Bumping UP a cast bullet

[glassparman]

So I slugged the bore of my Beretta PX4 Storm with the Meister kit and the groove diameter is .356.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I should go with a .357 diameter bullet for cast.

Now, the mold I bought throws a .356. I know some will say that is good but how would you go about bumping it up a couple thou so I can run it back through a .357 lube-sizer die?

Does the alloy play a part in shrinkage and if so, what's the better alloy for the least shrinkage?

Thanks!
Mike

 

[JWFilips]

Will you be using traditional lube or PC? PC can make up for an undersize mould

 

[S Mac]

I think I would lap that mould to the desired size.

 

[popper]

I use 401 in my PX4 40SW, works fine. I use 50/50 or about 2% Sb. PC adds couple thous. probably the easiest/cheapest way to go. More Sb will make it grow over time but not much. Hotter mould temp helps some also. Thin Al tape on the blocks will make larger but slightly out of round. Lapping the mold works, more work.
edit: hotter temp mould gives larger, I run my alloy ~720 and fast cadence of pour.

 

[Joshua]

You have a number of solutions that might solve your problem.
1. Lap your mold
2. PC
3. New mold
4. Plain base gas check
5. A swage type solution either with a proper swage die or bumping in a lubrizer

I have found that PC is a very good solution to your exact problem. I highly recommend you start looking for a cheap toaster oven at your local bargain barn.

 

[Ian]

So I slugged the bore of my Beretta PX4 Storm with the Meister kit and the groove diameter is .356.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I should go with a .357 diameter bullet for cast.

Now, the mold I bought throws a .356. I know some will say that is good but how would you go about bumping it up a couple thou so I can run it back through a .357 lube-sizer die?

Does the alloy play a part in shrinkage and if so, what's the better alloy for the least shrinkage?

Thanks!
Mike

I'm going to keep saying this, like I did in your other threads:

Groove diameter doesn't mean a thing.

Throat entrance diameter determines the maximum diameter of bullet you can load without scraping lead off on the sharp edge at the end of the chamber.

Make sense?

Modern autos often have abrupt or nonexistent throats, so you need to make some kind if measurable cast of the throat and end of the chamber so yiu know what you are working with. Those measurements will answer your question.

 

[CZ93X62]

I size all of my 9mm bullets at .357". The throats on my pistols run .3565"-.3570". Treat 9mm pistol barrels like rifle barrels, because their environment is far more rifle-like than pistol-ish. High pressures, fast twists, abrupt throat leades like leverguns have......not very lead-friendly. My usual recipe for 9mm success has been kinda-hard alloys (92/6/2), soft lubes, and medium-speed pistol/shotgun powders for my Euro-level cast bullet practice loads (120-125 grain bullets @ 1200-1250 FPS).

 

[Mitty38]

So I slugged the bore of my Beretta PX4 Storm with the Meister kit and the groove diameter is .356.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I should go with a .357 diameter bullet for cast.

Now, the mold I bought throws a .356. I know some will say that is good but how would you go about bumping it up a couple thou so I can run it back through a .357 lube-sizer die?

Does the alloy play a part in shrinkage and if so, what's the better alloy for the least shrinkage?

Thanks!
Mike

No offence to anyone. But these fellows sometimes will take you all the way around town to get to the store across the street. LOL

PX storm is a wet work semi auto pistol, it is not a precision long distance rifle.

Before you go down the rabbit hole too far. Since you have some cast.
If you have powder coat.

Coat some. Then try them out. See if it does what you want.
If nothing else you will learn what you gun does not like, and get a starting point. Worst case you will have to clean your barrel, and throat.
If it does not work out then listen to Ian and do the throat casting thing. Once you get a good measurment the fellows here will be able to walk you thru and teach you a few things in the process.

 

[glassparman]

Well, I have an ingot of cerrosafe so I could do a chamber cast.

I tried just briefly to do a dry tumble powder coat with not much luck. I have the old toaster oven.

If anyone has detail instructions on "easy" PC, I would like to try.

