powder coating

fiver

Well-Known Member
all right guy's.

I have decided I am going to powder coat all of my bullets from now on.
now when none of them chambers or fit's through my sizer dies I am going to come here and complain and whine until you all fix my problems.
now remember I only use older molds combined with mixed alloy's that pour the nose to an engraving fit, they are already big enough to be sized down to fit my guns, or are custom molds that scuff seat into the ball seat area when chambered.
so there is no way I am responsible for adding another .002 to any of their diameters.
I just wanted to give everyone a heads up that, no matter what you say or how many pictures are posted in the thread, I'm not going to do any of the things you suggest.
mostly because I might buy another pistol/rifle/revolver in the future, and I don't want this ammo to work in that gun either.
 

Stonecrusher

Active Member
You know, I was thinking of doing the exact same thing myself. You have my complete and total support. If you seem to be wavering in the face of actual logic I will remind you of your first post in this thread.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Buy Lyman, the extra .002 will be a good thing. Just sayin....
 

John

Active Member
I have some great powder made from no-see-um scat that is guaranteed to tighten groups, reduce leading, solve the national debt and reveal the secrets of the warren report. It is fine and clear, comes in a old lube groove bag and is designed to be sprinkled over existing lubed bullets. For only 10,000 drachma I will throw some of the powder your way and reveal the secrets of harvesting no-see-um scat and how to cultivate them in your own backyard.
 

Ian

Notorious member
And we'll be here (especially those of us who've only seen it done on utoob) to bombard you with as many irrelevant and useless suggestions as you can fail to follow.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
If I powder coat can I shoot gas check designs without a check?
 

462

California's Central Coast Amid The Insanity
Don't do it, fiver! :eek:
I'm begging, please don't make me quit this site, too. ;)
 

Dusty Bannister

Well-Known Member
I think I have an idea where this came from and where it is headed, and it ain't gonna be pretty. In addition to the powder coating, be sure to use the Lee terms to describe the Lyman bullet you have molded, and only refer to diameter and weight in case there are three different nose forms for the same diameter and weight. And if it is a RN, be sure to keep it a secret if it is a 1R or 2R. That is just trivia best omitted from the data altogether.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
It's not hard to separate the factual information from the ignorant information. PC is a fantastic way to provide excellent lubrication (if that's what you want to call it) for most all cast, if not all, bullets. I've gone the route of PC'n my bullets and I love it; it's easy ( a 6th grader can follow the directions, maybe even a 4th grader); very economical and there's no messy, goopy slime to clean up. Mine shoot great and bullseye shooting is a blast. 1R or 2R, doesn't make any difference they all PC. I like the Silver color in use now.
 

Ian

Notorious member
It's just one more tool in the box. I will say that powder coat is truly a "game changer" for those of us shooting a high volume of plain-based, cast bullets through suppressors, and it enables a little bump in accurate velocity when using softer alloys, or maintaining the status quo when dropping 3-4 bhn points from what would otherwise be optimal for groups without the coating.

But it ain't magic, and it ain't he holy grail, and it does bring its own particular set of challenges and limitations. I see a lot of discussion about getting the coating ON the bullet, and that's the easy part. The challenging and interesting part is how the coating (with or without traditional lube) affects the whole dynamic of the system, how the bullet launches, bullet tension, sizing requirements, alloy requirements, burn curve of the powder, C.O.R.E, etc. and how we can optimize the system to capitalize on the strengths the coatings offer. It's a whole different ball game than either traditional lubricated cast bullets or jacketed bullets.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
just to be clear I do powder coat some stuff.
it is very useful in some instances, and totally unnecessary in others.
it is a total waste of my time in most situations, but a lifesaver and well worth the effort of doing it right in others. [just like tumble lubing]
maybe I'm an anal moron about stuff sometimes [shrug] but I seem to get results.

I just thought I'd start a little tongue in cheek thread to have some fun with it.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I just wanted to write "game changer" and it actually mean something, for once, instead of referring to the latest version of the umpteen-dozen ways to attach a basic sling to a basic AR-15, or to tactical nail polish.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
it does add a whole new element to home made projectiles.
it's like a middle ground between lube and an actual jacket.
I call it a coating because it still is a naked lead bullet underneath and the same rules still apply.
if you follow the rules of naked lead, you can then step out of the lead box and do some wonderful things with it.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
I'm struggling with the concept of powder coated PB 405-535 gr in a 45-70 , 45 ACP/S&W/Colts working at TD to +P levels .
Then there's having to GC PC 22s and size them anyway .......

IDK , maybe if you shoot a zillion rounds and you can coat 500-2000 at a time every 35-40 min , then sure I can see it .

I'm yet to see it as a be all for anything but I build every load too poke a hole in Bambi , Porky or Bossie efficiently and humanly .
If I have to trade my 75/25 WW-l/20 +CU for 60/40 WW/lino to keep the target/chronograph numbers it ain't happening . Old fashioned , set in my ways , .......maybe but I don't shoot a zillion rounds a month .
 

Ian

Notorious member
Just add a little more powder to make up for the lost FPS. PC stretches out the burn curve by reducing engraving resistance. You can use a softer alloy at the same speed with PC, which is why I use it for my .35 Remington hunting loads...running 12 bhn with almost no tin @2100 fps, with a gas check.
 

Ian

Notorious member
400°F Polyester TGIC, 50/50 alloy, bake for 25 minutes total, water drop, gas check, size .3095", age a month, shoot to 2200 fps. Add one band of lube for up to 2450 or else the es/sd get pretty stupid.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
I've been using the same stuff and alloy however I still bake for 40 min water drop and size to .309". I don't think I've run over 1600 fps with what I load + I roll them around in BLL for good measure.