from the refinement of cerasine and it is ordinarily used to give a polished finish to the heels of shoes. It is obtainable in almost any community but whether or not it is any good for bullet lubricant I do not know as I have never been driven to the extreme of using it. As it is really the dregs of ozokerite, I suspect that its lubricating properties are limited.
Carnauba Wax.
This is a vegetable wax obtained from a species of palm tree found in Brazil and some other tropical countries. It is dark in color, almost black, and quite hard. Its lubricating properties are good. The melting point varies between 72.5°C. and 85°C. Carnauba wax, because of its hardness and the lack of a tendency to pick up grit, makes a good lubricant for outside lubricated bullets.
Beeswax.
This wax is too well known to require description here. It makes a good bullet lubricant and is obtainable almost everywhere. Although beeswax is often adulterated with cerasine, this makes no difference as cerasine is excellent as a lubricant. Beeswax is “stickier” than cerasine wax and requires less softening than the latter to make it stick to the bullets. The melting point of unadulterated beeswax is 67.2°C. A time honored bullet lubricant can be made from beeswax, by adding enough machine oil to make it the desired consistency. The machine oil should be kept to the minimum necessary to do this, as in the hot sun there is a tendency for the oil to exude and it may seep down into the powder if there is an excess present.
Japan Wax.
This is a vegetable wax obtained from an oriental tree and it is an excellent bullet lubricant. It runs fairly uniform in consistency with a melting point from 55°C. to 60°C. The specifications for the U. S. Cal. .30 gallery practice cartridge, which was loaded with a lead alloy bullet, called for pure Japan wax as the bullet lubricant and it has also been used by the commercial ammunition manufacturers for lubricating lead bullets. The pure wax is too hard to work through the Bond and Ideal lubricators and sizers, but it can be softened with vaseline or sperm oil
Tallow.
Tallow is an animal fat with excellent lubricating properties but, in common with other animal fats, it is liable to become rancid in warm climates. It varies in consistency and is so soft that it can seldom be used as a softening agent for the waxes except in cold climates. Its melting point is from 42.5 °C to 46°C., which is only a little over 100°F. and ammunition often attains this temperature when exposed to the sun in temperate and tropical climates. Under the influence of warmth, tallow liquefies and the resultant ooze is liable to work down into the powder and primer. But in this respect, tallow should not be compared with oil as a softener for the waxes. Tallow is a solid at ordinary living temperatures while oil is a liquid and consequently, oil is much quicker to exude under the influence of heat than tallow. Put a piece of tallow on a sheet of paper where it is exposed to the rays of the sun and in a short time there will be a grease spot on the paper but a drop of oil will permeate the paper at once. Tallow is better than oil for a softener, except under conditions where it is likely to go rancid.
Paraffin.
Paraffin is a white mineral wax of good lubricating properties and is related to ozokerite and cerasine. Like all mineral waxes, paraffin does not have the tendency to stick to bullets like some of the true waxes have. The use of paraffin is indicated where a bullet lubricating mixture is too soft and sticky. A small amount of it added to the mixture will harden it and reduce the tackyness. Melting point 55°C.
Petroleum Jelly.
Otherwise known as vaseline. It is of the same general chemical composition as paraffin but much softer and is one of the best substances for softening waxes. Being a mineral product, it will not turn rancid, it has good lubricating properties and, as its melting point is fairly high, it is not so likely to exude into the powder charge as is mineral oil.
Machine Oil.
A mineral oil related to the mineral waxes and may be used sparingly with them as a softener. It combines better with them than with animal or vegetable waxes. Being normally a liquid, there is a tendency for mineral oil to seep out of bullet lubricant under the influence of warmth and this is especially true if the lubricant has a vegetable or animal wax base. Being of mineral origin, it combines better with the mineral waxes.
Castor Oil.
This is a well known lubricating oil of vegetable origin and can be used as a softener for the vegetable waxes, but tallow or vaseline are cheaper and work very well.
Sperm Oil.
Real sperm oil is in reality a true wax in spite of its name and liquid form. Its excellent lubricating properties arc well known and it serves well as a softener for the animal waxes. But much of the so called sperm oil on the market is either adulterated or is a downright substitution of a certain kind of fish oil. It can be relied upon to be the real thing only when purchased from a reliable dealer. However, it doesn’t make much difference whether it is pure or not for, when oil of any kind is used as a softener, only a small amount is required. It is the wax base of the lubricant that does most of the business, so there is not much object in being too fussy about the oil when the latter is used as a softener.
Graphite.
