Not bad for a torch and a drill
- Thread starter waco
- Start date
fiver
Well-Known Member
looks about right on the blue length.
give one a pinch between your fingers on the case mouth you should be able to flatten them just a bit.
I usually anneal mine then run them into the neck sizer twice [two strokes same setting] to bring the hardening up just a little bit and to even things up a titch.
you can feel the difference between a softer [new anneal] and a harder [4-5 loads] case over the expander ball.
give one a pinch between your fingers on the case mouth you should be able to flatten them just a bit.
I usually anneal mine then run them into the neck sizer twice [two strokes same setting] to bring the hardening up just a little bit and to even things up a titch.
you can feel the difference between a softer [new anneal] and a harder [4-5 loads] case over the expander ball.
Look good to me.
I twirl the case in my fingers til I can't take the heat then drop.
I think most people get the case way too hot. I like annealing in a darkened room to get the timing down. Lets me make sure the case isn't getting to a red heat.
I twirl the case in my fingers til I can't take the heat then drop.
I think most people get the case way too hot. I like annealing in a darkened room to get the timing down. Lets me make sure the case isn't getting to a red heat.
fiver
Well-Known Member
I look for the green flash.
that's right before a dull red and is the zinc just starting to gas off.
as soon as I see that I set the timer right there and start running cases.
it's close to 4 seconds on big cases and 3 on small cases but I'm using 2 pencil torches so a single would be about 2-3 seconds more.
that's right before a dull red and is the zinc just starting to gas off.
as soon as I see that I set the timer right there and start running cases.
it's close to 4 seconds on big cases and 3 on small cases but I'm using 2 pencil torches so a single would be about 2-3 seconds more.
JWFilips
Well-Known Member
I usually do the finger twirl like Brad....you know when to drop them in the water! and you get pretty constant.
+1 on neck sizing at least twice before using! Saves on a lot of wonky "first fired" loads ( trying to figure out why your well tested load is shooting strange)
+1 on neck sizing at least twice before using! Saves on a lot of wonky "first fired" loads ( trying to figure out why your well tested load is shooting strange)
fiver
Well-Known Member
I try to stay away from it too.
but then I wander into anyplace that sells brass and see it for .80 each and remember why I invested in the machine.
I can run a 30-06 through so many case changes I need to find oversized primers to keep the pockets lined out.
from 0-6 down to X57 then down to 7.65 argie and about 10 loads on each step.
if I keep the loads mild.
but then I wander into anyplace that sells brass and see it for .80 each and remember why I invested in the machine.
I can run a 30-06 through so many case changes I need to find oversized primers to keep the pockets lined out.
from 0-6 down to X57 then down to 7.65 argie and about 10 loads on each step.
if I keep the loads mild.
Josh
Well-Known Member
I have some 5.56 like that, first it was 5.56, then 222, then 7.62x40, then 300 blk. I have used nail polish to keep some primers in the case
Missionary
Well-Known Member
Good morning
Another "finger spinner" and torcher. A plus on the dim lit room. But like most everyone... I have better things to do it seems. Except for the $1 a case types. Those get special attention.
Another "finger spinner" and torcher. A plus on the dim lit room. But like most everyone... I have better things to do it seems. Except for the $1 a case types. Those get special attention.
Pistolero
Well-Known Member
I finger spin over a candle. Soots the case, but wipes off easily.
I do it for my Swiss rifle brass, otherwise I start losing cases to cracked necks about
every 3rd or 4th reload cycle. Don't bother with other brass, have enough and don't\
shoot it as much. Swiss rifle matches chew through the ammo, and with practice, and
only about 250 cases to start with, I work at keeping them from cracking.
I do it for my Swiss rifle brass, otherwise I start losing cases to cracked necks about
every 3rd or 4th reload cycle. Don't bother with other brass, have enough and don't\
shoot it as much. Swiss rifle matches chew through the ammo, and with practice, and
only about 250 cases to start with, I work at keeping them from cracking.
Ian
Notorious member
Use pure lead to keep from sticking. Set your pot temperature at no higher than 650, where the lead is just above molten. The surface tension is extremely high and the lead tends not to stick to anything. If there's soot on the case necks and shoulders, you're fine. I only perform a light "draw" with this method, not a full anneal at the lead temperature. Use the Vice-Grip method to see how much spring a 1 second dip vs. 2, 3, and so on takes out of the neck. When I get it where I want it, it's extremely repeatable and FAST. Dunk, count, throw in the quench bucket to halt the heat migration. Do three or four cases at a time, no problem. Uniform all the way around, no way to screw up the temperature if you dunk to the same depth and count the same each time.
Lead Pot uses a method I've been meaning to try: He fills a small dipper-casting furnace with fine sand and heats it to the desired temperature for dipping his case necks. That's probably the best solution anyone has come up with yet for speed, consistency, accuracy, and fool-proof annealing and drawing.
The Vise-Grip and micrometer method is by far the easiest way I've found to precisely test state of neck anneal.
Lead Pot uses a method I've been meaning to try: He fills a small dipper-casting furnace with fine sand and heats it to the desired temperature for dipping his case necks. That's probably the best solution anyone has come up with yet for speed, consistency, accuracy, and fool-proof annealing and drawing.
The Vise-Grip and micrometer method is by far the easiest way I've found to precisely test state of neck anneal.