Need a tap .......

RBHarter

RBHarter

West Central AR
I thought about dropping this in B/S/T but buying one for 10 minutes or less ....

So what I have is an Axis I pulled down for the barrel . It was full of fillings and now the replacement barrel will only go in about about 5-6 threads before it gets wedged pretty tight at about the D&T for mounts . So I need a tap to chase maybe clean up the threads . It's a 1.055x20 . A 1x20 or 1-1/6 x 20 is $50-55 this tap is 114 -118 and it's 35 by the time it's shipped both ways to rent it . I have a barrel I could lop off and make a chaser from but I'd rather not .

If someone has such a beast that might be begged or borrowed or might be willing to turn a chaser I'd be indebted to you .
 
Worked it some with a pick an a jewelers file ......

Elsewhere an adjustable chase was suggested to be a thing .
 
I like Ian's suggestion of using a 20 thread tap to "scrape out the threads", but instead of using a 1/4-20 NC tap, I think I'd try a 1/2-20 NF tap. Might offer a little better grip.
 
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That is cast iron media they use to blast off the scale after heat treat that did this. They don't clean the receivers afterwards. I figured this out a few years back. Now the savage guys believe what I told them. Look up a wheelabrator. We had 2 of these at the forging factory I worked at. Both were over 3 stories tall. Very dirty to work on with all the carbon scale.

Be careful with the tap. The shot is very hard.
 
They shot peen the barreled actions with about #12 steel shot. It's super fun to get the smooth nuts loose with all the shot wedged up under the nut. I imagine some could work its way into the threads at some point. Thread files only work on "A" threads.
 
well, this seems like a mickey mouse way for a factory to get things done.
does a wash and cleanup re-tap really cost that much before jamming a barrel in there?
 
The Stevens 200 and two 110s I've messed with weren't anything like this .
I did see a post somewhere else about this very thing , don't have the new barrel for the 200 yet anyway so it's not a huge deal at this point .
 
Class threads .
I don't remember them now but a thread is called out by dia , pitch , shape and then class comes in to define top and bottom width , depth and slope angle of both male and female . Some classes won't screw together , some have to be lubed , and some are so sloppy you wonder why they stay together . Mix classes for particular fit needs . One example might be a threaded cast iron engine block with an aluminum head and titanium head bolts . You have a SAE thread in the block and a class thread on the bolt with wide lands and a round top and bottom to compensate for the tinsel draw as the head swells and the block opens . The titanium bolt gets bigger around and longer faster than the block but slower than the head . The end result is that the tinsel load stays the same at reduced torque and doesn't unscrew because of the long bearing surface on both sides of the thread .
 
They shot peen and nitride-black the action, barrel, recoil lug, and barrel nut together after it's been assembled and headspaced. That saves having to shield or plug threads.
Tomme boy said:
@Ian please explain. I have used them on everything I have run into.
Click to expand...

Not on A (internal) threads you haven't. B (external) threads for sure, all day long. Thread file won't clean barrel threads inside a receiver.
 
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