M-Carbo CZ75B spring kit

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
I decided to bite the bullet so to speak and spend 25 bucks on the M-Carbo spring kit for my CZ 75B. It is supposed to make a dramatic difference in Trigger pull.

Holy crap are they right! After a good hour of frustration putting in the new springs the trigger pull is greatly reduced. Still lots of creep in the single action pull but much lighter.

Tha fully they have a good video on YouTube on installation. I have taken my CZ apart before and it isn’t for the feint of heart. Trigger spring is the hard one.
 

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
Years of traditional double-action autopistols have made me insensitive to the "crunchenticker" triggers on those sorts of pistols. My 75B is far from the worst I've run. Mine gets carried cocked & locked anyway. The trigger could be better, sure--but I'll just leave well enough alone.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
I can't speak to the CZ-75 because it's been a long time since I had one in my hands. But I can say that detail stripping some pistols is interesting.
For example, installing the trigger spring in a Beretta 92 can be very easy with the right tools and techniques. Or, it can be a frustrating experience if you lack the proper tools.

As for the "crunchentickers", I'm in the camp with Al on that one. I agreed with a lot of what Jeff Cooper wrote but I never shared his dislike of the DA/SA platform. I never found it to be a determent to good shooting.
 

Glaciers

Alaska Land of the Midnight Sun
I just bought the Wilson Combat "Duty spring kit" for my 92fs but have not installed it yet. They offer a competition kit with lighter springs but the Duty kit is supposed to make a marked improvement and be 100% reliable, where the comp kit can have some light primer strikes and can have some failure to fire if your ammo is questionable. I also bought a kit for my SP101 as well. The handguns are on the back burner till spring and rifles are getting what little time and daylight I can come up with.
 

david s

Well-Known Member
I have a CZ 75 B and it's a very nice pistol, haven't done anything to it except swap the grips and sights. On the "creep" thing, in single action mode my 75 cams the hammer back just a little bit during trigger pull. This would be what generates the creep in my trigger pull. I'm fairly new to the 75 platform and don't actually know much about them but if I ever take it apart down to that level it will get a good look at around the hammer and sear contact area/angles. My only other grip about the 75B is you don't just add an ambidextrous safety to them like you could with a 1911 and being a lefty that can be a deal breaker. Other than that the pistol has been dead bang reliable to a fault.
 

BBerguson

Official Pennsyltuckian
I bought a spring kit for my cz452 and was not disappointed. No creep, and very light, just under 1lb. I found the guy on the rimfire site, it’s a “YoDave” kit.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
I have a CZ 75 B and it's a very nice pistol, haven't done anything to it except swap the grips and sights. On the "creep" thing, in single action mode my 75 cams the hammer back just a little bit during trigger pull.
I've had a few guns over the years that exhibited that problem.
The fix is to correct the angle on the hammer where the sears interacts with it. This of course is not a repair for the unskilled or inattentive person. Take your time, do it right make sure it's SAFE.
A jig to duplicate the relationship between the hammer and sear outside of the gun is useful but not absolutely necessary. Remember, you can take metal off but it's REALLY hard to put metal back on. The good news is the worst case scenario is your destroy a hammer. The bad news is, .......you could destroy a hammer ;). So if it's gun that would be difficult to find a replacement hammer for, you may want to think about that before you start taking files and stones to things.
The goal is to get the "shelf" on the hammer square with the nose of the sear so that the sear doesn't cam the hammer back as it releases but to NOT cut the hammer to the point the hammer can "push off" the sear. I find a small file with a safe edge and a small rectangular stone to be the best tools. There's a lot of technique that I will not go into here, but in the end, safety is more important than anything else.
The last pistol I had to correct this issue on was a Star Super B. The hammer on that gun would noticeably rock back when the trigger was pulled. The trigger was atrocious before I fixed it. After some careful work, that pistol has an excellent trigger and is safe.

Good Luck
 

david s

Well-Known Member
I agree totally with your explanation Petrol & Powder. Having invested a young fortune in 1/2"X6" stones over the years I'm betting that one day the CZ 75B will get looked at, so far though the longer than normal single action pull is this pistols only fault and it's still a better a trigger than a stock Glock.
 

Petrol & Powder

Well-Known Member
It's been a long time since I've had a CZ-75 in my hands but they have always impressed me as being excellent pistols.
If you're looking for a high quality, full size, all steel, DA/SA pistol - the CZ-75 should be near the top of your list.
The full length internal guide rails on the frame contribute to the excellent accuracy of the pistols. The ergonomics of the grip are top notch for a double stack, full size pistol (reminds me of the Hi-Power) and the action is robust. Where the machining needs to be precise, they do a great job. Where it's not critical, they don't waste money.
When it comes to mechanical engineering and the production of mechanical devices, the Czechs really know what they're doing.