wquiles
Well-Known Member
As I continue to have fun with my 45 Super project, I wanted to see what large meplat 45cal bullet I can make work in my 1911 project gun. I am currently trying a 250gr GC WFN mold from Tom at Accurate, but it is generating a little bit too much pressure and its weight being on the "high" side, I wanted to try something lighter.
From searching I found this post about the Lee 300gr 45 Colt mold which has a massive .385" meplat:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...plat-45-colt-bullets-5-5-inch-barrel-Ruger-BH
Of course I want something less than 250gr, but more than 200gr, so before I ask Tom to make me another mold, I wanted to experiment with that Lee mold, so I got it for about $20 shipped from Amazon, the idea being: can I "trim" the top of the mold and re-attach the sprue cuter to end up with a reasonable bullet?:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...ll-452-diameter-300-grain-flat-nose-gas-check
I got the mold, and since I don't trust the lower surfaces being flat, I used a larger end mill to "align" the top of the mold in my vise:
I then used a roughing end mill to cut it down:
I kept making passes until I got close to leaving a bevel base at the end of the grease groove:
Then to simulate the cuts to allow the top surface to breath air (like modern molds to), I did light passes at high speed (of course by hand) X-feed to create the right "pattern":
Lightly smoked and ready to try:
From searching I found this post about the Lee 300gr 45 Colt mold which has a massive .385" meplat:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...plat-45-colt-bullets-5-5-inch-barrel-Ruger-BH
Of course I want something less than 250gr, but more than 200gr, so before I ask Tom to make me another mold, I wanted to experiment with that Lee mold, so I got it for about $20 shipped from Amazon, the idea being: can I "trim" the top of the mold and re-attach the sprue cuter to end up with a reasonable bullet?:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...ll-452-diameter-300-grain-flat-nose-gas-check
I got the mold, and since I don't trust the lower surfaces being flat, I used a larger end mill to "align" the top of the mold in my vise:
I then used a roughing end mill to cut it down:
I kept making passes until I got close to leaving a bevel base at the end of the grease groove:
Then to simulate the cuts to allow the top surface to breath air (like modern molds to), I did light passes at high speed (of course by hand) X-feed to create the right "pattern":
Lightly smoked and ready to try: