Hi Tek vs Powder Coat

[Billy G]

has anybody compared Hi Tek to Powder Coating? I have & I get much more consistent results with Hi Tek . I am not sure about durability when shot at higher velocity. has anybody shot both in a rifle. I have shot thousands of both in contender pistols & regular handguns.

 

[Brad]

I have had much better luck with powder coating. Single coat, easy to apply, no dry time.
Best of all, I don’t have near as much trouble getting good loads that don’t lead at all.
I will admit that Hi-Tek does make bulk processing far easier. The wet coating is faster than powder coating.

 

[popper]

I've used both, prefer PC as when needed I can WD. I did push a PB cast 145gr to 2100 in BO with accuracy but coating got very dark from over cooking and seemed more brittle. Was the gold 1035 powder. Used the old liquid green for 40sw, worked but i don't do big enough batches to make it worthwhile.
Anybody in DFW that want the stuff can have it.

 

[Farmerjim]

I do both. Hi-Tek when I need the nose to remain the same diameter. Powder coat everything else.

 

[Billy G]

I sorta agree with Farnerjim, I cast my bullets in 8lb batches because thats what fits in my containers .I can HTek all 8 lbs at same time ,I do have to put 2 coats on but do not have to separate as much on wire mesh . I do think P-C is more durable. I believe I will P-C my rifle bullets but Hi-TEC pistol bullets. Farmerjim is right about P-C on nose riding bullets.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

I prefer PC

1) More dureable

2) Quicker

3) Less overall time. (Single coat)

CW

 

[Billy G]

I agree it is probably more durable ,but I can only do about 4lbs at a time with P-Ced in my cool whip container. I also have to do 2 cooks with P-C because I have to spread them apart more so they will not stick together and when I pull them apart it pulls a plug out of the coating. but i agree P-C is still some what faster. For me I also get a smoother finish with Hi-Tek.

 

[Intel6]

I do both. Aesthetics are big for me; I like stuff to look good and if I am taking the time to do it, they need to look good to my eye.

For doing large quantities of pistol bullets (9/38/40/10/44/45) I like using HiTek. I get better coverage and a better looking finished overall bullet than doing the PC shake and bake where all the bullets are in a pile and they have spots from touching other bullets all over them. I know it doesn't affect performance but I don't like how they turn out. For larger quantities of pistol bullets there is no way I am standing them all up to get them to look better.

I use PC for all rifle bullets and any handgun bullets I am shooting at higher velocities. I think it is a better coating for this application and having tried HT for this also I prefer PC. Also, since I typically are making these bullets in smaller quantities, I am taking more care in the process and standing them up to get the nicer finish.

 

[Billy G]

Intel6 I agree with everything you said . I want my bullets to look perfect . I throw all back in pot that don't . I get way more rejects with P-C because I don't stand them up . .22 & .30 cal. rifle gas checked bullets are next to imposable for me to keep standing .

 

[fiver]

make a rack and stand them nose down.
i made one with some hardware cloth and a punch... well and some tin snips.

 

[Intel6]

Intel6 I agree with everything you said . I want my bullets to look perfect . I throw all back in pot that don't . I get way more rejects with P-C because I don't stand them up . .22 & .30 cal. rifle gas checked bullets are next to imposable for me to keep standing .

For my small bullets I have been using the small silicone ice cube tray that has small compartments. It works decent enough and is the best solution I have found so far.

 

[Billy G]

I tried quarter inch hardware cloth with my .22s nose down and the p-c stuck to it and pulled p-c off in spots when I removed them.

 

[fiver]

holy cow,, how much powder you puttin on them?

 

[Brad]

My bullets don’t stick to the wire mesh and I can not see where they contacted the mesh. I don’t stand them up, they all get dumped on a tray, give them a little shake, and into the oven they go.

I must not be using enough powder

 

[fiver]

hey Brad,,, just pour a heaping spoon full per 4 square inches over the top just before you put them in the oven, that should get you back on track.

 

[Billy G]

I use just enough to coat them completely . I do shake off the excess .If I don't use non stick aluminum foil they will stick to the wire mesh . If you ever watched Elvis Ammo ore other P-C coating videos they have to beat on the bottom of the wire mesh most of the time to get the bullets to fall off. With Hi-Tek I just dump them on to wire mesh with no problems. I guess ever body has a different experience with coating bullets . Might be a little different in our oven temps. Just because your dial says 400 deg. don't always mean that's what it is. I bought two oven thermometers they read 30 deg. apart. finally got one to read 415 and the other to read 385. said the heck with it. Seems to work fine. I'm not saying anyone else is wrong. I'm just telling what I've experienced.

 

[Brad]

I wonder if my powder flows less? I never have much sticking problem.
I do have a PID controlling my oven and always bake for 30 minutes to verify proper curing of the powder.

I should probably look in to what my powder is. I have had it a few years in my humid garage? As long as it work I will keep using it.

 

[fiver]

i have a couple of different powders.
one coats thin enough to see through it and it only adds .001 total.
a second one gives a much thicker coat , about .002, with the same looking amount of dry coverage.

 

[Billy G]

To Brad. What size mesh are you using? I started out using guarter inch and then switched to eighth inch and I had less sticking problems. Maby I am getting a thicker coat. If what you are doing works I would not change anything. To Fiver. You should not be able to see through the first coat with P-C except for maby a few small spots and they will usually flow out. Those that don't I throw back in pot. I would try more powder or not shake as much.

 

[Brad]

I use 1/4” mesh.

When I am done shaking the powder looks a bit thin, I can see a few bare spots. Once cured there are no bare spots. I get roughly .001 per side of thickness. So far it has worked well for me.

If I had to stand them all up after picking them up with tweezers I would go back to traditional lube. Brad ain’t got the patience for that crap.