Need a tap .......

RBHarter

RBHarter

West Central AR
I thought about dropping this in B/S/T but buying one for 10 minutes or less ....

So what I have is an Axis I pulled down for the barrel . It was full of fillings and now the replacement barrel will only go in about about 5-6 threads before it gets wedged pretty tight at about the D&T for mounts . So I need a tap to chase maybe clean up the threads . It's a 1.055x20 . A 1x20 or 1-1/6 x 20 is $50-55 this tap is 114 -118 and it's 35 by the time it's shipped both ways to rent it . I have a barrel I could lop off and make a chaser from but I'd rather not .

If someone has such a beast that might be begged or borrowed or might be willing to turn a chaser I'd be indebted to you .
 
RBHarter

RBHarter

West Central AR
Worked it some with a pick an a jewelers file ......

Elsewhere an adjustable chase was suggested to be a thing .
 
smokeywolf

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
I like Ian's suggestion of using a 20 thread tap to "scrape out the threads", but instead of using a 1/4-20 NC tap, I think I'd try a 1/2-20 NF tap. Might offer a little better grip.
 
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Tomme boy

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
That is cast iron media they use to blast off the scale after heat treat that did this. They don't clean the receivers afterwards. I figured this out a few years back. Now the savage guys believe what I told them. Look up a wheelabrator. We had 2 of these at the forging factory I worked at. Both were over 3 stories tall. Very dirty to work on with all the carbon scale.

Be careful with the tap. The shot is very hard.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
They shot peen the barreled actions with about #12 steel shot. It's super fun to get the smooth nuts loose with all the shot wedged up under the nut. I imagine some could work its way into the threads at some point. Thread files only work on "A" threads.
 
fiver

fiver

Well-Known Member
well, this seems like a mickey mouse way for a factory to get things done.
does a wash and cleanup re-tap really cost that much before jamming a barrel in there?
 
RBHarter

RBHarter

West Central AR
The Stevens 200 and two 110s I've messed with weren't anything like this .
I did see a post somewhere else about this very thing , don't have the new barrel for the 200 yet anyway so it's not a huge deal at this point .
 
RBHarter

RBHarter

West Central AR
Class threads .
I don't remember them now but a thread is called out by dia , pitch , shape and then class comes in to define top and bottom width , depth and slope angle of both male and female . Some classes won't screw together , some have to be lubed , and some are so sloppy you wonder why they stay together . Mix classes for particular fit needs . One example might be a threaded cast iron engine block with an aluminum head and titanium head bolts . You have a SAE thread in the block and a class thread on the bolt with wide lands and a round top and bottom to compensate for the tinsel draw as the head swells and the block opens . The titanium bolt gets bigger around and longer faster than the block but slower than the head . The end result is that the tinsel load stays the same at reduced torque and doesn't unscrew because of the long bearing surface on both sides of the thread .
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
They shot peen and nitride-black the action, barrel, recoil lug, and barrel nut together after it's been assembled and headspaced. That saves having to shield or plug threads.
Tomme boy said:
@Ian please explain. I have used them on everything I have run into.
Click to expand...

Not on A (internal) threads you haven't. B (external) threads for sure, all day long. Thread file won't clean barrel threads inside a receiver.
 
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