Graphite is neither a wax nor a grease but it is a good lubricant if used judiciously. Flake graphite is not suitable for use in bullet lubricant and the finest powdered form available should be used and used sparingly. Ten per cent by volume added to the lubricant is sufficient and an excess should be avoided, as too much will build up in lumps in the barrel. The graphite should be stirred into the melted lubricant and the stirring continued until the mixture cools, to prevent the graphite from settling to the bottom. This method of mixing will not always result in an even distribution of graphite through the mass and it is better to work the cold lubricant with a fork. Putting it through a meat chopper several times has also been recommended but I suggest the fork, if you want to remain on good terms with the cook. Graphite lubricant can only be used satisfactorily in a lubricating and sizing press. If it is melted, the graphite will settle to the bottom. The effect of the graphite, if it happens to work properly, is to leave a thin coating on the inside of the bore and as it will stand very high temperatures, there is no danger of its burning off. It should not be understood from this that graphite in the lubricant will certainly prevent leading and—if it is not used correctly, its questionable benefits will not offset the mess and bother of making it.
Factory lead bullets are often tumbled in graphite and pick up a thin surface coating of it, this probably helps somewhat to prevent these bullets from leading. About the best that can be expected from a lubricant containing graphite is, that the coating it may leave in the bore will about equal the light coating that is on the factory bullets. As long as there is a film between the bullet and the barrel, it makes little difference whether it is on the bullet or the barrel.
Colloidal Graphite.
This is a substance that has appeared on the market quite recently. It is merely graphite which is so finely divided that it remains in suspension in the vehicle with which it is mixed. Lubricants containing this are much superior to those made with the ordinary powdered graphites, as the colloidal graphite will remain in suspension even when the lubricant is melted. In fact, even when the lubricant is liquefied or cut with a suitable solvent, only a very small percentage of the graphite will settle to the bottom of a test tube. Aside from its colloidal nature, colloidal graphite is still graphite and should be used with discretion. An excess should be avoided.
Mixing Bullet Lubricants.
In discussing the various materials suitable for bullet lubricants, no attempt has been made to give specific formulas or mixtures. It is impracticable to do so as so much depends upon the consistency of the ingredients used. It is a simple matter to mix bullet lubricants. Melt the wax first and add a small amount of softener. Mix the mess thoroughly and pour a small amount onto a plate or other cold surface and let it cool well. Then scrape it off the plate and work it in your fingers. If it is too hard when you try to work it, or if it is slippery arid docs not stick to your fingers, add more softener and repeat the process. If it is too soft and sticky, add more wax. Remember that the hardness of a lubricant depends upon the way it is worked and the more you work it, the softer it will become, up to a certain limit, of course. But a lubricant that seems to be quite hard when you touch it after it has cooled, may be rather soft after it is worked. Squeezing the lubricant through the holes in a lubricator die works it considerably and you must make allowances for this when mixing the ingredients. A lubricant that may seem to be just right to the touch, once it has cooled will probably be too soft after it is forced through the lubricator. The whole business is a case of “cut and try.”
NOTE: Play with carbon tetrachloride at your own risk... I would personally avoid it.
Bullet Lubricants
Handloader’s Manual by Earl Naramore
Small Arms Technical Publishing Company, Plantersville, South Carolina, Sept 1937
Pages 207-213
Bullet Lubricants
Of the materials most suitable for making bullet lubricant for reloading purposes the following are the most common; Japan wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, ozokerite, cerasine wax, tallow, paraffin, petroleum jelly or vaseline, and automobile cup greases of which there are a variety. Vaseline and cup grease arc related and because of their softness arc best used as softening agents for the harder waxes. The first five waxes arc all excellent bases for bullet lubricant but all of them are too hard to work through the lubricating and sizing machines unless they are softened by the addition of other substances.
A brief description of these and a few other commonly available materials follows:
Ozokerite.
Ozokerite or earth wax, as it is commonly called, is a mineral wax that is dug out of the ground. It is a sort of crude paraffin and varies in color from a light to a very dark brown. In its natural state, it varies greatly in consistency also, being found in some places as a soft wax and in others as a dense hard substance. Ozokerite forms the base of most of the commercial lubricants of a brown color that are sold for reloading purposes. Its natural differences in hardness are reflected in the consistency of the refined wax and it is necessary to vary the quantity of softening agents used with it according to the hardness of the particular lot of ozokerite that one gets. The melting point varies widely with the consistency or from 58 °C. to 100°C. Presumably the combustion point varies as well and I have known a ripple of complaints of leading to follow the distribution of a new lot of lubricant made from this substance.
Cerasine Wax.
