Sprue plate

[Brad]

Yep. Gotta have a sharp edge there, the shear force from cutting actually pushes the sprue up out of the well, like primary extraction on a rifle.

Trying something today. I ran a taper reamer into each hole from the top. A little draft on the holes should help with the release of the little divot.
I also drilled the hole for the set screw and retapped it 10-32. Those tiny little screws MP uses just don’t like to get tight on the pivot screw. That won’t be an issue any more.

 

[Brad]

FYI, a slight draft helps but doesn’t cut it. I will be looking for a small countersink to cut the holes with a sharp bottom edge.

 

[fiver]

yold ya to look at Bens thread.
his method was use what was on hand but it was the way it's done.
you could also mill a slot between all of the holes to help with some extra weight.

 

[freebullet]

FYI, a slight draft helps but doesn’t cut it. I will be looking for a small countersink to cut the holes with a sharp bottom edge.

They make end mills for just that purpose. I know only because I seen them in recent searching, or are you speaking of something different?

You'd get a quite a chuckle out of my first homemade sprue plate. If I find it you'll be in for a treat.

 

[Brad]

Needed to use the mould so I was forced to deal with the new plate. I ordered a few different countersinks.
I decided to try the single flute, 3/4” 100° bit first. Man does it cut nice. Left a good finish.
Cast a full 40# pot of 200 swc for the 1911. No troubles at all.

 

[Pistolero]

Looks good, Brad. You get that from MSC?

 

[Brad]

I did. I got a 90° and 100° single flute and a 90° 6 flute, all MA Ford. I ordered early yesterday and had it in my hands today. Roughly 24 hours from order to delivery, amazing.

 

[Ian]

How do you like the aluminum vs. the original steel plate?

Something else I'd seriously consider if I were concerned about weight is putting the mould blocks on a serious diet. The 45-200 has about three times the block mass necessary to prevent warpage and hold heat, and that's mass you have to schlep back and forth between pot rim and dump pile.

 

[Brad]

The Al plate does require a bit more effort to open but it isn’t bad at all. No lead stock to it at all. Heat wise I saw no problems, bases all filled fine.
Time will tell how well the cutting edge holds up. I got 450 good bullets today so call it 120 pours or so.

Ian, these 4 cav brass moulds from MP are a monster. Holding the mould is far more fatiguing than the ladle that holds better than a pound of lead. One potful. Is all I can stand at one time.

 

[Brad]

I wonder if Al and Al leads to galling? Would an Al plate be better or worse on an Al mould?

 

[Ian]

It most certainly does, especially if the alloys and finishes are similar. Anodize one or the other or just keep your nickle anti-seize handy.

 

[Brad]

The 7075 plate was mostly to see if it could be done.

Now you have me wondering how I can shave 4+ ounces off that mould.

 

[Rick]

Anti seize is your friend, a steel bolt threaded into aluminum and then heated repeatedly will become quite permanent, everything that threads into an aluminum block should have anti seize on the threads. Aluminum cylinder heads are notorious for steel bolts becoming a permanent part of the head, never again to be removed. I keep a tube of anti seize on my casting bench but mostly any more I use bullplate on sprue plate bolt, handle screws etc.

 

[Brad]

Handle bolts on all of my moulds get bullplate on the threads with each use.

 

[358156 hp]

I wonder if Al and Al leads to galling? Would an Al plate be better or worse on an Al mould?

Guaranteed. I bought an LBT mould that was refitted with an NEI style aluminum sprue plate. I thought one of the Bullplate copies would prevent galling, but it just didn't work out. I need to do some research on home anodizing. Veral won't respond to my requests to sell me a new genuine LBT sprue plate. I'm not surprised, this is the sort of thing that would irritate him. I should have told him that I dropped the mould, or something like that.

 

[Pistolero]

One, at least, needs to be anodized to prevent galling.

Bill

 

[Brad]

Home anodizing isn’t something I need to get into.

 

[Rick]

Home anodizing isn’t something I need to get into.

Of course it is . . . We need parts. Anodized parts!

 

[fiver]

blue,gold,red,black..
I love the look of anodized aluminum.

 

[Rick]

Just look here Brad, it's so easy. And just think, you can also do titanium, niobium, tantalum and other reactive metals.

Deluxe Anodizing Kit - Includes 30 Amp Rectifier

www.caswellplating.com