Picking up this old Glock. Questions about casting- loading for it.

[Mitty38]

Ok was not planning on this. Fact I hate Glocks and have no desire for a 40 .
But got an old Glock Gen 3 2 pin, with a cracked frame . Traded a bow for it, because I can no longer shoot a long bow accurately. Holding the draw is an issue for me.

I know myself too well.... so...I already know where I am going with this gun. So may as well get it over with.
So was just kinda wondering what mould works best for this, what alloy do you use for 40 , will unique and Red dot be OK for loading 40 caliber.And so forth.

 

[Petrol & Powder]

Cracked Frame ?

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

I shot allot of 40. I shoot allot of Glocks.

I dont do a SINGLE THING special for them. I powdercoat 98% of my cast.
If I had counted the round count thru my first 23 then 22 and now my 35 many would question the validity. Suffice it to say dont over think this its a firearm. Its a tool. Some work better then others but all wear with use. When a tool wears I replace it. Dont drink the koolaide. Enjoy your new gun!
CW

 

[CZ93X62]

Not gonna ask.

I haven't run cast bullets in my Glock 40 S&W or 10mm pistols--yet. I have thousands of rounds of cast 40 S&W through a Beretta, a couple S&Ws, and my CZ-75. The 40 S&W is just a fattened 9 x 19 Luger, the same powders will serve both calibers well--Bullseye/231 through Unique are my usual flavors, and my carry load duplicator (WWB 180 grain JHP) is the Lee 175 TC seated with .020" of front drive band above the case mouth atop 4.7 grains of WW-231.

Gen 3 Glock 40s don't "guppy" the brass as badly as the Gen 2s did.

I am 95% confident that the rap given to cast bullets causing Glock kBs is utter bullsquat. Reloaded guppied brass is my most likely culprit, the work-hardening of resizing those swollen areas weakens brass with repetition, and it will fail eventually. The Gen 3 chamber form ameliorates that guppy effect to a great extent.

I have remarked here about running some castings through the Glock 40s. I have kids that gift me 500-1000 Hornady 180 JHP bullets for Christmas and birthdays, and that annual stock-up only relents at times of shortage (like now).

 

[Rick H]

I run the Lee 401-175-TC conventional lube groove bullet in a Glock 23 and a S&W Shield. I got pretty bad leading with the Shield until I started powder coating. I load them warm to approximate WW factory 180's using Longshot or Power Pistol. My Shield shoots every bit as well as with factory ammo, accurate and 975 fps. out of the short barrel. They function in the Glock but I don't shoot it much. It is my old duty pistol and it pretty much retired when I did.

 

[Petrol & Powder]

I'm not a fan of the 40 S&W cartridge. Don't break out the tar & feathers, my personal likes and dislikes are just that, personal opinions.
I own exactly one pistol chambered in 40 S&W and it happens to be a Glock. However, I don't cast for it.

 

[Hawk]

Unique is my go to powder for my Glock Model 22s and 27s for most purposes.
I shoot a variety of cast bullets, but mostly 165 to 180 gr.
Accuracy is top notch.
I don't do anything special. Just load and shoot.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

I didnt mention. My choice in a bullet is the same LEE Rick has suggested. It works well in Factory and Lone Wolf as well as KKM barrels. Oddly my Shield40 dosent care for any cast bullets I have tried and I have at least 6 different molds...

Tight Group & Power Pistol make my competition loads.

That G35 shoots the LEE 145 with tight group @ 850 fos like a well oiled Singer sewing machine! But my PCC wont shoot it. Too short OAL so I tried the 175 TL bullet. But NONE of my guns would shoot it well!! I was given some of the Conventional lube groove 175's and they shot great so I bought a 6cav and been using it since. It shoots well in all but that Shield40.

Uncoated Lead in a Glock or stock Glock is something the Factory advises against. Having said that... I lean to it as a non problem when guns are properly maintained. But as I mentioned I powder Coat and doing so has been perfect. I clran the barrel and consistently find zero fouling.
CW

 

[Mitty38]

Cracked Frame ?

