Heat Treating Steel

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
Heat Treating Steel
What is steel?

Basic steel is a solution of iron (an element) and carbon (an element). Just as sugar or salt can be dissolved in water, carbon can be dissolved in iron. The maximum amount of carbon that can be held in solution is 1.73% by weight. Any carbon in excess of that will clump together as graphite in the form of flakes or other shapes and is called cast iron. If you break a piece of cast iron and rub it against a clean white rag you will see a silvery smear which is the exposed carbon on the surface. Most cast iron has anywhere from 2% to 5% carbon.

Alloy steel consists of iron and carbon and other metallic elements such as chromium, vanadium, etc. Alloy steels have been developed to improve the properties of basic steel such as increasing the strength, making it more ductile, imparting corrosion resistance, or making it easier to heat treat.

We will deal with basic steel first.

Microstructure of steel

Basic steel can have five phases or microstructures (the arrangement of atoms). The softest phase is called ferrite and is a body centered cubic (BCC) structure. The hardest phase is martensite, which is a body centered tetragonal (BCT) structure. Both of these phases are magnetic. When steel is heated above a critical temperature (about 1400F) it turns into a structure called austenite which is face centered cubic (FCC) structure and is nonmagnetic. The other two phases (pearlite and bainite) are ferrite plus a compound known as iron carbide (Fe3C). We will deal with ferrite, martensite and austenite.

In order to harden steel it must have a minimum of 0.25% carbon; less than that and it cannot form martensite.

Steps to Harden Steel

There are four steps to successfully harden steel:

1. Heat above the critical (phase change or transformation) temperature.
2. Hold at that temperature long enough for all of the material to form austenite.
3. Quench quickly enough to form martensite.
4. When the steel cools to about 250F – 300F reheat it to temper it.

Tempering relieves any internal stresses caused by untransformed martensite and while it reduces the maximum hardness a little it imparts toughness and eliminates brittleness and imparts some ductility into the material. The higher the tempering temperature the more hardness is reduced and the ductility increased so the desired hardness and ductility level must be based on the tempering temperature.

Steps to Anneal Steel

If it is desired to soften steel (to make it more ductile for forming operations or make it easier to machine) three steps are required:

1. Heat above the critical (phase change or transformation) temperature.
2. Hold at that temperature long enough for all of the material to form austenite.
3. Quench slowly enough to form ferrite.

It is standard practice to take steel that has not been annealed and soften it for machining, forming or welding by annealing it and then hardening it to reach the desired hardness and strength level.

Below is a diagram that shows what happens during the cooling of steel from the austenitic phase. The vertical axis shows temperature in Celsius, the horizontal axis is time (note that it is not linear but logarithmic). The green line is the transformation start temperature, the black line is the transformation end temperature. If the material cools quickly enough to miss the knee or nose of the transformation start temperature it will turn into martensite at about 220C (about 425F). If it cools slowly enough to pass through the transformation curve it will turn into one of the ferritic structures (bainite or pearlite). Plain carbon steel must cool in just a few seconds to form martensite as shown by the water or oil quench curve; letting it air cool will anneal the steel.

1683264110556.png

Alloy Steels

Just about any alloying element will push the nose or knee of the transformation curve to the right and allow the steel to be cooled slower and still reach maximum hardness. Plain carbon steel must be cooled so quickly that it is usually considered a water hardening steel, The need for rapid cooling limits the size or thickness of the steel; too thick and the inside cannot cool quick enough. It can also cause cracking. Moderately alloyed steel is often oil quenched which reduces the chance of cracking. Highly alloyed steels can often be air cooled and still harden fully. Conversely, plain carbon steel can be annealed just by air cooling it, whereas alloyed steels must be cooled far more slowly to anneal. Some air hardening steels must be cooled in the furnace by reducing the temperature of the oven slowly over an extended period, sometimes as long as 12 to 24 hours. (This explains the higher cost of air hardening tool steels; not only do the alloying element increase the cost, the time and energy costs drive up the price.)

Carbon steels can turn into austenite in just a few seconds. The more alloying elements there are in steel the longer it takes to turn into austenite. Remember that steel must turn completely into austenite so that it can turn completely into martensite

Handy tip: To make sure the steel has completely turned into austenite test it with a magnet – when the steel is no longer attracted to a magnet it is austenite.

Carbon and alloy steel numbering system


The AISI (American Iron and Steel Institute) and the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) use a four (or sometime five) digit numbering system to classify steels. The automotive industry is one of the largest consumers of steel, thus their input. The first two digits are the alloy type, the last two (or three) digits represent the carbon content in 0.1% Thus a plain carbon steel such as 1045 has a 10 to represent a plain carbon steel and the 45 represents 0.45% carbon. This is a hardenable steel because it has more than 0.25% carbon. A steel such as 1018 has too low a carbon content to harden. If you want to make it harder you must infuse carbon into the surface by case hardening it.

