I have various Uberti replicas imported by Taylor's, Stoeger, and Cimmaron which are actually quite good, at least as good as any Colt specimens I've seen. Cimmaron Arm's office is located in the house my wife's grandparents lived in for about 30 years and occasionally she bemoans that fact since they obliterated her childhood memories there.
I don't know what a "davidson" or "SSA" is so can't comment on that. What I can say is if it's made by Uberti, handle it first if possible and inspect the bore, but mostly you can be assured it is of good manufacturing quality and spare parts are widely available though probably will never be needed. I say handle first and inspect the bore because these guns must pass the national proof house in Italy before being exported and they are left dirty for months/years afterward and poorly handled in the proof house so the bores can be rusted, parts like barrel wedges adjusted with the nearest rock or prybar, and sundry other defects from rough handling and abuse. Cimmaron re-processes the imports and has a gunsmith on staff who remedies any of these mechanical and cosmetic defects....but still I see neglected bores in their Texas Jack's retail store. Taylor's are also re-fitted and are of good quality. Stoeger is straight from the proof house, cheaper, and a pig in a poke that most likely has gone without a final once-over by the US importer prior to sale.
My favorite is a Taylor's 1873 clone with a blued steel 1860 Army grip frame, something they put together special and I waited two years for after ordering. It fits my hand and also accepts the .45 ACP cylinder from a Taylor's convertible, truly the perfect SAA in my book. The 1872 Open Top .45 Colt is really nice as well. All my clones are upgraded with Wolf base pin spring kits and wire trigger/bolt springs and the springs tweaked to eliminate bolt peening of the cylinder locking notches and drag marks in the bluing (same thing you might want to do to a Colt if it is to be a shot much). A complete strip and clean is required to get the manufacturing fod and crust out, ensure all the screws are properly torqued, and to lubricate to prevent rust. After that you're good to go. I've shot the bejeebers out of a couple of these and have never worn out any parts or broken anything. HTH.