WTB tang sight for 1899 Savage

[Glaciers]

I'm thinking I'm in the market for a tang sight. I think the Lyman numbers are 1B & 2B. I'm finding possible numbers of No. 18 & No. 19. This is for a 1899 in 250-3000 takedown which was made about WW1.
This rifle has a crack which goes through the checking of the pistol grip on the right. I'm looking for someone who can repair this correctly.

I'm in the market for a R25 as well

 

[Ian]

Ben would be the stock man. Good luck on the sights, if a member here hadn't stepped up and given me one I'd still be hunting for one for my 1908 model.

 

[Glaciers]

John Taylor gave me Dennis The Stock Doctors number so I sent him pictures, he says no matter what he can fix it. So I'm waiting to hear back in a few days on his thoughts and prices. He does beautiful work, which means I might not be able too afford it.
I thought of Ben but don't want to pester people. Ben's a good guy, might bug him later. See what Dennis says first.

 

[JustJim]

I think my 300 has a Marbles; they are definitely more common around here than the Ideal. I've got a 410 barrel that should fit your rifle, if you get the urge to shoot an underpowered shotgun round (don't know if it would fit your forend wood though).

One of my goals for the next year or two is to get the buttstock on my other Savage replaced, and get the tension on the rotor set correctly.

 

[Ian]

That reminds me, I need to wind my rotor spring another click or two, it is weak presenting the last round.

 

[Bret4207]

I've got the Marbles tang site on my 303. Nice but sort of in the way as are most tang sights. My 25/35 has a Redfield recv'r sight. Much, much nicer, easier to adjust and use. Doesn't look as retro, but my preferred option.

 

[Bret4207]

I think my 300 has a Marbles; they are definitely more common around here than the Ideal. I've got a 410 barrel that should fit your rifle, if you get the urge to shoot an underpowered shotgun round (don't know if it would fit your forend wood though).

One of my goals for the next year or two is to get the buttstock on my other Savage replaced, and get the tension on the rotor set correctly.

I saved these guys some time back. I'd take a strong look at their stocks as they are one of the only places I've seen that seems to know 99's come in several different flavors of stock dimensions. https://www.cottagecraftworks.com/savage-model-1899-99-walnut-stock

 

[Glaciers]

Bret thanks for the link to Cottage Craftworks. I bookmarked it for future. But I'm not going to restock this rifle it's going to stay original. I will find someone to repair it, just not sure I can afford that kind of craftsmanship.


I won't drill and tap the receiver for a receiver sight while the option of a tang sight is there. I'm trying to keep this gun as original as I can. Brett I dislike tang sights exactly for the reason you state "sort of in the way".

 

[Glaciers]

Up date:

Well I just checked my email and heard back from the Stock Doctor. He says can't be fixed for reliability as it's to thin in the area of the crack. For Dennis to restock to original with checkering would be $2000.
Not surprised that it's not repairable, but...
So I'm no longer looking for a tang site.

I'm going to see if I can find a original replacement butt stock which might take a year or two. After I find that I'm going to talk to John Taylor about converting it to 35 Remington. JES might be able to help in that department as well. If all of that comes to be I will probably drill and tap the receiver for either a scope or a receiver sight.

I've never fitted a new replacement stock that has to have the final fitting done. A little uncomfortable doing that on a Savage as they have a tendency to crack at the top tang even if fitted properly.

So if any of you might on the off chance have old stock for a pistol grip 1899 laying around in an old junk box....

 

[Ian]

They generally crack because oil wicks down the upper tang and softens the wood, or the cheeks shrink. In either case all of the recoil force is transferred to either the cheeks or the back of the upper tang, splitting the graceful, thin wrist. If anyone were to attempt repair they would need the whole rifle so as to glass bed the buttstock after reinforcing and repairing the damage.

Those can be repaired permanently by first degreasing and gluing the crack back together under pressure. After the glue has set, two or three small grooves are cut on the inside with holes extending into the wrist and sections of annealed chain saw files epoxied in place. Small air bleed holes must be drilled in from the lower tang area at an angle for the epoxy to escape. If necessary, the stock bolt hole can be slightly enlarged and a thin, knurled steel sleeve epoxied in for strength. Then the mess is trimmed up, stock fitted back to the rifle, relieved, and bedded to the tangs and cheeks. A careful gunsmith should be able to do all that without needing to refinish the stock.

 

[Glaciers]

I will be visiting my local gun smith in a couple of days to see what he has to say.

Edit: my favorite gun smith that could do this kind of repair and has for me in the past, unfortunately has been lost to bottle flu.

 

[Bret4207]

IIRC Brownells "Gunsmith Kinks" has several articles on doing these types of repairs. As Ian notes, bedding these is the key with good wood to start with.

 

[Glaciers]

I'll check out the Brownells information. Having never done this kinda work on a rifle I'm hesitant. Frankly other than cleaning I try to avoid work on guns. Uncomfortable as I might botch it up. Painting or anything to do with fluids, I'm a mess.
My biggest concern is getting the oils out that have probably soaked in to the wood.