Yep he tried to do some upgrade stuff he saw on the net. Stippled it and used some wrong parts for a trigger job. So took the Dremel to the frame to fit. Soaked the poly frame in acetone and sprayed it with rubber tool coating. It cracked after about 5 rounds. You would really have to know this fellow to understand.
Well, He has indoor out door carpet for a headliner in his car.
He stripped then destroyed the frame, was going to E-Bay the other parts. Then along came Emmett.
So I had this old Kentucky Long Bow that needed stringing so.....
Traded me all the Factory parts plus all the aftermarket parts minus the Frame. This includes all the Factory frame parts and a wolf 40 Caliber barrel. The gun worked well before he touched it, and at the time he put the Lone Wolf barrel in it. So I know at least the factory upper parts and the aftermarket barrel are good.
My thoughts are build or buy a poly 80 frame cause I like the grip angle better then factory. Then figure out what parts are good , know the upper is for sure. Buy whatever he messed up. Then assemble.
Ye it is a rabbit hole.

 

[Petrol & Powder]

Yep he tried to do some upgrade stuff he saw on the net. Stippled it and used some wrong parts for a trigger job. So took the Dremel to the frame to fit. Soaked the poly frame in acetone and sprayed it with rubber tool coating. It cracked after about 5 rounds. You would really have to know this fellow to understand.
Well, He has indoor out door carpet for a headliner in his car.
He stripped then destroyed the frame, was going to E-Bay the other parts. Then along came Emmett.
So I had this old Kentucky Long Bow that needed stringing so.....
Traded me all the Factory parts plus all the aftermarket parts minus the Frame. This includes all the Factory frame parts and a wolf 40 Caliber barrel. The gun worked well before he touched it, and at the time he put the Lone Wolf barrel in it. So I know at least the factory upper parts and the aftermarket barrel are good.
My thoughts are build or buy a poly 80 frame cause I like the grip angle better then factory. Then figure out what parts are good , know the upper is for sure. Buy whatever he messed up. Then assemble.
Ye it is a rabbit hole.

Al Righty then.....

Sounds like you got an upper and some parts.
A frame will get you into business.

 

[CZ93X62]

Emmett's description of the abuse to that Glock frame will give me nightmares for at least a week. I'm glad he re-homed that pistol. That car headliner description would have sufficed to set the scene.

 

[CZ93X62]

You might be time- and money-ahead to just purchase a NIB Glock 9mm, and use the existing 40 S&W "upper half" as a swap unit. 40 S&W mags for the swap would be a good idea.

 

[Glaciers]

First off I'm not a semi auto guy. Like the Berreta 92, Ruger Security 9 is ok. Not a fan of Glocks.

Wheel guns forever.

 

[Mitty38]

I was thinking . Ye I know, probably should not do that.
The local gun store has a p-80 compact in gray with jig for 140 + tax. Since I got the bow I traded, 20 years ago at auction, for next to nothing. Then used the crap out of it.
I would basically be into a 40 for less then 200. Plus I would have saved a lost cause.
Plus it would have the grip angle I like.
Always wanted to do a ground up pistol build anyways.

 

[Mitty38]

First off I'm not a semi auto guy. Like the Berreta 92, Ruger Security 9 is ok. Not a fan of Glocks.

Wheel guns forever.

I love my Berettas. But this poor ugly little girl was in the middle of being drawn and quartered and I just had to save her.

 

[Walks]

I've had a Glock 23 since they very 1st came out. Been running the Lyman #40143 and later the Lee #401-175-TC when that came out. Used Bullets run thru a Lubi-Sizer with 50/50 for the 1st 20+years. Now all Powder-Coated.
Never experienced any problems with leading, accuracy or the "dreaded Glock blowout"
Guess I'm luckier then most. Or too dumb to figure out if there was a problem.

 

[CZ93X62]

You likely aren't trying to turn the 40 S&W into a 10mm, Walks. Our 40 S&W carry loads by W-W (Ranger SXT 180 JHP at first, and now the same ammo re-labeled as WWB JHP) DO NOT swell unsupported case areas in the Gen 2 Glock 40s. They still manage to produce 925-950 FPS for those 180 grainers, and these are quite decisive in the Real World. That was part of the rationale for selecting that ammo in the first place.

