GC Flare tool

[Brad]

I'm like a proud father!

Al has the flare tool live on his website.
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=432&osCsid=4r60cgllhju1hqd7pk0d1hrgd0

Here is a quick review of the tool he sent me for evaluation.


The tool is very nicely machined. The business end of the ram is nicely finished and has a slight rounding of the corner. This makes it easy to remove a flared check with no tools. I hate fiddly tools and this one certainly avoids that.


The ram punch is nicely marked. I like that.


The die is threaded into the press u til it just touched the ram punch with the ram at full extension.



The check is flared enough to fit even the most stubborn of bullet bases. The tool allowed me to easily seat checks on my MP 30 sil, this mould casts a base just large enough to let factory checks scrape the sides of the shank. This is no longer a concern.

The tool works just like it was designed to work. The price is very reasonable and quality is very good. I would recommend this tool to anyone suffering with a mould that has a slightly large check shank.

 

[Rick]

Priced right too.

 

[Brad]

 

[Ben]

Great Photo work Brad ! !

 

[Brad]

Thanks Ben. Not bad for an IPhone. The video was a bit interesting. I sure wish I had that third hand some days.

 

[yodogsandman]

That'll save my thumbs! Just ordered mine! Thanks for the tip!

Should be able to place a top punch in a shell holder on the ram and seat the GCs, too!

 

[freebullet]

Looks to be a quality product & it solves a problem, can't beat that.

 

[popper]

Will it work for those GC that are recycled? Got a lot of them I'd like to re-use, get tired of puling them off the drill bit stem. If Al did a longer shaft with a floating collar, they would pop off.

 

[Brad]

I can't see what it wouldn't work for recycled checks. I never even thought of reusing checks. It should flatten the base and flare the sides all in one motion.

A floating collar would work. Down side is needing another part and extra expense. Never thought of that either. This is why most good ideas need to see daylight and get feedback. Someone always thinks of something just a bit different.

 

[popper]

Colllar doesn't need to be much more than a tube around the ram with a proper top & hole. Might get one and some PVC & washer to try.

 

[9.3X62AL]

I have given considerable use to the 35 caliber tool that Brad sent my way last month. I see a few more calibers in my future, that 35 bore check flaring tool is so good at what it does.

This Hornady check/Lyman GC shank interface issue is one that has bedeviled me since I began this hobby in 1981. For the 30 caliber problem, the mouth flaring tool from a prehistoric Lee Loader in 38 Special is about perfect--just right to flare the check sidewalls to accept the shank of the 311291 and 311041 and enable proper seating. I prefer this system of Brad's design, though.

 

[waco]

Well I'm proud to say that I have an original made from the man himself! It works awesome!
Thanks again Brad!
Walter

 

[Chris]

Being a questioning sort... no offense: would a homemade expander like Ben posted do just as well and faster? Thinking production.

Also, for the few of us that use Forster presses it is a tad uncomfortable to use shellholders. No biggy to the other 99% of the press using world though.

Not being negative here, just bringing an issue or two forward. As always, you pay your money and take your chances...

 

[Rick]

Best solution I can think of to use these is to try and pick up a used press. I picked up a Rock Chucker for $25 several years ago, deals do happen.

 

[Chris]

Best solution I can think of to use these is to try and pick up a used press. I picked up a Rock Chucker for $25 several years ago, deals do happen.

Well I have couple of old Lee's laying around and they would do fine. I just wanted to ask the question, mainly: would a guy be better off making his own punch if production was important? Now the price for the NOE product is ridiculously inexpensive so it just comes down to can you make more just as well with a punch if you have the interest?

Not being negative, I understand it takes time to make a punch and that is not for many folks, but can we compare the two approaches? Or maybe it's whatever...

 

[Rick]

Yep, you can absolutely make a punch to do the same thing. I have one in several calibers plus a few other types of check sizers. It actually isn't much faster though and not as convenient. I also have check sizers like Brad's except Brad turned it upside down. With mine the anvil is in the shell holder and the punch screws into the press. Brad's idea is far better on several counts.

 

[Rick]

If you do decide to make one from a punch I suggest using a metal working center punch. With it's tapered design it's fairly simple to just shorten the punch until the diameter is correct for the caliber your making, then put a slight chamfer on the flattened end. It must be flat and square or you will size the checks crooked.

 

[Chris]

If you do decide to make one from a punch I suggest using a metal working center punch. With it's tapered design it's fairly simple to just shorten the punch until the diameter is correct for the caliber your making, then put a slight chamfer on the flattened end. It must be flat and square or you will size the checks crooked.

Thanks, good advice and makes sense. I been having a heck of a time with undersize checks in .44 I bought but if I can spread them a bit I can make it work. I have always had the concern that flat and malleable checks are needed for accuracy. I have found benefit in annealing them but I think gains are to be made by seating them more flat. The base of the bullet is so important to accuracy. Flat and square is where it's at.

 

[Brad]

I grew weary of the whack whack whack using a hammer and punch. My bench is happier now too.

 

[KHornet]

And, I am the proud owner as of last Christmas of a full set of them for every cal that I shoot.

Paul