Initial trim to new or 1F brass is mainly what I do. Using a good, steel resizing die that isn't any more "tight" than necessary seems to go a long way toward minimizing case growth. The whole reason I do the trim to .38/.357/.44/.45 Colt etc. brass is to get the roll crimp correct and uniform. It's not an accuracy thing, it's a necessary thing for me to get the ammunition assembled correctly. Maybe if you use a bullet with a humongous crimp groove, exact trim length matters less, but I insist on small crimp grooves and the case mouth being pushed firmly in contact with the slopey side of the groove. If that one thing didn't matter to me, I wouldn't bother trimming and monitoring case length because I don't shoot revolvers competitively or for extreme accuracy MOST of the time.
Speaking of rebukes, this IS NOT one for you guys who don't bother to trim revolver brass. I do and will because for my purposes I deem it necessary.
One step I didn't see mentioned, but I do even with my mixed range blazing brass, is to sort by neck tension. Sometimes I do this by the feel of bullet seating pressure when loading and other times by the feel of the expanding spud when batch-processing with a Lee Pro-1000 set up with only an expanding die. Targets will show the difference this type of sorting makes quite clearly.
I'll quit shooting .45 ACP long before I EVER bother to trim or chamfer a single piece of brass, and so far with a pile of cases that have literally been fired dozens of times I've never discarded a case due to length. The taper crimp is more tolerant of variances in case length and thickness than a roll crimp, obviously.