Cerasine is ozokerite refined by drastic treatment which clarifies it considerably and renders it from a light yellow color to nearly white. It is closely related to paraffin and, like it, lacks the tackyness to make it stick in the bullet grooves. It varies in consistency and the amount of softening material used with it must be varied also. Cerasine is commonly used as an adulterant for beeswax and is sometimes colored and sold as beeswax or as beeswax substitute. It is a good lubricant and there is nothing to worry about if you happen to get cerasine wax when you think you are getting beeswax. The melting point varies between 61 °C. and 78°C., which is not as wide a spread as its parent, ozokerite.
Cerasine wax is the lubricant used on Filmkote and Kleenkote .22 Long Rifle bullets. Being one of the most inert if not the most inert wax there is, it does not have much tendency to pick up grit. These bullets are lubricated by a process patented by Mr. Pedersen, the designer of the .276 Pedersen automatic rifle that was under test by the Ordnance Department a few years ago. In general the process consists of dissolving the proper amount of cerasine wax in heated carbon tetrachloride and with the solution held at the exact temperature necessary, the bullets are dipped. The time they remain in the solution is very important for if removed too quickly, the coating of wax will not only be too heavy but it will chip off easily. It is quite a trick to do even with the proper temperature control and entirely impracticable without special facilities. When the bullets are removed from the solution, the tetrachloride volatilizes out leaving a thin and almost imperceptible film of wax on the bullet.
The Pedersen automatic rifle operated on the delayed blow-back principle and did not function too well with dry cartridge cases, especially if the cases were hard and did not stretch much, as the setback of the case was necessary to good functioning. As a dry case normally grips the chamber walls, Mr. Pedersen developed this method for lubricating the entire cartridge with cerasine. The thin coating left by his process was not noticeable, did not pick up dirt readily and the chamber heat caused the wax to melt, affording perfect lubrication and certain functioning. The use of this wax in such a thin coating on Cal. .22 bullets offers a good example of its excellent lubricating properties.
Heel-Ball.
This is the black, waxy residue obtained from the refinement of cerasine and it is ordinarily used to give a polished finish to the heels of shoes. It is obtainable in almost any community but whether or not it is any good for bullet lubricant I do not know as I have never been driven to the extreme of using it. As it is really the dregs of ozokerite, I suspect that its lubricating properties are limited.
Carnauba Wax.
This is a vegetable wax obtained from a species of palm tree found in Brazil and some other tropical countries. It is dark in color, almost black, and quite hard. Its lubricating properties are good. The melting point varies between 72.5°C. and 85°C. Carnauba wax, because of its hardness and the lack of a tendency to pick up grit, makes a good lubricant for outside lubricated bullets.
Beeswax.
This wax is too well known to require description here. It makes a good bullet lubricant and is obtainable almost everywhere. Although beeswax is often adulterated with cerasine, this makes no difference as cerasine is excellent as a lubricant. Beeswax is “stickier” than cerasine wax and requires less softening than the latter to make it stick to the bullets. The melting point of unadulterated beeswax is 67.2°C. A time honored bullet lubricant can be made from beeswax, by adding enough machine oil to make it the desired consistency. The machine oil should be kept to the minimum necessary to do this, as in the hot sun there is a tendency for the oil to exude and it may seep down into the powder if there is an excess present.
Japan Wax.
This is a vegetable wax obtained from an oriental tree and it is an excellent bullet lubricant. It runs fairly uniform in consistency with a melting point from 55°C. to 60°C. The specifications for the U. S. Cal. .30 gallery practice cartridge, which was loaded with a lead alloy bullet, called for pure Japan wax as the bullet lubricant and it has also been used by the commercial ammunition manufacturers for lubricating lead bullets. The pure wax is too hard to work through the Bond and Ideal lubricators and sizers, but it can be softened with vaseline or sperm oil
Tallow.
Tallow is an animal fat with excellent lubricating properties but, in common with other animal fats, it is liable to become rancid in warm climates. It varies in consistency and is so soft that it can seldom be used as a softening agent for the waxes except in cold climates. Its melting point is from 42.5 °C to 46°C., which is only a little over 100°F. and ammunition often attains this temperature when exposed to the sun in temperate and tropical climates. Under the influence of warmth, tallow liquefies and the resultant ooze is liable to work down into the powder and primer. But in this respect, tallow should not be compared with oil as a softener for the waxes. Tallow is a solid at ordinary living temperatures while oil is a liquid and consequently, oil is much quicker to exude under the influence of heat than tallow. Put a piece of tallow on a sheet of paper where it is exposed to the rays of the sun and in a short time there will be a grease spot on the paper but a drop of oil will permeate the paper at once. Tallow is better than oil for a softener, except under conditions where it is likely to go rancid.
Paraffin.