(Many early guns were made from low carbon steels and then wear parts such as the trigger and sear were case hardened. Case hardening is not very deep so too much metal removal can often cut through that layer and leave the resulting surfaces too soft for long use.)

Here is a chart of AISI/SAE steels grades:

Description
Designation
Composition
Carbon Steel​
10XX​
Plain carbon, Mn 1.00% max​
11XX​
Resulfurized free machining​
12XX​
Resulfurized/rephosphorized free machining​
15XX​
Plain carbon, Mn 1.00 – 1.65%​
Manganese steels​
13XX​
Mn 1.75%​
Nickel steels​
23XX​
Ni 3.50%​
25XX​
Ni 5.00%​
N9ckel Chromium steels​
31XX​
Ni 1.25% Cr-.65% to 0.80%​
32XX​
Ni 1.75% Cr 1.07%​
33XX​
Ni 3.5% Cr 1.50 to 1.57%​
34XX​
Ni 3.00% Cr 0.77%​
Molybdenum steels​
40XX​
Mo 0.20% to 0.25%​
44XX​
Mo 0.40% to 0.52%​
Chromium Molybdenum steels​
41XX​
Cr 0.50% to 0.95% Mo 0.12% to 0.30%​
Nickel Chromium Molybdenum steels​
43XX​
Ni 1.82% Cr 0.50% to 0.80% Mo 0.25%​
47XX​
Ni 1.05% Cr 0.45% Mo 0.20% to 0.25%​
Nickel Molybdenum steels​
46XX​
Ni 0.85% to 1.82% Mo 0.20% to 0.25%​
48XX​
Ni 3.50% Mo 0.25%​
Chromium steels​
50XX​
Cr 0.27% to 0.65%​
51XX​
Cr 0.80% to 1.05%​
50XXX​
Cr 0.50% C 1.00 minimum​
51XXX​
Cr 1.02% C 1.00% minimum​
52XXX​
Cr 1.45% C 1.00% minimum​
Chromium Vanadium steels​
61XX​
Cr 0.60% to 0.95% V 0.10% to 0.15%​
Tungsten Chromium steels​
72XX​
W 1.75% Cr 0/75%​
Nickel Chromium Molybdenum steels​
81XX​
Ni 0.30% Cr 0.40% Mo 0.12%​
86XX​
Ni 0.55% Cr 0.50% Mo 0.20%​
87XX​
Ni 0.55% Cr 0.50% Mo 0.25%​
88XX​
Ni 0.55% Cr 0.50% Mo 0.35%​
Silicon Manganese steels​
92XX​
Si 1.40% to 2.00% Mn 0.65% to 0.85% Cr 0.65%​
Nickel Chromium Molybdenum steels​
93XX​
Ni 3.25% Cr 1.20% Mo 0.12%​
94XX​
Ni 0.45% Cr 0.40% Mo 0.12%​
97XX​
Ni 0.55% Cr 0.20% Mo 0.20%​
98XX​
Ni 1.00% Cr 0.80% Mo 0.25%​
 

Attachments

  • AISI_SAE_STEELS.xls
    9 KB · Views: 3
Last edited:

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
You're quite welcome and thank you for the compliment.

It's a simplified version of some material I would present to the students in an engineering materials science course I used to teach. I am hoping it will help people who want to heat treat knives and other steel tools.

I love shows such as "Forged in Fire" but I've only seen a few of the contestants use a magnet to test their blades before quenching, The ones that do seem to fare better than the ones that don't. Too much "wisdom of the ages" bullsh*t and too little "wisdom of modern science"!
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
For those of you that have any designs on making folders, blade steel is heat treated to a higher Rockwell hardness than the springs.

My work was done with 440C stainless, a very common blade steel. I had the blades heat treated to Rockwell 58 and the springs to Rockwell 48.
 
Last edited:

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
There are several other classification systems besides the AISI/SAE system which is used for carbon and alloy steels. There is one for tool steels, another for stainless steels, and yet another for construction steels. And there are also a lot of unclassified special purpose steels that are proprietary and are named by the manufacturer. I'll see if I can find a good reference somewhere on the Net for them and I'll post a link here.

440 steel is a good steel for knives. And it is a good idea for springs to have a lower hardness than blades. There are also three slightly different grades of 440 stainless - 440A, 440B and 440C. The C grade is the most commonly used grade for cutting implements.

I might add that 440 stainless steel is unweldable by almost any common welding technique.
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
Back when I was heat treating steels pretty regularly, most of the time I sent out 440C because my oven had trouble getting past 1900*F and critical temp for 440C is (IIRC) 1950*. If I flame hardened, I had to do it in the afternoon as I had a lot of windows that faced East and the room was too bright in the mornings to get a good reading on color.
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
There is so much misunderstanding and in some cases misinformation about hardening, tempering and annealing, not to mention misuse of the terms, posts like Keith's are excellent to help those looking to learn cut thru the internet BS and get the facts. His post should probably be made a sticky or whatever they call them here and closed from further comment.

