L1A1Rocker
Active Member
With that idea in mind, I once tried to color some 300blk brass black with liver of sulfur. it was a horrible failure.
Powder Coat!
- Thread starter Ian
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With that idea in mind, I once tried to color some 300blk brass black with liver of sulfur. it was a horrible failure.
Ian
Notorious member
Why no, no you haven't.....Let me know how that works out for you...
Swage annealed WW/pure cores, powder coat, bake for 30 minutes in convection oven, water quench, age three weeks before shooting.
Ian
Notorious member
The term "game changer" is much over-used today and has lost its meaning to a large extent, but powder coating cast bullets is "game changing" if ever there was a term. I'd been watching on the sidelines for years as hundreds of people all over the internet worked out different methods of coating, argued about it, made videos, video responses, compared, tested, and finally got a few distinct techniques for applying it refined. Still, I wasn't interested because I had no need for it, until this pesky AR-45 came along. Now that I've learned how, I'll likely be powder coating bullets for a few other calibers just it's fun and I can. I don't see this replacing traditional lubed bullets for a lot of things, but powder coating is certainly a great equalizer.
Ian
Notorious member
The powder I got is Kawasaki Green from PowderBuyThePound and it reads "340°F for ten minutes" on the jar. Naturally that means to me 375 for 15 minutes...actually about 10-12 minutes past the point where it glosses over. Most of the polyesters take 400 degrees for 10 minutes, assuming the oven is pre-heated. The powder doesn't appear to scorch at up to 425° and isn't very picky about exact temp or cure time.
From reading others experiences, it looks like buying a high-quality powder first and foremost is the key to good results. It was pouring rain last night, my shop hygrometer was reading 100%, and I was shaking and baking batch after batch for hours with no issues.
From reading others experiences, it looks like buying a high-quality powder first and foremost is the key to good results. It was pouring rain last night, my shop hygrometer was reading 100%, and I was shaking and baking batch after batch for hours with no issues.
fiver
Well-Known Member
well it works wonderfully to be able to swage your own stuff.
putting a hollow in a nose, bumping up diameters of undersized molds,
adding a gas check, squaring up gas checks, changing shapes...
squishing the air out of cast stuff and seeing the results on target is worth the price of admission alone.
using those pesky free 40 short cases for something useful like a 44 mag or 45 colt is benefit enough.
the rest is just a bonus.
I just ordered a 45 set to augment my 44 set and 38 set and 308 set and 22 sets.
I'd like to find someone that could make a couple of dies to match some throat angles, that would be a super huge bonus and pay off huge benefits.
putting a hollow in a nose, bumping up diameters of undersized molds,
adding a gas check, squaring up gas checks, changing shapes...
squishing the air out of cast stuff and seeing the results on target is worth the price of admission alone.
using those pesky free 40 short cases for something useful like a 44 mag or 45 colt is benefit enough.
the rest is just a bonus.
I just ordered a 45 set to augment my 44 set and 38 set and 308 set and 22 sets.
I'd like to find someone that could make a couple of dies to match some throat angles, that would be a super huge bonus and pay off huge benefits.
Ian
Notorious member
Maybe one day. Swaging would sure be neat, but I still haven't had my fill of paper patching yet, lots more to explore there. Brad made me a really nice die for .30 caliber cores, and I already have the moulds. The 190-grainer I have needs a cup point and it would be a bambi exterminator loping along at about 2500 fps.
Me too....
L1A1Rocker
Active Member
Why yes, he certainly didDidn't you tell me that about powder coating?
fiver
Well-Known Member
paper patching?
don't you need a really nice perfectly shaped core for that?
one without air pockets and diameters that match the lands + .001.
ever wonder how a 1-3% antimonial core with a short truncated cone nose shape with no voids in it would handle 2700 fps with 2 wraps of 25% cotton bond... yeah?
Dang now I gotta go measure a couple of things.
don't you need a really nice perfectly shaped core for that?
one without air pockets and diameters that match the lands + .001.
ever wonder how a 1-3% antimonial core with a short truncated cone nose shape with no voids in it would handle 2700 fps with 2 wraps of 25% cotton bond... yeah?
Dang now I gotta go measure a couple of things.
Pistolero
Well-Known Member
Ian,
Did you ever see any of the dreaded, illegal now in many places, and long dead, KTW Teflon coated bronze
rounds?
IIRC, your ammo is nearly a match for those in color and shape. And slick..... now is this going to run afoul
of the various stupid laws on "specially coated bullets".
Bill
Did you ever see any of the dreaded, illegal now in many places, and long dead, KTW Teflon coated bronze
rounds?
IIRC, your ammo is nearly a match for those in color and shape. And slick..... now is this going to run afoul
of the various stupid laws on "specially coated bullets".
Bill
yodogsandman
Well-Known Member
Wonder if a PC'd bullet that was swaged to final dimensions would be superior for accuracy....hmmm.
waco
Springfield, Oregon
I've played around with it off and on for a couple years now with a few calibers. It works well for me with my Lee 120 TC 9mm mold that drops bullets a little too small. Harbor freight red and the airsoft BB method is what I use as well. Very easy to do. One nice thing about it is you can coat and bake 2000 bullets and then just throw them in a jar and forget about them. No lube sticking to each other or melting off. 9mm 38spl 45acp. Works well.
Ian
Notorious member
Those look good, Walter! I'm starting to like powder coating for a lot of reasons, especially the problems it can solve. There are quite a few moulds in the cabinet that I wish I hadn't lapped out now, and a whole mess of .002" or worse undersized Lymans that I wish I hadn't got rid of. Oh, well.