Paraffin is a white mineral wax of good lubricating properties and is related to ozokerite and cerasine. Like all mineral waxes, paraffin does not have the tendency to stick to bullets like some of the true waxes have. The use of paraffin is indicated where a bullet lubricating mixture is too soft and sticky. A small amount of it added to the mixture will harden it and reduce the tackyness. Melting point 55°C.
Petroleum Jelly.
Otherwise known as vaseline. It is of the same general chemical composition as paraffin but much softer and is one of the best substances for softening waxes. Being a mineral product, it will not turn rancid, it has good lubricating properties and, as its melting point is fairly high, it is not so likely to exude into the powder charge as is mineral oil.
Machine Oil.
A mineral oil related to the mineral waxes and may be used sparingly with them as a softener. It combines better with them than with animal or vegetable waxes. Being normally a liquid, there is a tendency for mineral oil to seep out of bullet lubricant under the influence of warmth and this is especially true if the lubricant has a vegetable or animal wax base. Being of mineral origin, it combines better with the mineral waxes.
Castor Oil.
This is a well known lubricating oil of vegetable origin and can be used as a softener for the vegetable waxes, but tallow or vaseline are cheaper and work very well.
Sperm Oil.
Real sperm oil is in reality a true wax in spite of its name and liquid form. Its excellent lubricating properties arc well known and it serves well as a softener for the animal waxes. But much of the so called sperm oil on the market is either adulterated or is a downright substitution of a certain kind of fish oil. It can be relied upon to be the real thing only when purchased from a reliable dealer. However, it doesn’t make much difference whether it is pure or not for, when oil of any kind is used as a softener, only a small amount is required. It is the wax base of the lubricant that does most of the business, so there is not much object in being too fussy about the oil when the latter is used as a softener.
Graphite.
Graphite is neither a wax nor a grease but it is a good lubricant if used judiciously. Flake graphite is not suitable for use in bullet lubricant and the finest powdered form available should be used and used sparingly. Ten per cent by volume added to the lubricant is sufficient and an excess should be avoided, as too much will build up in lumps in the barrel. The graphite should be stirred into the melted lubricant and the stirring continued until the mixture cools, to prevent the graphite from settling to the bottom. This method of mixing will not always result in an even distribution of graphite through the mass and it is better to work the cold lubricant with a fork. Putting it through a meat chopper several times has also been recommended but I suggest the fork, if you want to remain on good terms with the cook. Graphite lubricant can only be used satisfactorily in a lubricating and sizing press. If it is melted, the graphite will settle to the bottom. The effect of the graphite, if it happens to work properly, is to leave a thin coating on the inside of the bore and as it will stand very high temperatures, there is no danger of its burning off. It should not be understood from this that graphite in the lubricant will certainly prevent leading and—if it is not used correctly, its questionable benefits will not offset the mess and bother of making it.
Factory lead bullets are often tumbled in graphite and pick up a thin surface coating of it, this probably helps somewhat to prevent these bullets from leading. About the best that can be expected from a lubricant containing graphite is, that the coating it may leave in the bore will about equal the light coating that is on the factory bullets. As long as there is a film between the bullet and the barrel, it makes little difference whether it is on the bullet or the barrel.
Colloidal Graphite.
This is a substance that has appeared on the market quite recently. It is merely graphite which is so finely divided that it remains in suspension in the vehicle with which it is mixed. Lubricants containing this are much superior to those made with the ordinary powdered graphites, as the colloidal graphite will remain in suspension even when the lubricant is melted. In fact, even when the lubricant is liquefied or cut with a suitable solvent, only a very small percentage of the graphite will settle to the bottom of a test tube. Aside from its colloidal nature, colloidal graphite is still graphite and should be used with discretion. An excess should be avoided.
Mixing Bullet Lubricants.
In discussing the various materials suitable for bullet lubricants, no attempt has been made to give specific formulas or mixtures. It is impracticable to do so as so much depends upon the consistency of the ingredients used. It is a simple matter to mix bullet lubricants. Melt the wax first and add a small amount of softener. Mix the mess thoroughly and pour a small amount onto a plate or other cold surface and let it cool well. Then scrape it off the plate and work it in your fingers. If it is too hard when you try to work it, or if it is slippery arid docs not stick to your fingers, add more softener and repeat the process. If it is too soft and sticky, add more wax. Remember that the hardness of a lubricant depends upon the way it is worked and the more you work it, the softer it will become, up to a certain limit, of course. But a lubricant that seems to be quite hard when you touch it after it has cooled, may be rather soft after it is worked. Squeezing the lubricant through the holes in a lubricator die works it considerably and you must make allowances for this when mixing the ingredients. A lubricant that may seem to be just right to the touch, once it has cooled will probably be too soft after it is forced through the lubricator. The whole business is a case of “cut and try.”