Question for you about molds ??
- Thread starter johnnyjr
- Start date
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
When all is said and done,
After trying this that and holding your mouth just right...
Your far better having a mold built to the dims YOU need.
Accurate allows this on many of his and he makes a fine mold.
After trying this that and holding your mouth just right...
Your far better having a mold built to the dims YOU need.
Accurate allows this on many of his and he makes a fine mold.
JonB
Halcyon member
I've never tried it, never even heard of it. It'd likely work, but getting a uniform thickness might be tricky, or just may take a talented hand with the sprayer.
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On a similar train of thought, I've beagled a mold. With the beagling tape, you can make the mold cast the entire bullet larger (but slightly oblong), or just the nose, or just the base, depending where you apply the tape.
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On a similar train of thought, I've beagled a mold. With the beagling tape, you can make the mold cast the entire bullet larger (but slightly oblong), or just the nose, or just the base, depending where you apply the tape.
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VHT super high temp rattle can paint. I got a can but never tried it. Those that did, it worked OK but wore off after a few casting sessions. IIRC they used a very small paint brush to apply it. Had to be heat cycled over 400F a few times to cure.
edit: on the 'other not to be named' board, a several tried it. Don't remember the thread, probably 'coating'. IIRC it was single thin coat, cure and second thin coat cured. Results were good but needed to be reapplied after a while. I might get around to trying it on the RD 185gr mold I have for the 30/30. Need to get a little bit of nose into the lands to improve accuracy. I just use a reamed fender washer now to get about 1/10" into the bore.
edit: on the 'other not to be named' board, a several tried it. Don't remember the thread, probably 'coating'. IIRC it was single thin coat, cure and second thin coat cured. Results were good but needed to be reapplied after a while. I might get around to trying it on the RD 185gr mold I have for the 30/30. Need to get a little bit of nose into the lands to improve accuracy. I just use a reamed fender washer now to get about 1/10" into the bore.
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Joshua
Taco Aficionado/Salish Sea Pirate/Part-Time Dragon
That spray is tenacious! My ugliest cast bullets have a “drywall knockdown” texture. The mold I cast them from had been coated with this Frankford spray by a previous owner. I have scrubbed and scrubbed but I still can’t get it all out.
I shoot these out of a 3.1” S&W Shield. I powder coat them, and try to forget that they are ugly. Accuracy is acceptable even with the texture. The mold is a Lee six banger with handles, I paid $20.00 for it.
Tomme boy
Well-Known Member
I sent LARRY GIBSON a mold he wanted to try of mine for his Mosin Nagant. I got it back having being sprayed with the Midway stuff. I was SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO pissed that was when I started to knock him at the other site. You would never do this to someone else's mold unless contacting him first. I got it out but it had to sit in lacquer thinner, then acetone, and toluene. It sat for several weeks in the different stuff before most of it came off.
fiver
Well-Known Member
man, i'd have flipped out,, literally.
the guy i was teaching to cast brought a can of that stuff out when i was over to his place, he started shaking it and was gonna zap one of my molds.
i calmly asked to see it then stepped out of the garage and launched it far enough my shoulder hurt.
'don't you even think about going and getting it'
the guy i was teaching to cast brought a can of that stuff out when i was over to his place, he started shaking it and was gonna zap one of my molds.
i calmly asked to see it then stepped out of the garage and launched it far enough my shoulder hurt.
'don't you even think about going and getting it'
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Yeah, there's a reason you won't find anyone here recommending it for it's stated purpose! Makes a decent lube on barn door rollers though.
If you are determined to try this, and I'd advise against it, you might want to get the crap on a Q-tip and use it like a paint brush. Build it up in as smooth a series of layers as you can and don't get so much in there that it can run and create a hump.
Again, I'd advise against it. If you do, save Toms post #11 so you can soak that garbage off when you find out it doesn't work or part of it flakes off while the rest stays.
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
As suggested Johnny, at the end of the day, best advice I can offer, is to buy mold of proper dimensions for your purposes.
Someone may want what you have and you can recoup some $$.
CW
Someone may want what you have and you can recoup some $$.
CW
KeithB
Resident Half Fast Machinist
There are so many good moldmakers out there now I would agree with CW and popper, get the right mold to start with. That said, years ago I made a nose-only sizing die to reduce the nose diameter of Lee 358-125RF so they would chamber in my 9mm HP. I bought a two cavity and had no problems, so I bought a six cavity and the nose came out a couple thou larger and caused some problems going into battery and locking up. Had to size the nose down a little back to the first band. I load the bullet with the front band even with the case mouth. Once I sized the nose down reliability dramatically increased.
Don't know if you can make or find someone to make a nose only sizing die but that might be an alternative path for you, especially if the mold is otherwise perfectly fine for your uses.
Don't know if you can make or find someone to make a nose only sizing die but that might be an alternative path for you, especially if the mold is otherwise perfectly fine for your uses.
