Does Anyone Recommend This?

[Bisley]

I have been solicited to buy a power chainsaw sharpener. It looks intriguing. Searching online I see them from $17 at Walmart to $124. You clamp the device on your saw chain, and it acts like a jig to get the right cut. I spent $30+ over three years for a pouch with tools in it, but I have trouble with the the three- er, ahm, free-handed operation.

Can anybody recommend such a tool, or are they worth the effort? I can sharpen my Home Depot saw chains for seven dollars a throw in about five business days' turnaround.

For reference: the wholesaler I follow sells .38 Sp. and .45ACP for roughly fifty cents a round, shipped, in 500 round lots. Any recommendations?

Bisley

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

I have always used a file. If the chain got "that bad" I replaced it.

I have tried the attachment on the dremel but dont like it its too fast a cut.

 

[Jeff H]

Gained one in a divorce - not mine. Was helping move his stuff out and he gave me a bunch of stuff he didn't want/need any more.

I tried it, but it was pretty sloppy and gave fits setting it to grind the same on both sides. The result in a saw that cuts in wide circles. Ruined one chain, tossed it in a dumpster. That was a HF model. Maybe there are better ones, but sharpening anything really comes down to practice. If you haven't developed a feel for sharpening, in general, keep working on it and find someone to sharpen them on a professional machine in the interim.

If the guy's honest and has a clue, you can get 2 or 3 good sharpenings out of a good chain. Chains are getting expensive, so $6, $7 to get one sharpened is worth it. I can do it with a file, but it's tedious and I could be splitting or stacking instead of sharpening. I'll do it if I HAVE to, but have been taking mine to a guy to get them done and he does a good job.

 

[Rick H]

I won't use a power sharpener. They kill chains. I sharpen with a "2 in one chainsaw sharpener". The one I have was made in Germany. Stihl imports them now and put their name on it. One handle carries 3 files, two round and one flat. Every time I use my saws I hit it with the sharpener ....3-5 strokes per tooth. It files the hook and the raker at the same time. No overheating the chain and killing temper. They are pricey but do a much better job than any electric sharpener and are just as quick. The guy in the video sharpens at his own angle. I use the one designed into the sharpener and my saws cut just fine. Oh yeah, I run Huskys not Stihls, still a great sharpening system.
The link is a video showing it in use.

 

[fiver]

i've never used anything but a file to sharpen a saw blade.
i kind of enjoy the process,,,,, and i got about 200 files.

 

[Bret4207]

A GOOD power chain grinder is one thing, a HF type job is another. A good grinder is going to run you several hundred bucks. I would strongly suggest you either get a jig like Rick H suggested above or what I prefer, which is a simple roller guide as sold by Husqvarna and others. The biggest problem in sharpening a chain isn't top plate angle, it's not keeping the file high enough on the tooth and maintaining a little "rake" to the cutter. A roller guide makes all this simple. You just need to get the one that matches your saw chain pitch, eg- 1/4", .325, 3/8" whatever. It's built for Oregon chain and Stihl chain (the good stuff) will require opening the sides a little.

Combination Chainsaw File Guide

The Roller File Guide with a depth gauge tool is an all-in-one, easy to handle and use filing tool. Fits in your pocket. Use in conjunction with our round and

www.husqvarna.com

 

[Farmerjim]

I started using a jig, and it worked fine, but it was too slow. Switched to just a file, and have never looked back.

 

[L Ross]

I have a couple of jigs layin' around and I used to have a vice on a plank with a clamp I'd take with me in the field. My Father-in-Law watched me one day and asked why I didn't just free hand my chain with a file. I told him I cut curves when I did. He gave me a lesson and with some practice I have never gone back. 4 passes on each tooth before each use, and knock down the rakers once in awhile.
Some times I get it dead nuts perfect and the chain cuts like new. Most of the time it's just pretty good, nice chips, loads the saw, pretty straight cuts. Good enough for a fire wood hacker like me.

 

[300BLK]

I tried a clamp-on jig, have a grinder, but use a file freehand unless a chain has been rocked, or hit metal in wood. My long bar is 42" and I use it for slabbing with an Alaskan mill. That one takes a while, but shorter bars are pretty easy with SHARP files.

Square chisel should cut quickest, full chisel (round) next quickest, followed by semi-chisel, and then ripping chain. Semi-chisel (Stihl RM) doesn't dull nearly as quickly, and mills as smoothly as ripping chain(!).

 

[JonB]

Gained one in a divorce - not mine. Was helping move his stuff out and he gave me a bunch of stuff he didn't want/need any more.

I tried it, but it was pretty sloppy and gave fits setting it to grind the same on both sides. The result in a saw that cuts in wide circles. Ruined one chain, tossed it in a dumpster. That was a HF model.

