WTB .357 Herrett die set (CLOSED)

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L Ross

Well-Known Member
If at all possible, try to get a form trim die as well.
Okay, can I ask why? What we did this weekend worked splendidly. I just looked up an RCBS case forming die at Midway and they wanted 161 bucks for it!

I was contemplating buying Starline .375 Winchester brass and running those through a standard .357 Herrett full length die rather than expanding .30-30 brass.
 

Michael

Active Member. Uh/What
The form/trim die will do a couple of things. It will push the shoulder back almost all way to where it needs to be allowing the final position to be set by the FL sizer. Also it will allow the excess case length to be cut off using a hacksaw. If you have a power trimmer the FT die is not an issue, taking over a 1/4" off using a crank gets tedious really fast. When I had my 357H barrel I would expand the necks first then run through the FT die. Then I would clean up the case mouth on a case trimmer and setting the length right at max, followed by setting the shoulder in the FL die. It takes some trial and error to set the shoulder, you will want to position such that when closing the action will take a smart snap to lock up and allow it to dry fire on an empty case where the hammer strikes and rests against the firing pin. Even though it is a rimmed case it headspaces on the shoulder. Too much and cases are toast within just a few firings. Your friend there likely has the process down pat anyway. It takes time like casting, and like wise the satisfaction of making everything vs buy, load, shoot.

Tell ya what, on second thought, somewhere....... I have a load manual put out by TC specifically for the Contender some 30-40 years ago (OMG....) it describes things better than I. I will look for it, copy and mail the info on the Herrett rounds for you. Has your address changed since we traded bullets? Let me know if you need any other data and I will include it as well.

Back when pistol silhouette was the big thing, some folks liked using 375 Win due to the heavier construction and thicker web and for the reason you mention. I never went that route, 30-30 brass was often free to pick up on the range or 5, maybe 10 cents each and even then 375 was not all that common. Starline is showing $160 for 250 pieces
 
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L Ross

Well-Known Member
Thank you very much. Address is still the same.

Yes my friend had done that rodeo a long time ago. We set the shoulder long and marked the neck/shoulder junction with a Sharpie and snapped and adjusted until we were happy with the fit. Then we loaded them and shot them. Checked them after firing and they looked good. Now I am not shooting a high intensity jacketed load. I am shooting a 215 grain casting over 10.0 grains of Unique. We didn't chronograph them but they cover 210 yards right quick and knock down heavy steel buffalo with alacrity, even on a couple of hits that would not have taken down the target with cast loads in the .308/.30-06 with 160 grain bullets. I don't think the pressure is high enough to really blow out the shoulder as sharp as possible. On the other hand I don't plan on hunting with this gun and knock down targets will be its metier. I next need to cast up some bullets and give them a rigorous inspection prior to sizing and checking. Saturday was very moist and humid and Charlie was potting for me and about busted a gut when a couple of shots went loop de loop down range. I know I saw some exposed holes in the side of one and the bases of a couple more bullets. I said to heck with it and sized them up anyway. In the moist air he could actually see a barrel roll vapor trail. Even with what I had most of the rounds grouped very well.
 

Michael

Active Member. Uh/What
Excellent. Now you just need to get the holes in the right place so they will buzz or whistle.
 
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