Mike

 

[Mitty38]

Ye if you have the stuff you may as well cast the chamber. Did not realize you had cerrosafe. Probably my lack of attention.
As for the powder coating humidity can get you messed up a bit.45 to 60 percent is ideal.
Also if you used a regular tumbler a lot of the containers are not ideal for static production.
Some fellows add bit of something to produce static.
Myself I just use a #5 butter dish and swirel swirel. If humidity is too low, I boil some water in the room, if it is too high I turn on the dehumidifier. Course I live in Ohio so if the weather is not right for something, Just wait a while and it will change. LOL
I use an easy powder Eastwood Maroon or Blue.
I will preheat sometimes with a hair dryer if the humidity is high, it helps a lot.

But there are lots of fellows with different methods here, and a lot more experience in coating bullets then me.
So basically if you post what you are using and how you are going about it. I am sure one of those fellows will chime in.

 

[Mitty38]

Powder Coating

www.gunandgame.com

Here is a link to a thread started on another forum that has a lot of basics.

 

[Matt]

I’d cast and lube some and then see if it shoots.......I’ve had an old S&W M39 that shot .355” dia cast and swaged bullets as accurately as jacketed. You’ll have lots of time to tinker if .356” doesn’t work. I suspect it might work fine. Some 9mm won’t chamber .357” bullets in certain brass any how.

 

[fiver]

yep,,, throw a few down the barrel.
if it don't work then you can mess with the alloy a bit, or change the mold.
you got the bullets right there....
oh and you might get a little growth if you wait a couple of weeks.
plus it'll buy you a little time to think and research, unless it works then you can just keep on going on.

 

[Tomme boy]

My gen 5 g19 takes a 0.356" bullet. Anything bigger and it gets hung up and I have to push the slide closed or try to eject it. My problem is a chamber problem not throat. It comes from brass that is too thick. I powder coat and size to 0.356" and the barrel is as clean door cleaner than jacketed.

While my cz75 is set up for 0.358" if they are conventionally lube. 0.357" if powder coated. Your life will be much simpler if you powder coat. And cheaper.

This is another thing you need to keep an eye on.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Well, I have an ingot of cerrosafe so I could do a chamber cast.

I tried just briefly to do a dry tumble powder coat with not much luck. I have the old toaster oven.

If anyone has detail instructions on "easy" PC, I would like to try.

Mike

Mike,
There is no stead fast "rule". Generally filks find a few thousandths larger than bore works best. But as pointed out in say a revolver the cyl throat swages the bullet to what ever dia it is. Sometimes and much to our schagrin... that dia is SMALLER than the rifling in the barrel...
So NO MATTER what size you will not get good results and probably alot of leading in the process. But as a rule try .002 larger and you will Most likely be in the wheel house.


You can also slug a barrel with a soft slug ir ball, to know its dia. Also as suggested, you can make a chamber cast a d if ya push the plug about a 1" into the bbl you can measure bore too.


If ya are really interested in how others powder coat, there are a number of us on uTube ta show ya how we powdercoat bullets.
Elvis ammo
Fortune cookie 45
Charles Irby
I also have a channel, cwlongshot.
You can search any of these names and they will come up for you.

Its nice to see how others do and enjoy what we like. There are many ways to acheive the same Results. Each works well for the person using them.

CW

 

[Bret4207]

I’d cast and lube some and then see if it shoots.......I’ve had an old S&W M39 that shot .355” dia cast and swaged bullets as accurately as jacketed. You’ll have lots of time to tinker if .356” doesn’t work. I suspect it might work fine. Some 9mm won’t chamber .357” bullets in certain brass any how.

Shoot some and see. Everything else is guess work.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

Also. Ya aint gonna have safety issues with a "too fat" cast as long as the Bullet "goes into the chamber"
Cast isnt jacketed. A too large jacketed will also swage down but pressures raise allot more then a "fat" cast bullet would.

So ya dont really need to be as worried in that regard.

cW

 

[Rex]

I have "Beagled" a couple of 38 Special moulds with good success.

 

[Ian]

Just don't ask for "Beagling tape" at the hardware store unless you happen to be in the deep south and the employee knows John.

 

[Bret4207]

True. If you go to Lowes you'll find it back in the hot air heating and duct work section. Silver metal tape with a wax paper backer underneath, actual "duct tape" as opposed to the more common "duck tape". FWIW, it also works really good on hot air heating ducts. Who'da thunk it?!!!