I bought the HF, I don't know why? I took it out of the box once, never used it, then sold it at a garage sale to my neighbor for 1/4 of retail.
.
I've tried the guide that Stihl sells, to much of a hassle for me.
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I file 'em free hand. I enjoy a rest break from sawing/loading wood while filing, takes about 20 minutes per chain. It's rare for me to get the number of filings where the rakers need to be touched, so I almost never touch the rakers. Usually, I screw up the chain (by hitting gravel/sand or yeah, I've wrecked a few with the file too). The wrecked chains get set aside, for when they have a sale on resharpening...I'm still waiting, LOL.
.
Not too long ago (before covid) chains [woodlandPRO] were cheap at Bailey's. I probably bought a lifetime supply, both 16" and 20" were $10 each with free shipping if you bought more than 10.
.
Right as covid started, my friends got the "stock up on stuff" bug. My one friend who mentored me in the art of the chainsaw, is a bit of a recluse and I've ordered him chains. Well, I wasn't gonna part with any from my stash, so I started looking around, I seen baileys prices had increased, then I stumbled onto jeremywell Intl, they were selling chains on ebay for cheap. I ordered a couple to try out, it is decent chain, packaging is branded/named "Longer". Anyway, I ordered 20 more, some for my buddy and some for me. One thing that's a bit of a pain, is these have a burr/edge that needs to be removed so you can hand file them with the correct round file...I just hit that with a 4" grinder with cutoff wheel before the first filing is needed. Those chains were $8 each, but now they've doubled in price.

 

[Snakeoil]

My cousin bought the cheap Horror Fright sharpener. POS. Actually, I think that it was a present and he never took it back. He bought a namebrand sharpener and was very happy with it. He heats with wood so he's always sharpening chains.

My experience is from way back in the 80's when I heated with wood. I always used a file. The trick that a lot of newbies don't know is you have to file down the rakers as well. If they are not brought down as the cutting teeth wear, the chain will not cut. It will just make sawdust.

 

[Cadillac Jeff]

To join in & give My answer No.
I was a power line Tree Trimer for 16 years before I went in the line department so I have sharpened my share of chains.

Just get yourself a goodly supply of the right size files and don't forget a good flat file for the rakers , yes they need attention also just not to much( maybe 2 strokes on the third sharpening) don't go overboard on the rakers less is more kinda thing .
Remember you are putting an edge on the flat part on top not the hook ( inner) part of the tooth.

Oh & go to your nearest saw Dealer he should help ya get the right files & maybe give you a lesson.

Easier to do than to tell !

Hope this helps, Jeff

 

[RBHarter]

I've sharpened miles of chain , easily 100s, we cut fire wood commercially for several years. I became fairly proficient with the die grinder bat wing types we had a manual bar clamp bridge type at home we used to correct pitch and depth of cut.

 

[Petrol & Powder]

I've used the jigs, including the bench mounted powered ones - and was not impressed;. I used a 12 volt rotary cutter (sort of like Dremel tool with a cylinder shaped stone) - OK for light touch up but useless for real sharpening. Hand held files - probably the best all-around method.

However - Full disclosure here - I SUCK at sharpening chain saw chains! I can and I have done it, but I'm slow and my finished work is medicore.

My solution was to get about 5 chains and rotate them as they dull. When the 5th one is on the saw, I take the other 4 to a professional and pay him to sharpen them. I perfer the semi-chisel for the reasons provided by 300blk. They are a good compromise between speed and durability of the cutting edge.

Back when I was cutting a LOT of firewood, the above system gave me the highest productivity. The cost of having the chains sharpened was nothing compared to the cost of my time. If I cut wood for a living, I would learn how to sharpen chains.

 

[RicinYakima]

Back before the Spotted Owl blowup, the east side of the Cascade mountains was logging country. FS fee was $5 for five cords of wood from downed timber. Since I was only cutting for my own use, two chains worked for me; one on the saw and one being sharpened.

 

[Bret4207]

Freehand filing is fine as long as the guy running the file knows what he's supposed to be doing. For a novice, the various file jigs are a great help. When I had the saw shop I found even loggers tended to undercut the top plate too much sometimes. A real saw grinder that can get some hook into the tooth can be a great help in fixing 95% of the freehand filing I've seen, including my own. The trick is to take the minimum amount needed off the cutter.

 

[Bisley]

This is the kind of stuff I need to hear. My chainsaw file pouch has the files which fit my chains (I forget the numbers, but I remember learning the selection process four years ago). My situation is that I live in a mature subdivision, which means somebody's cutting down at least a cord or two of wood during the summer, and I invite them to just have the timber cutter dump it at my place. Resident gets the "keep the wood" discount and the cutter doesn't have to haul the stuff. Popple, pine, oak, cherry, and hickory have all come in. Season it thoroughly and it burns clean. Cuts my NIPSCO bill in half during the winter. I have never paid for firewood.

Thanks.

Bisley

 

[JonB]

I could say I never paid for firewood
Oh, I should also mention I've never paid for a cast bullet either

 

[Bret4207]

This is the kind of stuff I need to hear. My chainsaw file pouch has the files which fit my chains (I forget the numbers, but I remember learning the selection process four years ago). My situation is that I live in a mature subdivision, which means somebody's cutting down at least a cord or two of wood during the summer, and I invite them to just have the timber cutter dump it at my place. Resident gets the "keep the wood" discount and the cutter doesn't have to haul the stuff. Popple, pine, oak, cherry, and hickory have all come in. Season it thoroughly and it burns clean. Cuts my NIPSCO bill in half during the winter. I have never paid for firewood.

Thanks.

Bisley

I had a Husqvarna/Jonsered dealership back int he 80's. Get a roller jig, you'll thank me later. They're under $15.00 last I knew.