thanks when I get it I may try brass screw deal (is free) and if no joy just rent the 4D tool so i need to have idea of bore I will get a few sizes to be sure or Ill ask them whats common.Just looked up the measurements on my Taurus. Brass rod fits bore at .347, with .356 lands to lands.
do not know if that helps.
I never ordered a guide rod and cutter, I always just ran a file across the end, then used a brass screw and valve grinding compound in a drill, followed by Flitz.
My first question would be, "Is the ding hurting anything?"what size pilot? yeah i know slug the bore but have NO good mic's.
SAMMI says bore from .346 to? should I get a .345, .350 and a .355 pilot?
4D rentals. Just want to clean up real small ding maybe just should do the old brass screw in drill deal?
Bruce
did not shoot yet but it bugs me thats reason enought to do something about in my mind.My first question would be, "Is the ding hurting anything?"
did not shoot yet but it bugs me thats reason enought to do something about in my mind.
Maybe just brass screw it and polish and re touch with cold blue can always rent tool if needed.
I do not shoot pistol as well as I used to bad eyes but like a new car I look at the ding as the first thing I see.
yeah thats how I do it thanksSince I can't see it, I won't suggest a solution to your specific gun, but will share that the brass screw (round-head) and abrasive compound will do a nice job - at least it has for me - cleaning up the crown very nicely and precisely.
I use 320 grit because it's what I have, still leaves a nice sheen on that small, circular sliver of exposed metal. I've only gone as far as to JUST get into the terminus of the grooves, so very, very little bare metal shows and isn't worth messing with cold-bluing. I've never tried to clean up a whole muzzle for aesthetics' sake.
If you've lapped before, my apologies for being redundant, but don't press too hard on the screw. Just enough pressure to keep it evenly in contact along the entire circumference as you turn it. I use a cordless drill-motor on "low," and slowly "wobble" the drill/screw continually. I push a patch to the muzzle from the breech to keep compound from migrating into the bore and push it out and then push a wet patch out from breech to muzzle to clean before inspection. It doesn't take long, even if you repeat the patch process five or six times, going slow and being careful.
Thats Ian I was thinking of the expanding things where you lock it take out and messure either way I have no accuarte tools just a crappy dial caliper.Pin gauges are marked for size, no mic necessary. If you get a set, get the .0002" minus set.
Those are called "ball gauges" or "small hole gauges".
If you shop the 'Zon online you can pick up an Anytime Tools brand 0-1" micrometer for about $20 and they are excellent quality. 5-piece ball gauge set is less than that but tough to get accurate measurement on 5-spline hole.
I have had a Miller's Falls "breast drill for well over 65 years and still use it along with a brace and a whole bunch of bits.Cordless, or at least variable speed drills! What a Godsend. When I was helping Dad in the gun shop we used the brass ball method, but since our only drill was a single speed Craftsman at that time, it was the old reliable Millers Falls egg beater drill! I still have that tool and it still works great! The first "cordless drill"!
OT, I know, sorry!