How to store molds?
- Thread starter johnnyjr
- Start date
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
You’re going to get a thousand different answers but the key to prevent oxygen & water from reaching the surface.
For long term storage I put RIG on the mold while it is still warm (not super-hot) from casting. This ensures that there is no water condensed on the surface and helps to melt the grease and let it flow into all of the nooks and crannies. After the mold cools off and the grease becomes semi-solid, I put the mold in its box. This method has proven to be foolproof. An airtight container would be another level of protection if you wanted.
There are, of course, other methods and this is just one.
Steel ammo cans have a gasket and are good airtight containers, but you run the risk of condensation if the air trapped inside isn’t completely dry. I think wooden boxes with close fitting lids may be even better over many years as they moderate temperature swings and can breathe a little. Whatever container you choose, I would recommend as little extra air space inside as possible. Less air means less water vapor held by the air.
I would avoid cheap, light oils that can evaporate easily or gum up as they dry.
For long term storage I put RIG on the mold while it is still warm (not super-hot) from casting. This ensures that there is no water condensed on the surface and helps to melt the grease and let it flow into all of the nooks and crannies. After the mold cools off and the grease becomes semi-solid, I put the mold in its box. This method has proven to be foolproof. An airtight container would be another level of protection if you wanted.
There are, of course, other methods and this is just one.
Steel ammo cans have a gasket and are good airtight containers, but you run the risk of condensation if the air trapped inside isn’t completely dry. I think wooden boxes with close fitting lids may be even better over many years as they moderate temperature swings and can breathe a little. Whatever container you choose, I would recommend as little extra air space inside as possible. Less air means less water vapor held by the air.
I would avoid cheap, light oils that can evaporate easily or gum up as they dry.
Winelover
North Central Arkansas
Snapware airtight plastic boxes, with silicon gaskets and silica gel packs. Available in different sizes and 4 packs from Amazon. This size will store a 4 cavity mould. I use inner tube bands to keep the mould halves together. No need for any oil/rust preventive. Mould is immediately ready for use.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
And there is the factor of using the mold after storage.
Oil or grease on a mold must be removed before using the mold agian. This is an annoying process if you use the mold often.
BUT - for LONG TERM storage, the equation changes. If the mold will be stored for many months, years or decades - A little grease becomes a total non-issue. At that point the chore of de-greasing the mold before use becomes a happy chore that reveals a pristine, rust-free mold under that grease.
Oil or grease on a mold must be removed before using the mold agian. This is an annoying process if you use the mold often.
BUT - for LONG TERM storage, the equation changes. If the mold will be stored for many months, years or decades - A little grease becomes a total non-issue. At that point the chore of de-greasing the mold before use becomes a happy chore that reveals a pristine, rust-free mold under that grease.
oscarflytyer
Well-Known Member
you can get a cheap vacuum sealer on Amazon for ~$20-25. If I were storing long term and wanted the air gone, I would vacuum seal then put in tupperware containers.
I am currently storing mine in tupperware (not vacuum sealed) inside the house/controlled environment. No issues to date.
I am currently storing mine in tupperware (not vacuum sealed) inside the house/controlled environment. No issues to date.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
a good trick with an ammo can is to put a piece of oiled cardboard in the bottom and along the sides of the can.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
I'm lazy too and if I intend to use the molds in the near future, I will not apply grease.
However, I've had some bad experiences even in air conditioned and heated houses and I'm a bit gun shy when it comes to rust.
So, if it will be long term storage - it will be RIG applied to a warm mold and storage in a box. I'll gladly do the extra work to de-grease it later.
johnnyjr
Well-Known Member
What kind of oil do you use on the card board..
I live in a VERY humid climate.
I oil my iron molds with light oil, like Rem Oil.
They are left in the open on shelves, on handles or in their original boxes.
I have never had a mold rust this way.
Cleaning them whenever I want to cast is kind of a PITA but worth it to preserve my molds.
I've had some of my Lyman molds for 60 years.
I oil my iron molds with light oil, like Rem Oil.
They are left in the open on shelves, on handles or in their original boxes.
I have never had a mold rust this way.
Cleaning them whenever I want to cast is kind of a PITA but worth it to preserve my molds.
I've had some of my Lyman molds for 60 years.
JWFilips
Well-Known Member
I store my working moulds in my basement on shelves....some with handles some with not!
My basement is humidity controlled year round at 50 % This way I can cast with any one I want without any clean up work. No rust in 12 years.
But when I put the "not used" ones away...... I use a coating of "Fluid Film" (Smells really bad like a wet sheep) and Put them in Heavy duty ziplok bags with a small packet of Silica Gel.
My basement is humidity controlled year round at 50 % This way I can cast with any one I want without any clean up work. No rust in 12 years.
But when I put the "not used" ones away...... I use a coating of "Fluid Film" (Smells really bad like a wet sheep) and Put them in Heavy duty ziplok bags with a small packet of Silica Gel.
JonB
Halcyon member
I store my Iron molds in plastic food containers with gasket seal, just like Winelover posted, but I coat them with kroil. I've left a few molds stored that way for a few years and no rust. That was in a house.
.
But, if I were to do a long term storage thing, and didn't have the food containers, I wouldn't buy any. Also, if this is gonna be in a unheated shed or garage...this is what I'd do. I would would use a oil thicker than Kroil, Maybe a automotive engine oil or tranny fluid. Coat the mold and put each one in a good ziplock baggie (freezer grade) and squeeze as much air out as possible. I'd probably put all the baggied molds into a cardboard box, I don't think a ammo can is necessary unless you want to store them outside in the weather.
that's my 2¢
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But, if I were to do a long term storage thing, and didn't have the food containers, I wouldn't buy any. Also, if this is gonna be in a unheated shed or garage...this is what I'd do. I would would use a oil thicker than Kroil, Maybe a automotive engine oil or tranny fluid. Coat the mold and put each one in a good ziplock baggie (freezer grade) and squeeze as much air out as possible. I'd probably put all the baggied molds into a cardboard box, I don't think a ammo can is necessary unless you want to store them outside in the weather.
that's my 2¢
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
I use Mineral Oil for short term. Have not needed to long term store.But my casting mentor keeps his stored in 9x13 ish tupperware containers molds submerged in 90wt oil.
I have used his molds a hundred times. They come clean for use pretty easily but require good soap n water hot wash clean and a heat cycle. But never a lick of corrosion.
I like the idea/suggestion of mineral oil coat and vac seal and then in a 50cal metal can with oul soak Cardboard bottom n sides...
Right now, I use a roll around steel tool chest from Harbor freight. Tops area I have found a "snack container" tupperware like, that fits my Accurate/Arsenal/MP molds well with area for extra pins. In top.
Drawers are full of LEE then largest, two bottom drawers have two 12x14x4.5" double sided "tackle boxes" providing approx 12 2x2x2 partitioned spaces. In each drawer. Able to comfortably hold two, 2 cav Lyman or RCBS/Saeco/Lachmiller molds in each. Then in bottom, I have a couple
more larger but single side "tackle boxes" for the larger 4 cav Lyman molds molds.
All coated well in mineral oil. No problems in half doz years like that. Before that, I had molds in factory boxes wrapped in oil soaked t-shirts.
CW
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Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
Damn near anything on hand, but 10W-whatever motoroil would be fine.
The goal isn't to soak the carboard, just coat it a litte.
