Lyman 410610 and casting technique to reduce GC shank

JonB

Halcyon member
Last week, I lucked into a big buy of 41 mag stuff.
All I wanted from this lot was the 500 pcs of brass and a RCBS seater die.
Well, besides the brass, there was a full set of RCBS dies with both carbide sizer and steel sizer. Also, there was several hundred 41 cal bullets, some jacketed, A good sized box of mixed Lyman GCs (45,41,357,22) about 1000 each, and this dang mold (Lyman 2 cav. 410610).

I shouldn't have even tried casting with it. I didn't really need it, I should have just sold it, because I did just get an awesome Arsenal 41 SWC mold.
Why is it, that a mold that I don't need just can't be left alone?
...especially a Lyman, I'm just not a big fan...but it did come with about 1k GC that should fit it.
Mold boolits GCs better 450px.jpg
The first batch I cast, looked kinda ugly. The GCs fit snug, real snug, in fact some of the bullets were a no go. I assumed some of the ugliness was due to the remnants of spray-on mold release in the cavities, that I was unable to clean out.

So I decided to Lee-Ment the mold, of course, the fact the mold wasn't dropping the bullets without a swift whack, helped my decision.
Leementing 450px.jpg

left block 400px.jpg

Right block 400px.jpg
FYI, if you notice this block has more area that shines, this block was the sticky block.
...

Now for the reason I made this long post, and the lesson that I learned these last few days (five different casting sessions using three different alloys). How to cast a bullet so the GC shank is not over sized (with a mold that was cut right at the edge of being oversized).

I tried a few things:
An alloy with a lower percentage of antimony than my usual COWW.
Casting with a hot alloy, and then lowering the temp.
Then casting at a fast pace, then a slow pace, leaving the bullets in the cavities as long as possible, then dropping them right away.

I knew hotter was the way to go, then I though of slowing the stream (reducing head pressure)....aaaaaaand, that was the ticket!
But to get good fillout, I needed to run the mold hotter than I usually do and I jacked up the alloy temp to 730º, I've never run alloy that hot.

So, I slowed the stream of molten alloy from my Lee bottom pour furnace into the mold as much as possible, but still maintain a steady stream and not a dripping stream (having the 20 lb pot only filled half way, helped with this). The three frosty bullets on the Right were cast that way and the old lyman GCs I got with this purchase fit perfectly. That alloy was COWW. The edges are surely not sharp as the other three bullets, but the frosty ones are uniform.
boolits closeup sharp edges and dull edges 450px.jpg
The three bullets on the left were from the first casting session with a range scrap alloy, temp set to 665º with a strong alloy stream into the mold, GCs were a no go with those three, as well as about half of the bullets from that batch. I would have measured the GC shanks, but they are tapered and I couldn't get reliable measurements.

Bullet diameter:
The interesting thing with this ...all the bullets that were cast after Lee-Menting, measured .413 whether I used the slow stream technique or not. I find it interesting that the slow stream technique reduced the size of the GC shank, but didn't reduce the band diameter, that I could measure, anyway?
 

JonB

Halcyon member
I never seen RCBS brass gas checks...well, I guess I have now, LOL.
I have a box of RCBS 45 rifle GC, they are copper, my best guess is that box is from the 80s.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
the old black and white boxes.
I have one or two still kicking around here.
the old Ideal slip on checks are the same color too, but taller on the side.

I'm using Gator checks on my 610 and have to tap them open before pressing them in place.
I have poured a smaller sprue to get a rounded edge on the base, and used a champhering tool to cut the corners on the shank.
but found the square bases shot better.

as a meh thing.
they shoot pretty good without a check on top of 4grs of titegroup.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Last fall when I was trying to work out the bugs in my Henry, I was given some RF samples from a MP mold, it was a GC design and they included some Gator thin 41 cal GCs. I still have a few. They are a no go on these bullets, even the ones I cast with less sharp edges. So They must be smaller than these RCBS GCs I have? If and when I run out of these RCBS checks, I suppose I'll have to figure out how to tap them open, eh?
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
yeah.
I ended up using one of those reversible bit screw drivers.
it just happened to be sitting on the bench and a little rounding of the edges on the mini grinder made it work pretty nice.
the time it takes tapping the checks open, then squishing them on, then lube-sizing gets tedious real quick.
I got 2 plain base molds that generally get used instead.
 

JustJim

Well-Known Member
I used to have an HP version of the 410610. Cast bullets of pure lead, then ran them at about 1,200 fps. They made a good hunting bullet, though I don't recall ever taking anything bigger than a whitetail with them.

You can always anneal the checks before expanding them. I just put them in a metal can (spice can, tea can--something with a lid) and float it on top of a pot of lead when I'm cleaning up a batch. Once annealed they expand easily, and are easier to size in place. The added bonus is that there is little spring-back of the check when sized.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
you can also put them in a pipe bomb with a little bit of paper.
the paper will burn off and keep the oxygen out.
that lets you lay the whole thing in your fire place, camp fire, or wood burning stove.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Annealing checks:
While I've heard of it before, I've never done it.
and this particular case, the bullet bases have flashing...I'd bet annealing wouldn't help the GC slide over that?
The casting hot thingy fixed both problems for this case.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Jon, how much weight variation are you seeing?
well, these were cast four years ago.
I looked at my notes and seen this...
<<
Preheat mold hotter than normal
First few drops 217gr .412"
midway through casting session 218gr .413"
end of casting session 218gr .413"
>>

When I take notes and write measurements for a batch, I usually use 3 or 4 samples and document average...I assume I did that here? But can't be 100% sure.

Now to complicate things, I did three batches with three different alloys.
#1 alloy was 9.75lbs of Auto Battery Terminal alloy with 1/4lb 60/40 solder added.
#2 alloy was 9.25lbs of alloy from DIY boat anchor from the 1960s, which I assume was COWW, with 1/4lb 60/40 solder added.
#3 alloy was a 50-50 blend of alloys #1 and #2


What seemed to work best, for a slow stream style pouring, was to start with about 10lbs of alloy in my 20lb pot (1/2 full), then cast until 1/4 full and quit, so each batch was fairly small...about 5lbs of bullets. After the first batch, I decided I wanted to switch alloys. After Batch #1 and #2 went well, I just figured, what the heck and blend what was leftover. The third batch went well also. So that should explain my madness.

Next factor, I sized (and installed GCs in 2020, two years after casting). I sized all three batches together...so they are all mixed up, which could lend to variations in weight. I still have all these on the shelf, I haven't loaded any yet.

I share all those details, as to give a better answer about weight variation.
Just now, I went to my shelf and grabbed 10 lubed/GC'd bullets at random and weighed them.

222.3
222.4
222.2
221.5
222.0
221.4
222.2
222.3
222.6
222.1

That sure seems better than expected, due to hot pour technique and my process chaos of using different alloys and not keeping them separate during sizing.
 
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fiver

Well-Known Member
you can always remove the shank.
and NOE does make a tool for flaring gas checks.
Brad come up with the idea and sent it to Al to copy.