Rem Oil

[Mitty38]

Anyone else here use Rem Oil.
About 3 years ago.
Bought a spray can of it for my range bag. Because I had heard it was a good wet break in and field lube.
Well I have been using it for just abought everything, in every gun, that don't require Grease or a good scrub Ing with Hopes and a brush.
I live in a damp environment and have really been impressed with how it keeps the rust down.Even wipe it on the wood now, it keeps it nice.
Plus for swabbing the barrel. It gets it really clean. Without getting the wanted light lead fouling coat out, when shooting cast. Kinda smooths the lead out instead of removing it. Keeping the gun Accurate. Leaving a light oil coating the bore that burns out first shot.
It is becoming my go to oil

 

[Petrol & Powder]

I don’t use it, but other folks seem to either love it or hate it. I believe the newer formula has Teflon suspended in the oil. (I’m not sure of that). The older Rem Oil reminded me of 3 in 1 oil, and it appeared to be a light mineral oil. I’ve heard stories of Rem Oil being poor for long term storage but without knowing details, those reports may be misleading (how it was applied, how the gun was stored, what conditions, etc.) When it comes to gun care products, everyone and their brother has favorites.

Like most of us, I have a shelf full of gun care products, but I have settled on 5 products for about 99% of my needs. Clenzoil, Kroil, Hoppes #9, RIG and Lubriplate 130.

Copper fouling can be dissolved with any of the bore cleaners that have ammonia in them (Hoppes #9, Shooters Choice, etc.).

Lead fouling must be mechanically removed and Kroil helps to break the bond between the lead deposit and the barrel. It’s also a decent cleaner.

Clenzoil is an excellent “All-Around” oil and has never failed me. If I had to be limited to one product – that’s the one I want.

RIG is a good, “old school” light grease for long term storage of ferrous metals and a tiny bit goes a long way.

High pressure sliding surfaces (like sears, locking lugs, etc.) get Lubriplate but frankly, just about any white lithium grease will work. It aint rocket science.

When I was lacking money, I used ATF (Dextron II) as my gun oil, and it worked just fine! I’ve seen guns go a lifetime with nothing more than 3 in 1 oil used on them. Sometimes we overthink this stuff.

 

[Mitty38]

The Rem Oil can be had with or without silicon. I prefer without.
I still use Hoppes Oil for my long term(as in may be a year, or longer before touched) storage. Hoppes Cleaner for copper fouling. Red Grease on my triggers, rails, chokes... But .

Rem Oil has proven itself as a catch all oil for my currently "in use" guns especially for a quick patch pass on a cast dedicated gun. (Other oils can take out all the lead with just one patch pass). Rem Oil just seams to attack the powder residuals. Unless a brush is involved.
A sticky action. Or wipe down after the range. Or before taking my gun In the rain. It's great!
Drop it in the dirt at the range or hunting. A quick hose down using canned Rem Oil and back in action.
On my guns that need fouling.
I will run a gun with traditional lubed lead for about a magazine. Then switch to powder coated. Swabbing only with 1 pushed patch,with rem oil. Then it will stay accurate for about a year that way. Then one or two lead bullet and back to powder coat.

 

[smokeywolf]

I use Ballistol (mostly on BP exposed surfaces), G96, Kroil, Hoppes, Lubriplate and TW25b.

 

[Mitty38]

I use Ballistol (mostly on BP exposed surfaces), G96, Kroil, Hoppes, Lubriplate and TW25b.

I love Balistol probably as much. But never can find it locally. Either that or the price is higher then Rem when I do. Thus my transition to Rem Oil for a range bag spray lube. I can get a can at one of the local hardwares for $9, on the way to or from the range - hunt.
Plus The Balistol removes too much of the barrel fouling, too fast IMO.
So I would always have to carry an extra container of 3 in one just for swabbing the barrels on my cast shooters.


Kroil soak down, for bringing back a used rusty, pre neglected, guns. Also a mould preservative - releasing agent.

I also use Balistol as a final pre storage clean on the back powder stuff. Have a can back just for that.

 

[blackthorn]

All I have used for years for storage is Simonize wax on the outside and my home-brewed Ed's Red inside.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

My far and away favorite for corrosion resistance is Eezox. I have tested it against everything I can find nothing is as good.

