Round Balls in Rifles

Elric

Well-Known Member
Shooting and Fishing, vol 37, no 17, Feb 2, 1905 page 352
https://books.google.com/books?id=EZMwAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA352&dq=rifle+load+ball&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjI3ZOhuI3QAhUN5GMKHSqQD3IQ6AEISTAJ#v=onepage&q=rifle load ball&f=false

AN ENGLISH SPORTSMANS EXPERIENCE
CHARGES FOR GAME SHOOTING.
Regarding the use of round balls, of which I note a most complete line in the Ideal HandBook, I would say that I believe in them for bagging small game; but my experience is that much depends on the depth of the grooves and the rate of twist of the rifling. I have never been able to get regular accuracy from a Winchester .38-55 using a round ball, and believe that this is owing to the grooves being so shallow that the lands do not grip the ball sufficiently. This rifle would probably do well with a short conical bullet, as it shoots the factory ammunition with exquisite accuracy.

On the other hand, a Maynard .40-60 which has rather deep grooves and one turn in 26 inches, will shoot round balls slightly hardened, very satisfactorily with any charge from 5 grains of fine black powder up to 48 grains of Curtis’s & Harvey No. 6. With the latter it will place several successive shots in an inch bull at 50 yards and in 3 1/2 inches at 100 yards. A Maynard .32-35, which also has deep grooving, but a much quicker twist,—1 in 15 inches - carries round balls of 45 grains very nicely when the powder charge is limited to 10 grains of No. 6 powder, but is liable to occasional wild shots when that amount is exceeded. I think the Marlin repeater would probably carry round balls better than the Winchester, through having deeper grooves.

When wishing to use round balls I always load with wads. First a card wad, then one punched from a shotgun felt wad, previously soaked in a hot mixture of vaseline and paraflin and then a thin paper wad to prevent the ball from sticking to the felt wad. With light balls this sometimes makes a difference in the accuracy, as I fancy they are sometimes deflected a bit at the muzzle unless the paper wad is used.

John Rigby, the well-known English rifle maker, wrote a letter to a sportsman's paper some years ago, drawing attention to the fact that the use of thick lubricating wads enables round balls to be fired in rifles with heavy powder charges without the risk of stripping. Of course for mere gallery practice with light loads, this is of minor consequence, but for small game shooting it is a great advantage, because the trajectory of the ball can thus be made very flat, and furthermore the round ball is safe for use in thickly populated districts on account of its comparatively short range.

For all the above-mentioned work I prefer black powder, having never been able to obtain such good shooting with smokeless. The bullets can be placed in as narrow a width of group with the latter, but the elevation generally varies more, and certainly in the small bores I have never been troubled with the smoke. Even in shotguns I believe that black powder is still the best for certain kinds of game. No doubt the various smokeless powders are the best for ordinary loads of the usual sizes of shot, but for buckshot the case is different. In order to have a sufficient number of pellets for long range, there is not enough of the shell left for turning down, and consequently smokeless powder is not confined sufficiently to develop its strength. Even with the usual loads of three drams bulk and 1 1/8 ounces for a 12 bore, and 2 3/4 drams and I ounce for a 16 bore, the full strength of smokeless powder is not obtained because the friction of such large shot is much less, bulk for bulk, than with the ordinary sizes.
 
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Dusty Bannister

Well-Known Member
I find that #3 buck works well in the 6MM/243 and #4 buck works well in 22 cal CF, both for short range pests, and as a training aid.
 

KHornet

Well-Known Member
The round ball article by "Beagle", John Goines is most excellent, and highly recommend it.
I have shot round ball in 224, 245, 30 cals, 358, 429, and 458, out of a number of different
rifles and hand guns. In rifles, have found most to be accurate to 25 or so with mouse fart
loadings. In straight wall cases like 38S/357/429/and 458 multi ball loads have preformed
well to 25 yds and a bit beyond. They are a bit of a pain to load, but fun to shoot.

Paul
 

Elric

Well-Known Member
After reading "Round Ball Loads" http://www.castpics.net/LoadData/Round Ball Loads.pdf
it looks as if the OP is mostly using slightly smaller balls bumped up only a few thousandths.

The laster posts refer to sizing down from .030 to .015 thousands to form a "pill" like bullet. At this point, maybe sprue down on H&I die. Rounded top punch (?)... I want to be careful about trying to swage with my RCBS LAM 2...

Bumping a round ball to the proper diameter is the only way to get any accuracy from them.
Dipping in liquid alox and allowing the ball to dry enhances accuracy and prevents leading

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...all-in-45-70&p=2156945&viewfull=1#post2156945
"i took a .490 round ball sized it to .457 with a lee sizer and loaded it over 15 grains of UNIQUE. seated just off the rifling."

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...fc11cf09a3c30f&p=800778&viewfull=1#post800778
"The one area of concern, and in my experience it has fortunately been just about non-existent, is gas cutting of the ball because of the very small contact area that seals the bore. High pressure gas cutting of cast bullets is the main source of barrel leading, not the rubbing-off of lead like a soft crayon onto the barrel wall as is usually thought (this has received a lot of discussion elsewhere and from the evidence I am satisfied that it is true). To prevent barrel leading from gas cutting, keep your powder charges as small as practical and put a dab of Lee Alox or some kind of lube on the ball after loading. I think Johnson's Paste Wax (JPW) will work, I use it for my .50 BMG plinkers and on down. Besides that, from my own experience I have found that large powder charges with round balls are terribly inaccurate to begin with, so barrel leading is kind of a moot point anyway! At the moment I don't recall what powder charge weight I use for the .458, but I have used Red Dot, Unique, Green Dot, and 700X. I didn't get good burning with Blue Dot, and partially burned Blue Dot eats out bores and rusts everything it contacts in just minutes because it is loaded with nitric acid regenerated from the partially decomposed nitrogen compounds in the powder. I'd leave Blue Dot/2400/H110 alone for very small loads since they don't do well at all at low pressure. But for the other powders I listed for a .458 round ball load a general rule of thumb I go by is that around 13 grains is the maximum safe load UNTIL PROVEN OTHERWISE, so 10 grains of Unique is within that and you can work up – which is standard operating procedure anyway. A 0.458” round ball weighs approximately 144 grains, so you can use that as a guideline to extrapolate "ball park" velocities from pistol loads."

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...fc11cf09a3c30f&p=790556&viewfull=1#post790556
"I have made balls smaller, which is real easy using a cast bullet sizing die. I have a lot of .30 and .31 caliber military rifles and I make petite little pill-like projectiles for them by taking a cast lead ball in the range of 0.324" or 8mm and running it through a Lee push-through sizing die for the particular caliber rifle it is for, such as a 0.309" die for my .30-06 or a 0.312" for my Mosin-Nagant. I think I tried running a 0.358" lead ball through a 0.309" die and it worked okay. The loads for round ball and petite pill loads is 3 to 5 grains Red Dot, Unique, 700X, Green Dot, Bullseye, and any of the other very fast pistol/shot shell powders. I don't use Dacron or toilet paper over the powder, I tip the muzzle up before firing, if I remember to tip it up to locate the powder back over the flash hole. The one thing you will find of great difference using mini-bullets is the point of aim is way off to the side from the expected point of impact since the sights are set for the normal big heavy projectiles and they have a different flight path because of greatly different aerodynamics. I compensate by putting a new sighting mark off to the correct side on my rear sight with some white-out erasing fluid."
 
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