Use pure lead to keep from sticking. Set your pot temperature at no higher than 650, where the lead is just above molten. The surface tension is extremely high and the lead tends not to stick to anything. If there's soot on the case necks and shoulders, you're fine. I only perform a light "draw" with this method, not a full anneal at the lead temperature. Use the Vice-Grip method to see how much spring a 1 second dip vs. 2, 3, and so on takes out of the neck. When I get it where I want it, it's extremely repeatable and FAST. Dunk, count, throw in the quench bucket to halt the heat migration. Do three or four cases at a time, no problem. Uniform all the way around, no way to screw up the temperature if you dunk to the same depth and count the same each time.
Lead Pot uses a method I've been meaning to try: He fills a small dipper-casting furnace with fine sand and heats it to the desired temperature for dipping his case necks. That's probably the best solution anyone has come up with yet for speed, consistency, accuracy, and fool-proof annealing and drawing.
The Vise-Grip and micrometer method is by far the easiest way I've found to precisely test state of neck anneal.