Some period thoughts on shooting round balls (May 1901)

Elric

Well-Known Member
Folks, another blast from the past. It should confirm things that people have known...


Shooting and Fishing, page 47, vol 30, No. 3, May 2, 1901

https://books.google.com/books?id=b5cwAQAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=editions:4_nJVSo-51oC&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiOvcf4gIrYAhUY22MKHWqBD-04ChDoAQgrMAE#v=onepage&q=ENGLISH RIFLE NOTES&f=true

ENGLISH RIFLE NOTES, by J. J. M.

I think that during next hunting season there will be a number of men trying the effect of ball shooting smoothbores on large game in the states. To obtain great accuracy it is necessary to have a much more perfect sphere than in a rifle, and the great care with which American molds are made ought to induce all American sportsmen to apply for those required to fit their smoothbores. About twelve years ago I purchased a No. 6 Ideal tool for a .40 or .60 through the Colt Co., in London, and I thought the bullets the most perfect I had ever been able to cast. It was difficult and sometimes impossible to find on them any mark where the two halves of the mold joined. The Ideal lead loader also I found a great help in casting bullets free from defects.

In 1888 an Englishman who had spent forty years hunting and exploring in South Africa wrote several letters to the London Field about ball shooting smoothbores. His experience was that to obtain the greatest accuracy the ball should be hardened with about one-half part of tin, so that it could not be deformed by the blow of the powder gas. It should fit very closely but not tightly, so that it could be pushed through the barrel by a steady pressure of the cleaning rod, but without any ramming. It should be lubricated and should rest on a thick and very soft wad. The barrel being bored a true cylinder internally should have externally a straight taper from breech to muzzle, instead of being dished in the central part as is the case in most ordinary shotguns. The object of this shape is to make them very rigid. Barrels that are dished, being thin in the metal, vibrate too much for good ball shooting. The muzzle should be thicker in the rim than guns made for small shot only. The gun should have a rear sight like a rifle. I think a very small Lyman rear aperture sight would be the best for this purpose. I have never had a smoothbore breechloader especially made for ball, but in experimenting with my shotguns have obtained the best results with bullets of such a size that when resting in a thin tough linen patch they could be sent through the barrel with one steady push of the cleaning rod. In muzzleloaders I have also found this kind of fit gives the closest shooting, but I still think the close fitting naked ball as above described would be worth a trial.

In the Ideal Handbook it is frequently mentioned that round balls in rifles must be used with only small powder charges, to prevent their jumping the grooves. I have found that the actual charge depends much upon the depth of grooves as well as rapidity of twist. I have made nearly all my rifles shoot well with round ball, in order to kill birds like geese or cranes without tearing them. A 45 Express, the ordinary charge for which was 124 grains of powder, shot round balls very accurately with 55 grains of powder. A 40-60 Maynard— which has rather deep grooves like the Ballard and Marlin rifles—carries round balls of 102 grains with beautiful closeness with any charge between 15 and 40 grains of powder. A .32-35 Maynard barrel shoots balls just fitting the shell nicely, close enough to hit a rabbit in the central part of the shoulder at 50 yards when driven by 10 grains of Curtis's & Harvey No. 6 powder, the twist being one turn in 15 inches. More powder cannot be used without a slight loss of accuracy. I leave it loose in the shell, put a thick cloth lubricated wad in the mouth, and on this a thin dry paper wad to prevent the bullet sticking to the cloth wad when leaving the muzzle. With such small balls this makes a marked difference. With my Winchester .38-55-255 rifle, '94 pattern, I have never been able to obtain good work with round balls, although with the 255 grain bullet it is a splendid shooter. I attribute this to the very shallow kind of grooving, which causes the round ball to tip with even a small powder charge. J. J. M.
 
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Intheshop

Banned
In addition to,"skidding".....add,flutter.In the shop,we call it "rattle N hum".The rock group,U2 can go suck an egg...nuff said.R N H(flutter) is a combined effect.Lets use a TS(table saw),medium quality...decent blade.Fluttering happens when your feed rate overwhelms the blades engineering/geometry which,then gets transmitted straight to the bearings,made worse when the wood has an internal issue (laundry list of possibilities on this one...doh).The blade goes through a cyclic vibration pattern that,if you don't change the feed rate,it only gets worse.

Same thing happens on a sportbike front end when,usually,.....you're saving wear on the Fr tyre(uhhh wheelies) and when it touches terra firma a cyclic wobble ensues,"flutter".Same thing can happen to a CB on the trip down a brrl.You can get as PHD as you want in the study but....either speed up/slow down,as in feed rates or,hit the go button WRT M/C's.
 

Elric

Well-Known Member
Skidding is where the CB is not effectively held by the rifling, and instead, travels farther forward than the twist rate.

Flutter?

Crumbled yellow cornbread and chili... Yummm...
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Cornbread? Chili?

I bet Ian doesn't put beans in his chili.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I was doing some deep dig and read stuff and noticed the testers of some express rounds talking about cork-screwing 16-1 [alloy] hollow point bullets.
they put it down to velocity, even though the barrels had twist rates as slow as 60-1.

the weird thing is they were shooting through paper placed every 25 or 50 yds depending on the distance to the target. [100 or 200 yds]
[they were working on testing how flat certain rounds shot over distance]
the testers were seeing the anomaly in a consistent repeatable pattern of 5 shots, at both distances.

I'm going to explore the thin paper between the patch and ball at some point.
 

Intheshop

Banned
Rattle N hum works for me..... "flutter" is what I heard it called in JB "accuracy" discussions...Bryan Litz types?Reckon I could supply sources?...but won't.You figure it out.
 

Intheshop

Banned
Yeah fiver,apparently it's a "rational" trying to put some name on.... well,precession.

I see it as a form of chatter but,chatter is different,at least as what I call it vs a rattle.Bore riders;how well the nose fits and how straight the cartridge starts out(bullet run out).Breach seating and all that brings to the table would minimize it?
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
it might.
the intriguing thing was the slow rotation was showing it.
I have always heard it was from over spinning the projectile.

the other thing I thought was worth noting was the almost universal use of 16-1 alloy for the large BP type rifle bullets.
that was a factory choice at the time.
I know other rounds like the 44-40/45 colt types were a 40-1 alloy.
the 16-1 was also used with paper patch ammo.
others were labeled as unknown, but I would think 20-1 was a fairly popular alloy at the time.
much of what I have seen has been noted as 20-1 being used by the hand casters of the time.
maybe they were being frugal or had also figured out a little more diameter was beneficial too [shrug]
 

Ian

Notorious member
RBs should have about equal CG/CP even after being loaded and fired, so they behave a little differently regarding yaw damping. Slow twist should make the loop-dee-loop thing worse, or at least carry it out a lot further. I got a .45 Colt rifle that loops normal bullets in a 6-8" corkscrew pattern having just over one rotation before 100 yards. I read several places that yaw pretty much gets damped out within 5,000 caliber lengths of the muzzle, unless your bullet isn't stable or isn't being spun FAST enough. I believe it was Litz who commented that we wouldn't believe how fast a ROT has to be before it is "too fast". Something like 4" IIRC. The Oldfeller Cruise Missile takes well over 100 yards to stabilize if you push it fast, even in a 7.8" twist, but it does stabilize eventually. I attribute that to the blunt nose and wide lube grooves, CP/CG are way too close.