I do like remoil for places where a very light thin oil is needed. I have a bottle in each of my pistol boxes for competition. Remoil also made another oil I liked for "ouly rag" status. I have a spritz left. It was a Blue Can but I cannot recolect its name now that Im sleaking about it. I ah e searched it a few times a d nothing ever pops so its probably long and away discontinued. Mine was a spray paint sized spray can.

I also like Clenzoil allot. I use as final swipe after cleaning a barrel and light cleaning.

I always loved G96 odor but it miserably failed all tests I have put it against. Smelling good is all it does well.

CW

 

[Mitty38]

Never heard of Eazox.

I had used some stuff since the 80's.
Terrible at cleaning but great for storage.
Was a big can of a mil surplus Vietnam era preservative oil. Had to shake it before use. That was white with the consistency of butter milk. Left a white film on the gun. Smothered everything I stored more then 6 months with it. Steel, wood,plastic, all.
Rebottled it over the years. And could not even tell you what it was now. I ran out like 10 years ago.
I still have not found something, that I could comfortable coat every bit of a gun with. Then put it back for 10 years untouched, in a less then Ideal storage situation.Get it out, field strip it. Then wipe it off with any oil- cleaner. That is not water based.
And have a perfectly unmolested gun.


However, getting back to Rem Oil. As a Range bag oil Rem Oil without Teflon in a spray can, is now my only choice.
I am a firm believer every product has a place. That may vary with climate and conditions of use. Rem Oils Place is in my go to bag. And down the barrel cast lead eaters.

 

[JonB]

Didn't we just have a gun oil discussion a few months ago?
I guess it never hurts to do another one.
I've never bought or used, Rem Oil or Eezox or Clenzoil or Ballistol...I wonder if I'm missing out?
.
Ed's red is my all around clean-lube-protect...but I use others depending on circumstances.
Whenever I handle a gun from the safe, and then put it back in, I'll spritz it with G96.
Guns on the gunshow table get Gunshow oil (Mobil one/STP).
Any gunked up troublesome gun parts get Kroil...and that's also what I use for mold storage.
Sometimes I will use Gunslick on semi-auto pistol slides.
BP guns get Bear grease.
I use Kano's Microil for reloading presses or any other type of fine machinery.
.
We all have our things, don't we, LOL.

 

[fiver]

G-96 is the only oil that passed the military's extreme cold weather testing.
it'll also lift rust better than anything i've ever seen.

rem oil reminds me of the 3-1 oil i normally use.
which i just used yesterday on the 625.

 

[creosote]

Mitty,
The oil you had sounds like LSA oil.

 

[dale2242]

When it comes to gun care products, everyone and their brother has favorites.

Boy, Isn`t that the truth.
I`ve been shooting/reloading for 60+ years and have tried so many different solvent and oil that it`s ridicules.
I have found some to be better than others but won`t bother to go through that now.
If you have found some that are working for you, go for it.
I have found Rem Oil to be a good all-around light oil for most uses.
BTW, I just bought a new can last week.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Here is a review I did for Professor Pew.

Was good didnt impress compaired to my Eezox

I compare this to Eezox. You can see the results.

 

[Snakeoil]

I am a recent convert to Ed's Red. Kroil was my favorite prior. Also used SS2 after Dave Hicks recommended it. It works, too. I bought Sheath from BC years ago and it has always done a good job protecting my guns from rust.
This reminds me of an oil thread on a motorhead site, only without the animosity.

 

[Ian]

Mitty,
The oil you had sounds like LSA oil.

That's exactly what it was. The military tried to get rid of it for Break Free in the 80s but the feed plate of the M60 just wouldn't work without LSA so it remained an active part and I believe is so to this day. I know it's still available and can vouch for how good it is for keeping class 3 stuff running. It's all I use on ARs.

 

[Snakeoil]

Not having been in the military and surplus gun lubes for me were from WWII or Korea, I had to look up LSA. Could not figure out what stood for. When I found it, realized I did not apply military grammar rules.

For anyone not familiar, curious and not willing to admit the have no idea what it is...

As an acronym, LSA apparently has two different definitions. Both “Lubricant, Small Arms” and “Lubricant, Semifluid, Automatic (weapons)” appear to apply. The current official military supply nomenclature for LSA is “Lubricating oil, semifluid”.

 

[RicinYakima]

It was very important during the monsoon season and you had to walk outside in the bush. The leeches dropping from the leaves hated that stuff so you could put some on the neck rag and it keep them, mostly, off the top half of your body.