gun oil/lube formula (LIM)

JonB

JonB

Halcyon member
I've been thinking about a gun oil with some schtick, that's a little more slick.
Yesterday, I cooked some up.
ATF, with some Lanolin melted in. Added some Castor oil, then thinned with Turpentine.
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My Theory is ATF by itself is pretty good. Lanolin helps the oil cling to metal. Castor oil should reduce friction, if there happens to be any friction on whatever is lubed. The Turpentine thins it, so it's more likely flow into tight spaces more readily, then evaporate off after a day or so, leaving a thicker viscosity. I like the smell of Turpentine.
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Did I just waste my time?
I really like the feel, and when I cleaned up the pot after the heating/blending, I liked how it clinged to the Stainless steel pot.
The testing phase starts now.
 
I read Ed's article many years ago. I do use Ed's red for cleaning, and it does leave a protective coating.
I dreamed up this formula for use as a oil/lube.
 
I suppose I should have mentioned, this formula is about 85% ATF and less than 9% each of the other ingredients.
 
JonB said:
My Theory is ATF by itself is pretty good. Lanolin helps the oil cling to metal. Castor oil should reduce friction, if there happens to be any friction on whatever is lubed. The Turpentine thins it, so it's more likely flow into tight spaces more readily, then evaporate off after a day or so, leaving a thicker viscosity. I like the smell of Turpentine.
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Other than the enjoyment of being a backyard, hobby chemist - I'm not sure you’re accomplishing much there.

“ATF” [Automatic Transmission Fluid] is a very broad description of a huge family of fluids. So, it’s difficult to quantify exactly what that moniker means to you.

Generally speaking, ATF is a lightweight (low viscosity) oil, typically around 10 weight oil, used as a hydraulic fluid. To that base is added ALL sorts of things such as anti-foaming additives, surfactants, dye, friction modifiers, and a bunch of other stuff. But basically, it’s a 10 weight, high detergent oil with red dye and some friction modifiers. There was a time when I used DEXTRON II as a general-purpose gun oil and I would be happy to return to that practice if I needed to. (at that time in my life, small quantities of ATF were practically free)

ATF needs no help in clinging to metal, so the addition of Lanolin for that benefit is probably a waste of lanolin. I seriously doubt that adding Castor Oil (a vegetable oil) to ATF will do anything to reduce friction and may even be harmful for long term storage. ATF is a damn good friction reducer all on its own. It doesn’t need any help there.

Turpintine will thin (reduce the viscosity) of the ATF that’s pretty thin to start with. While it may have some cleaning benefits, I doubt that it’s really needed.

I know people love Ed’s Red but I’m not sure it’s the great magic elixir that it is often portrayed to be. I don’t think it’s harmful, but I’m not convinced that its awesome either.
 
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After a couple of adventures with significant lead fouling stuck to pore imbedded copper/brass/guilding/cupronickel fouling I find myself endeared to Kroil . It smells nice leaves some film that thus far has been effective for anti rust properties ,and "gets under " the impacted metals . Functionally it's probably not far from type F and turpentine.
 
RBHarter said:
After a couple of adventures with significant lead fouling stuck to pore imbedded copper/brass/guilding/cupronickel fouling I find myself endeared to Kroil . It smells nice leaves some film that thus far has been effective for anti rust properties ,and "gets under " the impacted metals . Functionally it's probably not far from type F and turpentine.
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Or Type F and acetone.
 
ER is versatile enough to allow substitutions. I can't recommend Marvel Mystery Oil though. First of all, the only time I ever has rust problems with ER was when I substituted MMO for ATF. Everything rusted really quickly, guns, moulds, tools, all surface rusted. To save the batch I added in a quart of ATF along with an additional unmeasured splash of the other ingredients and ended my rust issue.

The second reason to not use MMO is that the resulting mix smells a lot like cheap toothpaste.
 
MMO absorbs moisture which is why it is recommended for seasonal use equipment. In an engine accumulated residual moisture from condensation in the crankcase is liberated into the exhaust as steam, but at room temps you can get rust.
 
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RicinYakima said:
Amazing! I think Kroil stinks so bad I wont have it in the gun cleaning room...
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That's funny, because I LOVE the smell of it. It reminds me of Pine-Sol for some reason, which reminds me of my earliest days in the Army - Fort Benning.

Ballistol,... I don't hate it, I wouldn't sprinkle it in my car for its calming essence,... it's growing on me though.

Ed's Red - Not magic. Magic is not require to do what it does and it does what it does well and I KNOW what's in it.

All the other snake oil BS on the market - NOT magic and no better or any more capable or special than Ed's Red, especially at their platinum prices.
 
What is the benefit of having both kerosene and aliphatic mineral spirits in Ed's Red? They are of similar composition, with kerosene having a higher average number of carbons in the alkane chain. Are there other differences in composition that are beneficial?
 
Jon, I get it but I'm with Petrol & Powder on this one.

My concern with gun lubricants isn't so much what they do today, but what they will become in five or ten years (gunk, water absorbing goo, and grit/dust attractant). Heavy transmission fluid like Dexron III is paraffin based, semi-polar, doesn't gum up, keeps carbon in suspension, contains mild anti-oxidants and anti-corrosives, evaporates slowly, and so on.

@JWinAZ , Ed's Red is a balance of polar and non-polar ingredients. ATF, being a hydrocarbon oil, is fundamentally non-polar but contains additives which make it semi-polar so that it has an affinity for metal and the ability to absorb condensed moisture during periods of rest. Acetone is highly polar. The other two ingredients are both non-polar, displacing water quite effectively from metal surfaces. Why both kerosene and Stoddard solvent are included I couldn't say except they have different flash points and viscosity which sort of round out the flash point spectrum of the mix. Perhaps Outpost75 could provide more insight into the development, I do seem to remember that cost and ready availability of ingredients within the military supply chain had a lot to do with it.
 
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