When I do finally run out of the gift redcoat 40 S&W/10mm bullets my plan is the same as that I followed with the 45 ACP/Glock 21--do pound slugs to get throat specs as well as lobe and flat specs on the barrel. 4 different cast bullet designs, both sized @ two diameters (.452" and .454") and the pistol didn't care a bit about size--zero leading and decent accuracy throughout.

 

[Mitty38]

A little shaky on Glocks so wanted a respected opinion on the leftovers I got from this abused gun.

Took my box-o parts to a Gunsmith today he charged me 10 bucks to inspect them.He is actually a certified"Glock Smith".
Fellow took time and showed me my parts compared to known good parts.

The Both barrels had a botched polish job where he took way too much, from the ramp.Master Dremel work he called it.
The aftermarket trigger was for a Gen 5 .
The slide was Damaged but possibly savable, from a possible partial blow out, cause by an overpowered reload, and the botched polish job on one of those barrels.
The original trigger mechanism had been modified and was unsafe.
The slide parts and the lower parts were all good except for the slide lock spring, which the former owner bent removing.
The magazine had the feed lips bent.

Smith needed some parts so he traded for, my slide minus the rear and front sight, plus the Gen 5 trigger. The magazine internals.He doubted he would be able to save the slide but he wanted it to practice repairs on. Gave him all the bad parts for examples and practice pieces. We crushed the barrels in a vice to make sure nobody ever gat a hold of them.

I got the parts that were messed up on the Factory Glock gen3 trigger mechanism.Pus a slide lock spring, and a good 9 mm magazine.
Then he gave me a demonstration with tech tips on building a 80% poly lower, right.
Said I would be best building A 9 mm to start. He had Poly 80 compact frame and a used jig and bits, Which he sold me For 80 bucks total, that included the Original 10 buck fee. Gave me some above and beyond Tube build tips. Showed me how to eliminate the Known Poly 80 flex that causes them to fail, when they get hot, under excessive competition use.

So I walked out of there with a complete, lower parts kit. A set of factory sights, a good 9 mm magazine.Also a poly 80 80% frame. A set of sights. And some new found knowledge. Some great conversation. Plus enjoyed a couple cups of really good french press coffee while there.
He said that when I get the lower together, bring it buy and he will check my work for me for nothing. Might even have a G 19 upper for me by then.


So basically I have enough stuff to make a bottom end for a G19. Plus sights and a mag. Total investment from both deals so far $90. Heck the new found knowledge was worth that.
Was going to be a 40 save, now it's going to be a 9mm build.
Strange how things can get flipped around from you're original plan, once you are educated a bit.

 

[CZ93X62]

Emmett--I am so glad you saw that Glock armorer/'smith.

 

[Walks]

You likely aren't trying to turn the 40 S&W into a 10mm, Walks. Our 40 S&W carry loads by W-W (Ranger SXT 180 JHP at first, and now the same ammo re-labeled as WWB JHP) DO NOT swell unsupported case areas in the Gen 2 Glock 40s. They still manage to produce 925-950 FPS for those 180 grainers, and these are quite decisive in the Real World. That was part of the rationale for selecting that ammo in the first place.

When I do finally run out of the gift redcoat 40 S&W/10mm bullets my plan is the same as that I followed with the 45 ACP/Glock 21--do pound slugs to get throat specs as well as lobe and flat specs on the barrel. 4 different cast bullet designs, both sized @ two diameters (.452" and .454") and the pistol didn't care a bit about size--zero leading and decent accuracy throughout.

Nope, I ain't.
Dad said if you want a Heavier Load, buy a bigger gun.
I load just under Max and bought a Wolf bbl as soon as they became available. Just felt better having a bit extra "chamber support".
Did the same for My Old M21, with the Wolf bbl and a lighter spring I can shoot My 200gr H&G 68 clone target loads in it. Not quite as "snappy" as the Loads you carry in Issue Pistol. The .452dia slugs work fine in the Wolf bbl. OEM bbl's probably deep in the back of a safe.