NOE HP Molds are PITA!!!

5

5shot

Active Member
Nothing against NOE...I love all my NOE molds, but damn I hate casting an HP. If the pins, melt and mold aren't the perfect temp, there is no way that pin will release that sucker! I don't mind a converted type, as you pull the pin out manually, and don't end up with stuck casting. After I cast a few dozen, then switched over to a different mold and I had tripled my output in a quarter of the time. Pre-heated the mold and they were just falling out from the first pour. The second mold was also brass, which is what I prefer, but I have no doubt that when I swap the HP pins out for the FP pins I will be much happier. This wasn't my first time with this mold either...I just waited so long to cast it again that I forgot how aggrivating it was :headbang:
 
Pretty much the same with all/any hollow point spud. Key is to keep the spud hot, a too cool HP spud will hang onto a bullet like it's riveted on. Try playing a propane torch on the spuds to get extra heat in them but don't get carried away with that, just add some heat. To quote Glen Fryxell - A hot hollow point spud is a happy hollow point spud. Try some extra heat with that mold and see if your not happier with it.
 
I did heat the pins, but I couldn't get them to drop consistently. Maybe it had something to do with it being 12 degrees and an Aluminum mold.
 
Big question, what bullet design and caliber?
I have a 313640 4 cav with HP pins and with bottom pour it was impossible to get good nose fill out and damn near impossible to keep the pins hot enough to drop bullets easily. Using a ladle increased heat transfer and made it a usable mould.

It isn’t just getting the pins hot, it is keeping them hot. You need heat transfer.
 
5shot said:
I did heat the pins, but I couldn't get them to drop consistently. Maybe it had something to do with it being 12 degrees and an Aluminum mold.
Click to expand...

Well . . . . Yeah, maybe huh. Try it when it's just a tad warmer. I think you had a definite lack of degrees and still add some extra heat to the pins.
 
sometimes it's the shape of the pin too.

but I bet the aluminum, having a H.P. and 12-F temps didn't make things any easier.
 
It is the 36-310 Thumper (although it has a different name now...why did all the NOE mold numbers change anyway?). The pins are the deep ones, so worst case. It shoots great in my Whelen, but there probably is no real need for the HP anyway.
 
Hell, I can't keep ANY mould hot enough to cast well at 12 degrees! Kudos for trying though.

I personally don't care for the RG style hp pin and they often need a little polishing on the points and definitely some adjusting and deburring of the slots to work their best.
 
My experience mirrors Ians. I put the pins in a cordless drill and polish them with fine steel wool. I keep the bottom of the pins lubed with 2 cycle oil also. I cast in those temps if I need to, but keep them running pretty fast.
 
Hmmm. My MP HP molds and Lyman molds converted by Eric at Hollowpoint Mold Services
are easy to cast with. I have to get the pins up to temp, but once that is done, cut the sprue with
my gloved hand, flip the mold upside down, open and lift up. Two bullets sitting there on their
bases. Close mold, flip back , close sprue plate and refill.

Have not tried the NOE type of HP molds, slightly different design of HP pin support than
the ones I have used - all sliding internal pins. The single cav Lyman HP molds are sometimes a
pain, but if you have a propane torch idling low flame nearby and wave the HP pin tip in
the flame for a couple of seconds before reinserting it into the mold, I get good results
on those (much slower) molds, too.

Polished, smooth HP pins, a touch of Bull Plate Lube on the tip with a barely dampened
Q-tip sometimes helps them to release, too.

Holy Cow....outside in 12F casting? I wouldn't even attempt that from a personal standpoint,
and I would bet that keeping a mold warm would be almost impossible.

Just remembered, I have also cast with a Lee HB mold, which I think may be similar in design
to the NOE HP molds, but not sure. The Lee mold, with pure lead, worked great and the
405 HB bullets shot well in their intended .45-70 Trapdoor Springfield.

Bill
 
Last edited:
Well, up here in the North, it is either 12F or nothing. The brass mold is a bit easier to deal with, as it holds a lot of heat. I'll put off casting the HPs for a few more weeks.
 
5shot..... just a suggestion. Have you tried using Kroil on the pins. I have that very mold but with the shallow hp and it casts rounds like a dream, and shoot lights out, so I know why you want to continue with it. I want to see what that pencil long bullet will do with a bull elk or moose this fall.
 
I cast indoors in my heated shop. Lightly polishing the top portion of the pins with 360 grit
wet or dry and then a very light coat of BullPlate Lube (MP mold lube works well, too)
from a barely dampened Q-tip should help them to release.

Bill
 
Last edited:
I don’t have any NOE hp moulds. But on the MP mould sight he suggests rubbing the pins with number 2 pencil lead(graphite). I have not had to do this but it might be worth a try.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ian
I tried that and it worked, but in a different way because rubbing the pencil on the NOE pins helped me find the burrs.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.