I think another good subject would be springs. Shooting old guns sometimes reveals a flat spring that has lost its zest. It is relatively simple to run it thru the hardening and tempering process again and return it to its former qualities. I have to admit that I'm curious why flat springs lose their strength. My guess would be they were left cocked for many years.

Thanks for posting this, Keith.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
There is so much misunderstanding and in some cases misinformation about hardening, tempering and annealing, not to mention misuse of the terms, posts like Keith's are excellent to help those looking to learn cut thru the internet BS and get the facts. His post should probably be made a sticky or whatever they call them here and closed from further comment.

I think another good subject would be springs. Shooting old guns sometimes reveals a flat spring that has lost its zest. It is relatively simple to run it thru the hardening and tempering process again and return it to its former qualities. I have to admit that I'm curious why flat springs lose their strength. My guess would be they were left cocked for many years.

Thanks for posting this, Keith.

It is a sticky, that's why it stays at the top of forum list. Thread not locked from further comments, would miss out on interesting comments and questions.
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
...

I think another good subject would be springs...

The president of a small company I worked for for ten years was an old-school engineer, graduate of General Motors Institute, and springs was his thing.

There was a question one day regarding the coil springs I chose for maintaining tension on the head-shaft of a large conveyor. Nothing was actually wrong and the springs in question were just fine for the application, but someone had to make a dumb comment (to sound intelligent and interested) about springs - and it wasn't ME. I knew better.

He drug me into his office and lectured me for an hour and a half on springs and how they worked - had examples in a desk drawer for the sake of demonstration. He was a good guy, so I sat there patiently and listened, but never once came upon a need for the knowledge and it has completely escaped me thirty years later.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I made quite a few coil springs and flat springs over the years. I tried to use the color charts provided in various books, but I never had a lot of really good springs at the end. Most were too hard, I think, and broke soon. I always put it down to not enough trial and error, eg- experience!
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
TOOL STEEL GRADES
Defining Property
Tool Steel Grade
Significant Characteristic
Water Hardening​
W​
Cold Working​
O​
Oil Hardening​
A​
Air Hardening, medium alloy​
D​
High carbon, high chromium​
Shock Resisting​
S​
High Speed​
T​
Tungsten base​
M​
Molybdenum base​
Hot Working​
H​
H1-H19 chromium base​
H20-H39 tungsten base​
H40-H59 molybdenum base​
Mold Steel​
P​
 

Ian

Notorious member
I recently reworked a cast steel, flat flintlock frizzen spring. The spring needed to be spread slightly to put it in the operating range of the frizzen toe and the top leaf needed to be arched slightly to alter the cam-over point of the frizzen. I annealed with an OA torch adjusted to a slightly carburizing flame, heated full orange, checked with a magnet, and dunked in a bucket of powdered lime. After a few hours I heated and reshaped the spring and allowed it to air cool. Then I filed and polished every dent, ding, scratch, and pit out of the leaves and bend of the spring, heated again to full orange until a magnet wouldn't stick, and swished in a can of water. After that I polished the spring again and submerged it in my pot of nearly pure lead (615 degrees F) and held the spring under the surface until it became a deep purple. Probably should have used wheelweight metal at 575F so it would stop at dark blue after a good soak but when drawing a spring of unknown material I like to err on the side of caution because I can reharden/temper a lot more easily than I can weld a broken one back together.

I've used some variation of this basic technique many times over the years for flat springs. I may be superstitious but feel that a FULL anneal to begin with is important, even if hot-working the spring to a different shape. Taking an already spring-tempered piece of metal and heating/shaping only the part needed and then trying to harden and draw it afterward has resulted in breakage for me more than once. Since I started doing the full anneal first, no breakages (knock on wood!).

I'm going to make a patch cutting knife for my flintlock fowler piece soon, using a cutout of a hide shaving circular blade (think meat saw with a rolled edge) and am pondering how exactly to treat the blade. The edge will need to be hardened and drawn, but the rest of the blade shoudl be fine as-is. I'm thinking of heating just the edge to a full anneal and oil quenching it, then polishing and tempering the whole thing in an oven to a dark straw color.
 
Last edited:

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
I cannot speak to modern versions, but the version I got as an apprentice and my uncle's copy from the 30's of Machinery's Handbook both have a lot of good info on heat treating metals.I would recommend anyone who works on their guns own a copy.
 

Ian

Notorious member
A soup can with lid, packed full of crushed Kingsford and a hot, cedar fire has worked for me before. I use a pottery kiln now. No need to quench like in color casing, just heat and harden after the fire burns out.

There's a product called "Cherry Red" that is supposed to work like Kasenit, but it doesn't have the arsenic or whatever else in it that made Kasinit so good. I haven't tried Cherry Red but have seen utoob demonstrations of it and it seems to actually do the trick for a light case.