Sprue opening jig prototype

GRMPS

Active Member
Sprue opening jig prototype all wood easy to make, can't mar the mold
I cut a groove in the base to
adjust the base length for your mold size.
next modification will be a piece of slotted angle iron attached to the bottom of the wood base so I can easily adjust depth according to mold size

For my NOE Molds

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Easy modification for RCBS molds

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Modification for Lee 2 cavity molds, add a 1/2" piece of wood and cut a notch out where the sprue plate stop is.

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seems I never get past the prototype stage :(, the prototypes work so why make another one?:)
 
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Ian

Notorious member
Interesting. Looks like you've gotten a lot of use out of it, but I have to ask, why not just preheat the moulds to get started and then cut the sprue while it's still soft? Cutting most alloy sprues takes nothing more than a gloved thumb and wrist rotation if the timing is right. Pure lead and true eutectic alloys can be a little more work.
 

GRMPS

Active Member
Some of us are a little older and make noise when we stand up :(

some motions just aren't as easy as they used to be.

I do use a hotplate set to 375 with a 3/8" piece of steel on it to help create an even heat.
 
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Ian

Notorious member
I'm only middle-aged, but have been taking steps for years to minimize stress to the already over-used body, so can appreciate the setup. Forcing myself to get comfortable sitting in a chair to cast bullets and and do all the reloading processes was a first big step in that direction; then I began shifting more and more to progressive or semi-progressive operations that minimize repetitive, fine motor movement.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
It's nice when the sprue plate will turn with a gloved hand, and most of the time that is how things roll for me. I have a rawhide mallet ready at hand for times that doesn't hold true, just the same. This is a pretty cool adaptation for such times, far less crude than whacking the sprue plate like a demented blacksmith.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
A gentleman had a stroke & wants to continue casting, a solution. Simpler as below, couple 1/2" bolts. If the bolts exert pressue on the handle and tab, won't hurt the mould. Adjust spacing as needed. Could be done vert as well like gmps. Often my sprue doesn't drop right out.
 

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Missionary

Well-Known Member
Now I like that two bolt idea popper ! Simple and easy to put together. May have to whip one up for the single cavity molds I use down here.
 

Cherokee

Medina, Ohio
Neat Idea. Innovation. I don't like wacking either which is one thing I rally like about the Lee 6Cmolds lever sprue plate.
Grmps - the sprue plate on my NOE mold is mounted opposite of yours.
 

GRMPS

Active Member
A gentleman had a stroke & wants to continue casting, a solution. Simpler as below, couple 1/2" bolts. If the bolts exert pressue on the handle and tab, won't hurt the mold. Adjust the spacing as needed. It could be done vert as well like gmps. Often my sprue doesn't drop right out.

My design started like yours I wanted to get away from metal. and modified it to work with NOE, RCBS, Lyman, and Lee.

I use I light leather mallet to tap the handle hinge if the sprue or bullets don't drop out.
 
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popper

Well-Known Member
Got some 2"x 3/8" steel channel I can get a bolt head under, 1" threaded couplers in the garage. Long piece should fit under the Lee melter base. Cut, drill 2 holes, assemble and polish. May have to check the Lee handles to make sure enough handle area contacts the mould slot so it doesn't deform the mould.
Cast, drop off the stand to this rig, cut the sprue, use gloved hand (glove gets hot when I'm in the rhythm) to open.
 
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popper

Well-Known Member
Quick pour to test tonite, hole in plate for Sprue pivot screw, stud for plate 'finger'. PB mould now provides VERY flat base with no divit! Mount at angle so Sprue falls in safe place. Pushed PB very fast with a good square base and accuracy is fine. Bad base, bad accuracy.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
I'll just keep on whacking. Rawhide mallet, cut off shovel handle, pig nut hickory stick. It's good for my hand and eye coordination.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
I am doing this for HV PB cast - 2100 fps in 300BO. I tested before and found anything bad with the base and you don't get MOA. 2x acurate Al. mould - checked and can't see any damage at al to the mould. Very little force to cut even with an under temp sprue plate. This 'tinkering' test was just a peice of sheet metal with bolt and hole for the sprue pivot. Looking for a tall pivot screw head (cap screw like with a large flat for the wave washer). Thinking now is a paddle with handle so I just pick up while sprue is hardening, cut over the dross pan but for others a bracket could be made for bench mounting. I don't like whacking a mould.
 

GRMPS

Active Member
I've found that I had to sharpen the holes in some sprue plates. Polish with HF diamond hone then make sure bottom is smooth.