hmm.
- Thread starter fiver
- Start date
JonB
Halcyon member
Many years ago, in a box of stuff from an auction or something, I got a few stones and a old bottle of stone oil for the stones, I think this bottle of stone oil had an ingredient list that just said mineral oil.
I suppose this isn't a knife lube, eh?
When it comes to folders and other things like that, I use Microil (a kano labs product).
I suppose this isn't a knife lube, eh?
When it comes to folders and other things like that, I use Microil (a kano labs product).
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
You are suppose to put oil on your knives? I can see on a folder, but the blade? Always just wiped it off on my pant leg.
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
I have a few that will tarnish. I use Eezox same as I do for my guns.
CW
CW
smokeywolf
Well-Known Member
I use the same stuff on knives as I use on my straight razors; MAAS for polish and mineral oil for a lube and protectant.
Diesel, kerosene, any oil goes on the stone for me to float the grind away. Spit works, but I hate to waste my precious bodily fluids.I do try and oil my knives that see outdoor use.
For sharpening, I use the cheap, WM Tech 2000 "Spray Lube," which for all I can tell is 1K in a spray can, maybe some mineral spirits? I don't use it or trust it as a lube or rust preventive. Inexpensive, floats the particles well, handy, drips off the stones and does not get sticky over time.
On diamond plates - water, or dry and then cleaned up with water, Dawn and a stiff nylon brush.
For me, "sharpening" runs the gamut from a 1" x 30" HF belt grinder to wet/dry abrasive paper, some actual stones and diamond plates, with strops to polish off the edge.
Oh, it does do well in bores too. I smell a sharpening thread coming... Maybe should have saved this.
Back to "knife lube" - the main reason for the Bore Butter is to protect the fine edge and polished bevels from oxidation. Maybe a bit anal, but my woodworking habits are hard to ignore when I work on a knife's edge.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
The topic of knife lubrication breaks down into three categories in my world:
1. lubricating folding knives
2. oil for sharpening stones
3. protection from rust
Folders get a tiny drop of Clenzoil on pivots and sliding surfaces. I have a couple of oilers with a needle point that work great for that.
Sharpening Stones get some light oil and I’m not really particular about that.
Rust prevention is a mixed bag. Stainless doesn’t need much but a little car wax once a year or so does help keep working knives clean. Knives used around food are just wiped down dry.
Carbon steel is a different ballgame. Ballistol is by far the most useful. But for some utility type blade that lives in a toolbox or truck console – whatever oil or grease is handy.
The idea of “Bore Butter” for carbon steel blades and wooden handles is a good one.
My grandfather used Linseed Oil on just about any tool with a wooden handle. And that meant the steel parts got linseed oil too.
If I had to pick one oil – it would likely be Ballistol.
1. lubricating folding knives
2. oil for sharpening stones
3. protection from rust
Folders get a tiny drop of Clenzoil on pivots and sliding surfaces. I have a couple of oilers with a needle point that work great for that.
Sharpening Stones get some light oil and I’m not really particular about that.
Rust prevention is a mixed bag. Stainless doesn’t need much but a little car wax once a year or so does help keep working knives clean. Knives used around food are just wiped down dry.
Carbon steel is a different ballgame. Ballistol is by far the most useful. But for some utility type blade that lives in a toolbox or truck console – whatever oil or grease is handy.
The idea of “Bore Butter” for carbon steel blades and wooden handles is a good one.
My grandfather used Linseed Oil on just about any tool with a wooden handle. And that meant the steel parts got linseed oil too.
If I had to pick one oil – it would likely be Ballistol.
Missionary
Well-Known Member
Whatever "lube" is handy when the folder seems slugish.
RBHarter
West Central AR
I'm a dinosaur........
Never worried much about discoloration of a blade the nominal animal fats seem to be doing the job for rust prevention.
Light machine oil , "Singer oil" , has sufficed for a half a century with a "clean" spray solvent/oil like WD to wash the oil stones occasionally.
Never worried much about discoloration of a blade the nominal animal fats seem to be doing the job for rust prevention.
Light machine oil , "Singer oil" , has sufficed for a half a century with a "clean" spray solvent/oil like WD to wash the oil stones occasionally.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
Ah, "Singer Oil", there's a flashback.
3 in 1 was the cheap version that was always around but you could get "Singer Oil". I remember sewing machine oil was not to be touched by children (least you spill it or waste it)
3 in 1 was the cheap version that was always around but you could get "Singer Oil". I remember sewing machine oil was not to be touched by children (least you spill it or waste it)
smokeywolf
Well-Known Member
About half my stones are water stones, so don't have to worry about oil. My finishing stone is a black hard Arkansas; that gets mineral oil. Keep a good sized bottle of mineral oil in the kitchen because it also gets used on the cutting boards and butcher block.
smokeywolf
Well-Known Member
StrawHat should be in on this conversation. He's a professional knife and etc. sharpener.
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
I used to eat allot of apples... Id use the "good" knife to cut pieces and eat them off the knife. By the end of the summer that knife was badly stained and I could not clean it. I ended up bluing the blade to hide the blotchy appearance. It was a Marbles knife.
CW
CW