My Witches Brew...
- Thread starter chef50
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Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
OR............you could just buy NRA 50/50 from White Label at $13.27/pound or $2.85/per 1" stick.
I'm not saying your witch's brew is bad or ineffective, but probably for less money than you're spending on ingredients you could get something less labor intensive.
And they are GREAT people to deal with.
I'm not saying your witch's brew is bad or ineffective, but probably for less money than you're spending on ingredients you could get something less labor intensive.
Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce
Zen Cart! : - 1x4 lube sticks 2x6 Lube sticks 1# Blocks of lube Liquid/Tumble Cast Bullet Lube Ingredients-to brew your own Extreme Skin Care Products Free Samples Sprue Plate Lube Black Powder Lube ecommerce, open source, shop, online shopping, store
lsstuff.com
And they are GREAT people to deal with.
Reloader762
Active Member
I can second White Label Lubes, great and humble man to deal with that has great products. I keep about a dozen sticks of his 2500+ lube around for the lube a sizer and it's been excellent lube in both rifles and pistols.
Nothing wrong with making your own lube, knowledge of such things in this day and age are a bonus.
Nothing wrong with making your own lube, knowledge of such things in this day and age are a bonus.
richhodg66
Well-Known Member
I don't know for sure, but have always been told to sty away from petroleum products for black powder due to the mess it will make, not sure how true that is but I have heeded that advice.
Plus 1 on both the BRA formula and White Labek, a guy just can't go too far wrong.
Plus 1 on both the BRA formula and White Labek, a guy just can't go too far wrong.
Josh
Well-Known Member
I was a huge fan of the Carnuba Red for summer time shooting, but would have to switch to something else for hunting season. I settled on Lamar's Simple Lube that's the brainchild of @runfiverun for all my grease groove shooting. It's simple, effective and cheap. It also doesn't have much temp sensitivity. If White Label kept LSL as an option, I would just buy from them.
I always suggest people make their own lube at some point in their casting career, it let's you start down the path of "this works, but why". I've officially graduated to PC for most of my needs, only because it is the best "lube" for temp stability. I'll still use grease for bullets with a tight static fit in the throat, but everything else is PC.
All that just to say: enjoy making lube, I hope you shoot enough that you're making your second batch in a month!
I always suggest people make their own lube at some point in their casting career, it let's you start down the path of "this works, but why". I've officially graduated to PC for most of my needs, only because it is the best "lube" for temp stability. I'll still use grease for bullets with a tight static fit in the throat, but everything else is PC.
All that just to say: enjoy making lube, I hope you shoot enough that you're making your second batch in a month!
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
In the handgun arena, I keep a little BAC on hand for higher velocity stuff but I rarely use it.
NRA 50/50 works for just about anything handgun that's non-magnum.
NRA 50/50 works for just about anything handgun that's non-magnum.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
It really is top notch stuff and they are good people. I'm happy to support them.
I tried to use BAC for a universal bullet lube for handgun loads but I got some leading at lower velocities/pressures (where most of my target loads run).
So, rather than fight and try to "Push a rope", I decided to "pull the rope" (which works much better
)
I use NRA 50/50 most of the time and only switch over to BAC when the loads demand it.
I tried to use BAC for a universal bullet lube for handgun loads but I got some leading at lower velocities/pressures (where most of my target loads run).
So, rather than fight and try to "Push a rope", I decided to "pull the rope" (which works much better
)I use NRA 50/50 most of the time and only switch over to BAC when the loads demand it.
Tomme boy
Well-Known Member
DON"T use any of these lubes that everyone is suggesting. Unless you want to put dried Asphalt in your barrel. your lube should work fine. But \using animal fat the lube can go bad over time. I would leave out the alox if you make more. And add a oil like olive to adjust the thickness as needed.
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
Don't use any of WHAT lubes "everyone" is suggesting?
Are you saying NRA 50/50 for 38 Special is wrong ????
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Winelover
North Central Arkansas
Haven't had to clean a barrel..............in like forever.
RBHarter
West Central AR
Darrs mine
1# Vaseline. 14 oz
1# Paraffin. 18 oz
2 Tblsp STP 3
Has been excellent for me for 15 yr I just put the last of my second 2nd # into the lube sizer . Never had it harden up , did fight melt out and migrate early on .
Only trouble I've had with it is most of my bullets just don't hold enough for more than 22.5" of barrel .
1# Vaseline. 14 oz
1# Paraffin. 18 oz
2 Tblsp STP 3
Has been excellent for me for 15 yr I just put the last of my second 2nd # into the lube sizer . Never had it harden up , did fight melt out and migrate early on .
Only trouble I've had with it is most of my bullets just don't hold enough for more than 22.5" of barrel .
Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
Just to be clear, the OP was referring to 38 Special.
Tomme boy
Well-Known Member
Don't use any of WHAT lubes "everyone" is suggesting?
Are you saying NRA 50/50 for 38 Special is wrong ????
For his black powder. Forgot to add that
Mitty38
Well-Known Member
Yawn....38 special.. LOL.
Pretty forgiving, roll your own round. Where I got started.
What I would recommend, every new loader- or caster start out with. 38 special brass, and a 357 revolver.
If casting, a lee, Lyman, reding, whatever, mould. Kieth semi wadcutter, TC or wadcutter Any lead harder then 9bh, softer then 14 bh.
For black powder...
With whatever lube you can get your hands on if using lead. Hard to mess up too bad with that.
As they say,6 of one half dozen of the other, don't matter much.
I have aloxed, pan lubed, used NRA 50/50 powder coated, an used bll, with pretty much the same results. Heck I even used straight lanolin once.
However pan lube and Alox do leave some residue on the outside of the gun.Plus they can be smokey in a poorly ventilated environment. Of course Black powder you have that anyway.
However, when I pan lube my 38 special, Black powder or modern smokeless cartridges, it's the paraffin, Vaseline, STP mix Now just because I made like 10 lbs of the stuff a while back for about 5 bucks.
Pretty forgiving, roll your own round. Where I got started.
What I would recommend, every new loader- or caster start out with. 38 special brass, and a 357 revolver.
If casting, a lee, Lyman, reding, whatever, mould. Kieth semi wadcutter, TC or wadcutter Any lead harder then 9bh, softer then 14 bh.
For black powder...
With whatever lube you can get your hands on if using lead. Hard to mess up too bad with that.
As they say,6 of one half dozen of the other, don't matter much.
I have aloxed, pan lubed, used NRA 50/50 powder coated, an used bll, with pretty much the same results. Heck I even used straight lanolin once.
However pan lube and Alox do leave some residue on the outside of the gun.Plus they can be smokey in a poorly ventilated environment. Of course Black powder you have that anyway.
However, when I pan lube my 38 special, Black powder or modern smokeless cartridges, it's the paraffin, Vaseline, STP mix Now just because I made like 10 lbs of the stuff a while back for about 5 bucks.
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Petrol & Powder
Well-Known Member
Ah, Now I'm tracking.
Thank You
