Hot plate use...

Cherokee

Medina, Ohio
Been using a cheap hotplate to pre-heat my molds for 30+ years. Didn't make a cover, just set the mold square on the plate and by the time the pot is ready, the mold is too.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
No way I'll cast in the garage till temp is > 40F. Hot plate for pre-heating mold and cooking PC. Today's low humidity ~20% good day to tumble PC, inside!
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Wallmart has three.. a fancy 26$ dual burner. A "cheap" dual burner at 18$ and a single burner at 12$ Its a coil style.
Knee didnt allow for the walk in Lowes for the bricks... That will have ta be another day.

CW
 

Jeff H

NW Ohio
I use a hot plate - cheap, WM single-"burner," solid top with no "oven-cover" even in low twenties in the garage, which is when I get to cast - too cold to do anything else.

I use cheap multi-meter with an uncalibrated k-type thermocouple a famous aerospace company threw away after ONE TEST. The temp is relative, so intrinsic accuracy is moot. If my cheap multi-meter reads just shy of 400 F, the mould is the right temp.

Thing is, I get interrupted a LOT and have to find ways to make everything I do work with the interruptions. My typical casting day is on "laundry day," when I can't get "too" dirty (working) between loads - so I don't get clean clothes dirty while handling them, so I am already limited in what I can do that day. Combine that with a miserably cold, and/or wet day, THAT'S a "casting day."

Between loads, I can set the moulds on the hot plate and fold/hang what's in the dryer, move the clothes from the washer to the dryer and reload the washer..... ten minute's-worth, before going back to the bench, grabbing a pre-heated mould and start right where I left off. Another benefit to the hot plate - PEE BREAKS! When I was younger and dumber, it seemed like right when everything was casting well - Mother Nature called. Now, I just stick the moulds on the hot plate and answer the call of nature.
 

quicksylver

Well-Known Member
Hot plate for 30 + years, spureplate down , block of wood under handles, got the dial where I want it , plug and unplug as needed, great place to keep the mold if i need a breather or when I am adding alloy/ fluxing
 

Matt

Active Member
Best $3 investment I’ve made was a thrift store Montgomery Wards double burner hot plate. It has solid burner tops which work better than coils unless you have a steel plate to cover the coils. I’ve never found the need for a hood or cover, but will try it. Generally by the time my melt is ready the mold (plate set on medium) is perfect and the first cast is useable. Small calibers with big blocks don’t always work out (that’s why I’m going to try a hood). Thermostats are not terribly accurate or reliable so watch your molds. I have once set a brand new NOE mold back on the hot plate with cavities full to try to get another mold to cast. When I got back to the NOE mold the sprue rolled off and the cavities were molten! Shocking but no harm was done, thankfully. But a hot plate makes casting better. I use the other burner on mine set on low to preheat ingots when I’m casting large multi cavity molds to help the melt heat at proper temp and cast with fewer delays.
 

Mitty38

Well-Known Member
I use a hot plate and a fodu pot to alloy or melt and put into ingot small amounts of lead.
Never used it to heat a mould yet. Shoot, I do not even have a thermometer.
Put the mould across the top upside down, then...
Just put the lee on 7 and cast till I get good looking bullets. Course everything I shoot has at least 2% tin.
 
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Winelover

North Central Arkansas
CW, what setting do you use for preheating moulds? Looks like its cranked up all the way, in the picture.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
CW, what setting do you use for preheating moulds? Looks like its cranked up all the way, in the picture.
My pots are old... seems as new I could run at lower temps but as the decades pass They get closer and closer to "full bore on". So 9/10 is where I generally run them. Down lower then "8" on the orange Lyman and the spigot "freezes".
CW
 

Joshua

Taco Aficionado/Salish Sea Pirate/Part-Time Dragon
I use the highest setting. Those presses are meant to toast a sandwich by direct contact, they don’t get overly hot.

I plug in my pot at the same time as the press, everything thing is good by the time the lead is melted.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
JonB's set up is near exact to mine including saw blade! ( Maxwell House can)
Been using it for years Could not be with out it.
I even made steel fixtures to keep my HP pins hot If i Slow down or need to pause my casting
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Well, I got a couple 1/2 cinder blocks. And 8 pavers size of a brick. Should be able to come up with something! Another day that is.
CW
 

dale2242

Well-Known Member
I never saw a need for an oven type cover.
With the proper setting on the hot plate, my mould is the right temp when the alloy is up to temp.
When I take a break I set the empty mould back on the hot plate and it is ready to go when I am.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
8c H&G , MP brass HB/PB 462-420 , many NOE and Lee 5&6c and a lonely 25 cal 100 gr 4c Lyman are all hard to get hot and those under 30-150 are hard to keep hot . That little bitty 225-37 was the worst . But you gotta move with that H&G almost as fast as the aluminum moulds to keep it hot .
 

Dimner

Named Man
My little hot plate that could..... it's 1100 watts and I think I paid 16 bucks for it new. Like the little engine that could...it's making its way up to temp where I can Flux and make ingots.

20210223_004022.jpg
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Today I assembled my "garage"!!!

C3DC2303-052A-4176-8FAE-107EBB432571.jpeg

I was able to cast with that MP HP mold straight away. Not one single heat related cull!!!! NOT ONE!!!! SUPER PLEASED!!!

Its a bit harder to cast sitting now. But beautiful if ya can stand. I cannot for long so I need a lil learning curve. But Ill find a way!!

Now we just need more days like today!! Was quite warm!!

CW