Should I float my barrel?

johnnyjr

Well-Known Member
Finally got all the copper out of that savage 110e barrel.
I noticed the barrel is pretty tight in the stock, should I relieve it some or wait and see how it performs the way it is.. any suggestions? Only be using cast bullets in it as far as I know...john
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Just remember to lightly lube a patch with your bullet lube and rub it into the bore before you shoot. That will help condition the bore before the first shot. FWIW
 

JonB

Halcyon member
I noticed the barrel is pretty tight in the stock,
Have you investigated that enough, to know if it's tight in one spot? Multiple spots? Or tight everywhere?
.
Advice I was given with a troublesome rifle. Shoot some groups, adjust the torque of the stock mount bolt/s for each group.
The results of that test might steer you toward floating or not floating.
good Luck.
 

BudHyett

Active Member
Shoot it first to set a baseline. Then use thin copper shims under the action to elevate the barrel to simulate floating the barrel.

In my expereince, I've never had a rifle shoot worse that was free-floated. Several times, the rifles have not shot better, but none have shot worse. And free-floating lessens the possibility of weather impacting the stock and touching the barrel.

In the past, I've shot the RCBS 30-180-SP at the beginning because I know the bullet works well. This gives one less variable to account for in your search.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
This has always been key for me.

Back as a boy I rarely saw fully floated barrels. Never say plastic (Didnt exist?) and rarely fiberglass stocks. But generally a action that was accurized was FL BEDDED. Later with composite and solid stabile construction free floating barrels became popular.

I built a HB 10/22 once where I fit the barrel channel and fully bedded it. Into a laminated chunky "Anshutz" style stock. I had a base altered and D&T to that barrel over hanging the action then added an extra bedding screw into barrel at about 1/2 Its length. Then opened up the action to float that. This was marvelously accurate.

Shimming to test FF accuracy is excellent idea. Just be as stringent that YOUR bedding be solid and consistent. So you don't introduce an inaccuracy. Good opportunity to check and improve any questionable bedding.

CW
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
1. Don't put the cart in front of the horse. SHOOT IT first .......Then decide if you need to do something.

2. Barrel harmonics are tough. There are a lot of variables involved.

3. Free floated, pressure point, fully bedded, what type of stock, weather conditions, etc., etc., etc. There was a time when all stocks were wood, and humidity was always an issue. Then we had laminated stocks that were a little better but often heavy. And then synthetics that are unaffected by humidity but can be very fussy about pressure on the barrel.

Bottom line – let the target tell you and don’t jack-rabbit around from solution to solution. Wait until you are SURE you need to make a change.
 

Elpatoloco

Active Member
When I was a Kid, me and my father had "matching" Ruger M77s. His was chambered in '06 and mine in 280 Remington. He played hell with his anytime the humidity changed until he floated the barrel. Mine shot lights out all the time. Matter of fact, it still does.

Id shoot it and worry about bedding it if you have trouble.